She was tied in all the way. Doing the match off the intermediate was pretty dismaying.
The first roof:Five moves lead to a reach-through from two sloping edges, either footless or with a really high Egyptian. I chose to do it footless and for the first 10 days failed because it was too hot. I reckon this is the hardest section, about 8a boulder.The dyno:The move that made the route famous, because itís spectacular: a complete cut-loose dyno to a hold about two meters higher. Itís difficult mentally and requires good coordination, but easy compared to the previous move. I reckon 7a+ boulder.The dyno from the monodoigt:The other hard move: dyno from a left-foot smear and first joint rounded monodoigt to a rounded hold. 8a boulder.The final roof:Eight easy moves compared to the rest of the route, but youíre very tired at this point. I told myself that it was impossible to fall from these last moves. This wasnít the case.
I thought the thing with Hugh was that it was a series of massive dynos and it was said at the time that you needed to be FR size to do the route.
FR is about 5'9.
Video of repeat here.
Patter did indeed do it off this hold but remember the hold above (the better one) didn't used to be better. You could only do a 2 finger crimp on the spike as a gaston. Something fell off making it a bigger meaning you can now use 4 fingers and a thumb on the spike.
Pardon my ignorance. Is Hugh artificial?
When Rouhling returned from college in 1993 he was sick of the technical endurance style that had made French sport climbing famous. Tired of using his feet, he sought out — or created — routes at Eaux Claires that didn’t require them. The first was Hugh, a sixty-foot double-overhanging bulge (with the graffito “HUG” painted in four-foot-tall letters at its base). After his first ascent he felt that he had made the route too easy, so he filled in some holds, made others worse, and then climbed the route again, resulting in some incredible dynamic moves — and his most heavy-handed manufacturing job. He rated Hugh 9a (5.14d), at a time when there were two or three other 9a’s in the world.
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