UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 5030887 times)

ferret

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 558
  • Karma: +44/-4
#11125 Re: significant repeats
June 13, 2023, 11:18:26 pm
Just so we don’t all become terrified of saying anything for fear of offending I feel duty bound to point out that:
Asking a reasonable question does not equal making a fuss.

Not making a fuss no, and wasnt having a go at Jim. Just think we need to move away from FFA’s being a thing.

I personally disagree, women have physical and social differences to men and standards are different as a result. Seems natural to me to celebrate female achievements. Can't see any difference between a significant female ascent and a significant female time in a running race. IMO is like saying a womens world record 100m isn't important because a man ran it faster.

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3139
  • Karma: +173/-4
#11126 Re: significant repeats
June 13, 2023, 11:26:03 pm
I kind of have a foot in both camps on it. I can see why some see it as unnecessary, and many do, women and men. That said some routes seem to be holding out from a female ascent a lot longer than others (True North has taken a lot longer than eg Bat Route, to have a Yorkshire comparison) and that seems worthy of comment to me, even if only out of interest rather than denoting anything significant.

Teaboy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1206
  • Karma: +73/-2
#11127 Re: significant repeats
June 13, 2023, 11:48:35 pm
Well now I’m not sure what I’m supposed to do with the news that Rachel Pearce has repeated Nightmayer on the Cromlech.

Fultonius

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4525
  • Karma: +155/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#11128 Re: significant repeats
June 14, 2023, 07:45:22 am
No doubt In full summer sun too? She's a rip this recently. Chapeau.

andy moles

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 712
  • Karma: +55/-1
#11129 Re: significant repeats
June 14, 2023, 08:34:14 am
Late evening shade I believe. Still very warm though!

sherlock

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 528
  • Karma: +24/-0
#11130 Re: significant repeats
June 14, 2023, 12:01:43 pm
Nice! First female ascent?

Yes. Not sure why people make a fuss about first female ascent. In this day and age it shouldn't matter. This ascent was quicker than most men have done it as it happens.
No, you're right of course, it shouldn't matter but FWIW I just asked my OH and she likes to hear inspiring ascents by other women so yeah keep reporting them.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8792
  • Karma: +651/-18
  • insect overlord #1
#11131 Re: significant repeats
June 14, 2023, 12:08:07 pm
Well now I’m not sure what I’m supposed to do with the news that Rachel Pearce has repeated Nightmayer on the Cromlech.

Fret not - Emma Twyford did it 5 years ago

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29603
  • Karma: +643/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#11132 Re: significant repeats
June 14, 2023, 12:49:03 pm
So, a significant repeat then!

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3085
  • Karma: +354/-2
#11133 Re: significant repeats
June 14, 2023, 05:16:15 pm
Impressive. I think Rachel’s hardest sport RP is 8b which isn’t a huge margin for a route like this.

andy moles

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 712
  • Karma: +55/-1
#11134 Re: significant repeats
June 14, 2023, 05:29:50 pm
Impressive. I think Rachel’s hardest sport RP is 8b which isn’t a huge margin for a route like this.

I think she could RP harder if she picked the right route and put time into it, she seems to favour climbing lots of routes rather than maxing out.

remus

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3163
  • Karma: +168/-1
#11135 Re: significant repeats
June 14, 2023, 05:59:56 pm
Impressive. I think Rachel’s hardest sport RP is 8b which isn’t a huge margin for a route like this.

I noticed on her UKC logbook she mentioned finding a white tri cam that protects the end, so maybe she didn't feel like she needed so much margin? Still, we're talking 8a climbing on spicy gear (white tri cams don't count as good gear in my view  :lol:). Hard core.

remus

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3163
  • Karma: +168/-1
#11136 Re: significant repeats
June 19, 2023, 09:08:11 pm
Isabelle Faus climbed a boulder called Spidey 8B+ back in March

remus

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3163
  • Karma: +168/-1
#11137 Re: significant repeats
July 03, 2023, 07:09:55 pm
Jonny Kydd has made the second ascent of The World is Yours (8C) at Biblins Cave. 97 laps on WADzilla (8B)!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CuPm7_jsgK1/

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2886
  • Karma: +138/-3
#11138 Re: significant repeats
July 03, 2023, 09:09:38 pm
110+ sessions....absolutely mind blowing.

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3469
  • Karma: +530/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#11139 Re: significant repeats
July 03, 2023, 10:41:02 pm
110+ sessions....absolutely mind blowing.

Have you ever read Power Club?

crimpinainteasy

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 123
  • Karma: +2/-0
#11140 Re: significant repeats
July 04, 2023, 02:47:06 pm
Yeah that's the thing. Bouin is very weak for his grade (has never done 8C boulder afaik, except for that long thing at Toit d’Orsay) and has to find a lot of tricks to avoid powerful moves. Absolutely mind-blowing endurance though.

I'm doubtful of the veracity of the claim that Bouin is weak for the grade. Didn't people claim the same thing about Stefano Ghisolfi before he tried Burden?   :worms:

jakaitch

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 112
  • Karma: +6/-1
#11141 Re: significant repeats
July 05, 2023, 09:42:37 am
I guess it's just an evidence based thing (as you said) as far as I'm aware Bouin hasn't put in time on harder boulders!

remus

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3163
  • Karma: +168/-1
#11142 Re: significant repeats
July 06, 2023, 08:39:05 am
Vadim Timonov has contonued his recent run of form by flashing Cosmic Artifact 8B+ in South Africa. This adds his name to the pretty exclusive list of 8B+ flashers https://climbing-history.org/list/20/hard-boulder-problem-flashes

remus

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3163
  • Karma: +168/-1
#11143 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2023, 09:16:18 am
Rhos Frugtniet (onsighted that spelling :strongbench:) did Full on Action 8b+ at Kilnsey yesterday.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13720
  • Karma: +695/-68
  • Whut
#11144 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2023, 09:28:45 am
(onsighted that spelling :strongbench:)
That deserves to get in a Significant something thread, but I'm not sure which one....

remus

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3163
  • Karma: +168/-1
#11145 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2023, 10:45:33 am
Significant list related pedantry?

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13720
  • Karma: +695/-68
  • Whut
#11146 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2023, 06:47:41 pm
I don't think that topic exists yet, but when it does, you'll win it straight away  ;D

ferret

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 558
  • Karma: +44/-4
#11147 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2023, 10:55:12 pm
(onsighted that spelling :strongbench:)

We really need to agree on the ethics here.
Onsight, only ever heard it verbally,
Flash, spelled it right first time with some knowledge. A degree of honesty is required as it could range from some bloke down the pub told you how to spell it 3 years ago but you couldn't remember much to your girlfriend told you repeatedly how to spell and typed it out in front of you right before you typed it yourself.
Redpoint, copy and pasted from google

edshakey

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 649
  • Karma: +47/-0
#11148 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2023, 09:44:52 pm
Appears that Jacopo Larcher led Parthian Shot recently, sounds like it was filmed too?

And he says another hold broke, making the start a bit more powerful

remus

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3163
  • Karma: +168/-1
#11149 Re: significant repeats
July 10, 2023, 07:55:28 am
Apparently the flake is a bit more broken since Bransby's re-ascent, too. Not sure exactly what the gear situation is these days but can't imagine it's very confidence inspiring!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal