Quote from: Wellsy on November 22, 2023, 09:47:10 amI saw that Jimmy Webb repeated an 8C called Equanimity, which has been touted as "the hardest technical boulder in the world"Makes me think about the grading system and how we use it re. Technique, Strength etcWeird phrase. Harder than Livin' Large, for example? Even Burden of Dreams must be highly technical, otherwise Yves Gravelle and Allison Vest should book the next flight to Finland to show Aidan Roberts and Simone Lorenzi how it's done.
I saw that Jimmy Webb repeated an 8C called Equanimity, which has been touted as "the hardest technical boulder in the world"Makes me think about the grading system and how we use it re. Technique, Strength etc
It is a slightly odd turn of phrase, but I think it makes sense. If i'd never seen anyone on burden I reckon I could walk up to it and tell you roughly how it'd climb (missing out lots of the details obviously). I guess it'd be hard to do that on Equanimity.
I'm confused by the confusion here. Some problems you fall off and feel too weak, some you fall off and feel too shit. The more a problem falls into the latter box the more technical it is, surely?
There is also a huge difference between having strong fingers---as in being able to pull on terrible holds, and having strong fingers---as in being able to demonstrate high force on uniform wooden edges. They are not the same. If I could have strong fingers, I know in which sense I'd rather have them.
are those people falling of Burden of Dreams doing so because they are too weak or not skilled enough in that style? I can't see it being the former.
The problem is surely that by that logic every hard problem could be characterised as technical, because they all involve 'hard transitions between complex positions,' which is a word salady way of saying 'the climbing is hard.'
I do agree that defining what is "a technical boulder" or "a power boulder" is very vague. But we all know roughly what is meant.
Is that not kinda true though
Quote from: Wellsy on November 22, 2023, 02:50:21 pmIs that not kinda true thoughWell kind of, but most of the time we all know what the difference is as Barrows says. It seems counter productive to break down a pretty useful, on the whole, method of categorisation and make it essentially meaningless. Much like how its counterproductive to break down long accepted ethical practices/ concepts of what makes a problem or route good
I clearly lean slightly more towards seeing failure as primarily a technical issue in more instances.