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significant repeats (Read 4383650 times)

jwi

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#11100 Re: significant repeats
June 07, 2023, 05:07:59 pm
Seb has done Bibliographie
https://www.instagram.com/p/CtMYJySrClO/?igshid=MmJiY2I4NDBkZg==
What a machine. On a quest to climb all the routes.

remus

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#11101 Re: significant repeats
June 07, 2023, 07:17:47 pm
What a hero. For me I think he has surpassed Ondra as the top sport climber at the moment.

Duma

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#11102 Re: significant repeats
June 07, 2023, 08:52:29 pm
Just needs a few onsights and there'd be no question

Duncan campbell

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#11103 Re: significant repeats
June 07, 2023, 08:55:43 pm
Yeah that’s the thing though… what has he onsighted/flashed? Does he have Ondra’s breadth of style?

grimer

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#11104 Re: significant repeats
June 07, 2023, 09:38:41 pm
in will bosi's jam crack he gave an interesting insight to his climbing, saying SB was on a route, trying the moves, and barely being able to work them. The pulled the rope and fired off the route first go.

jwi

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#11105 Re: significant repeats
June 07, 2023, 10:09:04 pm
Yeah that's the thing. Bouin is very weak for his grade (has never done 8C boulder afaik, except for that long thing at Toit d’Orsay) and has to find a lot of tricks to avoid powerful moves. Absolutely mind-blowing endurance though.

remus

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#11106 Re: significant repeats
June 07, 2023, 10:37:19 pm
I wonder how much of that is for a lack of trying? Stefano hasn't bouldered harder than 8B+ as far as I know, but he's applied himself to burden and seems to be making rapid progress.

abarro81

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#11107 Re: significant repeats
June 08, 2023, 08:24:20 am
Yeah that’s the thing though… what has he onsighted/flashed? Does he have Ondra’s breadth of style?

I'm not aware of him having really onsighted or flashed anything that hard (I'm thinking 8c+ and up), but maybe jwi knows better? Certainly nothing like Ondra in that department... Which keeps Ondra in top spot IMO

Teaboy

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#11108 Re: significant repeats
June 08, 2023, 09:47:54 am
….not to mention Ondra’s comp record and Dawn Wall. Daft as it is to compare, I’d say his record is head and shoulders above other climbers I’d say with Megos second but that picture could well change in the next year.

Wellsy

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#11109 Re: significant repeats
June 08, 2023, 09:54:32 am
I'd love to see Ondra on BoD tbh

Duma

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#11110 Re: significant repeats
June 08, 2023, 10:04:44 am
What a hero. For me I think he has surpassed Ondra as the top sport climber at the moment.
the discussion wasn't about about comps or big walls, or all round ability.

Sport climbing on the other hand, the answer depends on how you weight RP vs OS, since Seb's clearly the best redpointer currently.

Teaboy

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#11111 Re: significant repeats
June 08, 2023, 10:15:29 am
Fair point. Sport climbing is made up of two disciplines, first go up and redpoints. They have similar records on redpoints and Ondea has far the better record of on-sights and flashes. 

Duncan campbell

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#11112 Re: significant repeats
June 08, 2023, 12:16:05 pm
I'd love to see Ondra on BoD tbh

Me too! Tbh I wish he’d sack the olympics off and refocus on outdoor stuff as I reckon he has a lot more to give and it would be tragic for him to waste his best years focusing on the olympics. Obviously this is all just my opinion.

Would be ace to see him get up a 9A boulder. Would be interesting to see how he found it…

Would also like to see him on DNA and Bibliography…

remus

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#11113 Re: significant repeats
June 08, 2023, 12:35:23 pm
Me too! Tbh I wish he’d sack the olympics off and refocus on outdoor stuff as I reckon he has a lot more to give and it would be tragic for him to waste his best years focusing on the olympics. Obviously this is all just my opinion.

Agreed. I'd be surprised if he did well in the 2024 olympics given the depth of the field these days, though obviously I wouldn't write him off either.

Would also like to see him on DNA

It'd be ace if he put some time in to trying to repeat some of Seb's other unrepeated offerings too, it feels like Seb's list of things awaiting a repeat is getting pretty long now and (from my punter standpoint) a lot of them would seem to fit Adam's style (knee bars, tricks etc.)

jwi

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#11114 Re: significant repeats
June 08, 2023, 12:42:03 pm
I'd love to see Ondra on BoD tbh

If I were able to climb 9A I would much prefer to try Soudain Seul

Aussiegav

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#11115 Re: significant repeats
June 08, 2023, 12:46:41 pm
Anyone know/seen the footage of Excalibur?
I think Silence could get a repeat by Stefano based on his current form

jakaitch

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#11116 Re: significant repeats
June 09, 2023, 12:23:25 pm
Looks like someones repeated Orrin Coley's 8C at Forest Rock given his IG story

remus

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#11117 Re: significant repeats
June 09, 2023, 02:31:58 pm
Looks like someones repeated Orrin Coley's 8C at Forest Rock given his IG story

Yer man Bosi

jakaitch

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#11118 Re: significant repeats
June 09, 2023, 02:49:12 pm
Looks like someones repeated Orrin Coley's 8C at Forest Rock given his IG story

Yer man Bosi

Ah, of course!

Adam Lincoln

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#11119 Re: significant repeats
June 13, 2023, 06:40:24 pm
Anna Wild just did True North.

Not prime connies either!

spidermonkey09

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#11120 Re: significant repeats
June 13, 2023, 06:41:26 pm
Nice! First female ascent?

Adam Lincoln

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#11121 Re: significant repeats
June 13, 2023, 09:09:46 pm
Nice! First female ascent?

Yes. Not sure why people make a fuss about first female ascent. In this day and age it shouldn't matter. This ascent was quicker than most men have done it as it happens.

nik at work

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#11122 Re: significant repeats
June 13, 2023, 09:22:12 pm
Just so we don’t all become terrified of saying anything for fear of offending I feel duty bound to point out that:
Asking a reasonable question does not equal making a fuss.

Adam Lincoln

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#11123 Re: significant repeats
June 13, 2023, 09:28:53 pm
Just so we don’t all become terrified of saying anything for fear of offending I feel duty bound to point out that:
Asking a reasonable question does not equal making a fuss.

Not making a fuss no, and wasnt having a go at Jim. Just think we need to move away from FFA’s being a thing.

dunnyg

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#11124 Re: significant repeats
June 13, 2023, 10:00:26 pm
Not sure you should be the one making the call on that.  :off:

 

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