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significant repeats (Read 4237479 times)

andy_e

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#1725 Re: significant repeats
January 03, 2011, 09:40:46 pm
Was it Katz?

Johnny Brown

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#1726 Re: significant repeats
January 03, 2011, 09:58:21 pm
Wow, impressive, I thought it was reachy!

Stubbs

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#1727 Re: significant repeats
January 03, 2011, 10:03:11 pm
Leo Sayer fro power!

uptown

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#1728 Re: significant repeats
January 04, 2011, 12:20:01 pm
 :thumbsup: Great effort from Mark. What a start to the new year!

blacky

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#1729 Re: significant repeats
January 04, 2011, 06:30:51 pm
It was indeed Mr Katz.
It's not that reachy but he did have to lay one on for the pocket, which is intimidating as hell for everyone involved his feet were about 5-6m up at that point. One fail on that move saw him nearly miss the mats altogether  :o but he  manned right up and finished the job after a quick brush of the holds  8)
Was awesome to see him get it ticked!
« Last Edit: January 04, 2011, 06:37:13 pm by blacky »

c.j.d.

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#1730 Re: significant repeats
January 04, 2011, 09:26:29 pm
Nice one Katzy.  Good to see the little man jump.

Adam Lincoln

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#1731 Re: significant repeats
January 09, 2011, 08:03:27 pm
Seen as though no one else has mentioned it yet.
Paul Robinson repeated the ace today. Also did Brad Pit and Deliverance.

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#1732 Re: significant repeats
January 09, 2011, 08:32:28 pm
 :bounce: :bow: Wow, wish my occasional day trips to the peak were that successful...

Jim

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#1733 Re: significant repeats
January 09, 2011, 09:53:24 pm
shut down on voyager then

Adam Lincoln

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#1734 Re: significant repeats
January 09, 2011, 09:56:30 pm
shut down on voyager then

I know. Punt!

robertostallioni

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#1735 Re: significant repeats
January 09, 2011, 09:57:18 pm
Must have missed Lagers Voyager Vid.  :shrug:

c.j.d.

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#1736 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2011, 11:26:53 am
Is he coming to Wales, or is he another one that thinks Stanage is the UK (I take it we are talking about the same Paul Robinson)?

Johnny Brown

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#1737 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2011, 11:33:16 am
Why would he go to Wales? I thought everything had melted now?

Jim

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#1738 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2011, 11:46:44 am
for hard problems?

pete b

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#1739 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2011, 12:13:22 pm
According to his blog, Paul went to the peak just for a day. He went to the Castle in London too. Shame he didn't go to the lakes to try something very hard.

nash1

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#1740 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2011, 03:16:37 pm
The Ace in 40 mins as well as Giza, Deliverance and Brad Pitt.
Not a bad day trip at all...

Imagine if him, Woods and DG had an extended trip like the other Team America did, would be interesting.

Paul B

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#1741 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2011, 03:21:58 pm
Is he coming to Wales, or is he another one that thinks Stanage is the UK (I take it we are talking about the same Paul Robinson)?

The way it was reported elswhere suggested he was over to see his families g/f's whatever in London and had allowed for the train journey and a 6 hour window to get things done.

Its seriously impressive.

Up until now everytime I read about a F8c there's a nagging doubt at the back of my mind to whether it really can be that hard. Quick ascents of test pieces like the ace really put things into perspective.

Bonjoy

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#1742 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2011, 03:33:19 pm

Imagine if him, Woods and DG had an extended trip like the other Team America did, would be interesting.
DG did have quite an extended stay in Sheff a year or two back and didn't manage The Ace despite a fair amount of effort. To be fair I have heard mutterings that the LH sloper/crimp has eroded a bit and is now better than it used to be and DG would have been trying it before the change.

peewee

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#1743 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2011, 04:08:34 pm
I saw Paul do The Ace yesterday, he made it look very easy. Friction was pucker at Stanage yesterday aswell.

Stubbs

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#1744 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2011, 04:09:52 pm
DG did have quite an extended stay in Sheff a year or two back ...

Wasn't it very wet when he was here and he didn't actually get to do that much climbing?  It's probably also worth bearing in mind that he was in the middle of a lecture tour, rather than in the middle of a climbing trip!

Bonjoy

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#1745 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2011, 04:14:01 pm
Yes the weather was mostly log, but he did have a number of sessions on The Ace around the same time Ryan did it I think, so not totally log conditions throughout. I'm not dissing him or owt...

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#1746 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2011, 04:24:19 pm
I'm with Bonjoy, Dave Graham's shit. He failed on Hubble too the punter!

Are Robinson's ascents actually classed as valid though? He looks as if he weighs less than Bennett and surely that's just cheating?

Stubbs

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#1747 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2011, 04:48:13 pm
Would that logic not invalidate most of your ascents back in the day Mr Sharpe? We all know everyone was just starved rather than strong in the 90's   ;D ;D

DG is my hero, I'll fight you all!

Jaspersharpe

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#1748 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2011, 04:54:44 pm
I was never less than about 10 1/2 stone when climbing at my best and I never dieted. So ner.

Johnny Brown

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#1749 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2011, 05:00:55 pm
Quote
DG did have quite an extended stay in Sheff a year or two back and didn't manage The Ace despite a fair amount of effort. To be fair I have heard mutterings that the LH sloper/crimp has eroded a bit and is now better than it used to be and DG would have been trying it before the change.

I think I may be the originator of this story. When I tried it in March '09 I noticed that it seemed a crystal or two crumbled out of the right hand end of the LH crimp, making it more positive for your index finger. That is indeed after DG's visit in, I think Oct '08, but it didn't look fresh though so its possible any change pre-dated his trip. Or it may have been entirely my poor recall of its prior state and the divot may been there all along...

Either way its academic as we had exactly this discussion at the crag and P-Rob showed us how he didn't use it anyway - he preferred taking the hold further left where it's more uniform.

 

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