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significant repeats (Read 5058124 times)

Wood FT

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#12200 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2024, 08:33:41 pm
What a classic

j-ho

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#12201 Re: significant repeats
October 21, 2024, 03:16:08 pm
Bosi has done Spots of Time

lukeyboy

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#12202 Re: significant repeats
October 21, 2024, 03:58:04 pm
Thread dedicated to his exploits here

edshakey

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#12203 Re: significant repeats
October 22, 2024, 11:42:52 am
Hannes van Duysen has done Es Pontas 9a+

remus

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#12204 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2024, 04:07:52 pm
Hannes van Duysen has done Es Pontas 9a+

Mejdi Schlack joining in the fun too with an ascent yesterday.

https://www.instagram.com/p/DBgjXo8N2NR/

edshakey

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#12205 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2024, 05:47:57 pm
Might be the perfect route for new school combined comp climbers!

Think Hannes is still missing on the CH page, remus

remus

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#12206 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2024, 06:19:25 pm
Think Hannes is still missing on the CH page, remus

Thanks, just added his ascent in. While doing so I spotted that Leo Favot has also done Es Pontas very recently! https://www.instagram.com/p/DAwEwYNNY_9/

Bloody trade route. Three ascents in as many weeks!

remus

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#12207 Re: significant repeats
October 24, 2024, 06:24:44 pm
Bumper day today. Melina Costanza has done Green in the Face 8B on her second try, and sounds like she was very close on the flash. World class stuff.

https://www.instagram.com/p/DBgyKUFv2EU/

remus

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#12208 Re: significant repeats
October 30, 2024, 06:34:52 am
Babsi Zangerl had just done Magic Line 8c+ trad according to her Instagram stories.

Kingy

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#12209 Re: significant repeats
October 30, 2024, 07:52:56 am
Nice! Isn't this 8c though? Why are UKC saying its 8c+? (Im aware of whats already been said upthread).

teestub

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#12210 Re: significant repeats
October 30, 2024, 08:01:49 am
Nice! Isn't this 8c though? Why are UKC saying its 8c+? (Im aware of whats already been said upthread).

Nice. Wasn't 8c+ being touted for this by recent repeaters? I know Ron gave it 8c in the 90s but some feet have broken since then

You only seem to be arguing with yourself 😂

Kingy

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#12211 Re: significant repeats
October 30, 2024, 08:08:25 am
No biggie, just curious as to why the grade keeps changing.

Wil

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#12212 Re: significant repeats
October 30, 2024, 08:14:48 am

Nice! Isn't this 8c though? Why are UKC saying its 8c+? (Im aware of whats already been said upthread).

Nice. Wasn't 8c+ being touted for this by recent repeaters? I know Ron gave it 8c in the 90s but some feet have broken since then

Ron did it on preplaced gear at 8c, considered 8c+ to place it on lead.

remus

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#12213 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2024, 07:43:00 am
Solly kd has repeated Foundation's Edge 8C in Switzerland.

Franco

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#12214 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2024, 02:19:44 pm


Babsi was really close to sending magic line last autumn (got through the crux), but then I broke off the crux foothold by trying to edge too much, which turned quite a good egyptiany bridge into a desperate smedge. 4 of us were trying it at the time and all able to do the original crux, only Babsi and Brent could do it afterwards. They took it quite well considering. I think it was already soft 8c+ and the loss of that foot added a lot.

It's not the greatest rock ever,  so will get harder and harder as time goes on I'd think.

remus

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#12215 Re: significant repeats
November 06, 2024, 04:03:22 pm
The UK's most under-cover female wad Prudence Morgan-Wood has redpointed Espacío Tiempo 8c at Sella in Spain for her first of the grade. She's the 10th British woman to climb 8c or harder.

remus

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#12216 Re: significant repeats
November 06, 2024, 06:52:42 pm
Could have missed an ascent, but looks like Fred Nicole's 8C pocket problem Le Boa has had a second ascent from Patrick Vonbrül. Had a bit of attention form Giuliano Cameroni previously so don't expect it's a pushover.

Some footage of the man himself doing the start (about 8B to here apparently).

https://youtu.be/dQW3v7-pYXk?t=302

edshakey

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#12217 Re: significant repeats
November 06, 2024, 07:16:46 pm
If that section is 8B, the rest must be still quite hard right, 8A+ ish? Does it keep traversing?

remus

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#12218 Re: significant repeats
November 06, 2024, 07:19:00 pm
Yeah sounds like the rest of it is still pretty tricky

Quote
It is a sit down start on a big snake like looking structure, which also gives the name to the problem. Some powerful moves on pockets underclings that bring you to a tricky traverse with more pockets and a finish with long moves into a big flake. It ends in another problem called Mosaik, rated V11 or 8A. The first four moves are by far the hardest, but the last ten are quite delicate and bring a great dimension to the line.

remus

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#12219 Re: significant repeats
November 07, 2024, 08:03:01 pm
Jacopo Larcher joined the Magic Line 8c+ send train yesterday. Seventh ascent I think.

remus

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#12220 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2024, 12:23:26 pm
Could have missed an ascent, but looks like Fred Nicole's 8C pocket problem Le Boa has had a second ascent from Patrick Vonbrül. Had a bit of attention form Giuliano Cameroni previously so don't expect it's a pushover.

Some footage of the man himself doing the start (about 8B to here apparently).

https://youtu.be/dQW3v7-pYXk?t=302

Correction: Fabian Buhl made the second ascent in 2017.

https://www.lacrux.com/en/bouldern/fabian-buhl-repeats-first-the-8c-boulder-le-boa/

edshakey

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#12221 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2024, 03:17:44 pm
All hail blue name remus :bow:

teestub

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#12222 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2024, 04:57:44 pm
From her insta story, looks like Michaela Kiersch has done Dreamtime 💪

remus

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#12223 Re: significant repeats
November 09, 2024, 06:24:50 pm
From her insta story, looks like Michaela Kiersch has done Dreamtime 💪

What a beast! She's been absolutely smashing it recently, bit of a new wave coming through with her, Katie Lamb, Janja, Brooke etc. coming through.

remus

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#12224 Re: significant repeats
November 10, 2024, 02:54:43 pm
Bombardino 9a+ fourth go for Laura Rogora!

 

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