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significant repeats (Read 4238094 times)

SA Chris

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#10900 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 10:25:37 am
What I can't abide is the reporting that he's "got" the ascent rather than made the ascent/done the climb.

Got vs Sent vs Bagged. Which annoys you more?

Wellsy

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#10901 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 10:34:17 am
I'm trying to build up the image of UKB's perfect climber

-Doesn't use social media at all
-Doesn't post clickbaity vids, or indeed any vids as that is showing off
-Doesnt throw pads down, instead gently lowers them in a respectful manner
-Doesn't use "get," "send" or "bagged"
-Climbs really hard, ideally across multiple disciplines, but is humble about it, a modest achiever.
-Does top grade stuff but it isn't about the grades man, it's about the experience

Through this profile, I have calculated that UKB's dream climber is... John Gaskins

ali k

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#10902 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 10:41:57 am
I'm trying to build up the image of UKB's perfect climber

-Doesn't use "get," "send" or "bagged"

Definitely doesn’t use “rig”

Bradders

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#10903 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 10:55:05 am
Or "bloc"

May use Flikr, but only with an absolute minimum of additional writing/commentary, and only posting things after an acceptable (undefined) period of time has passed.


andy_e

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#10904 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 11:13:30 am
Dan says hello

Fultonius

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#10905 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 11:41:36 am
I'm trying to build up the image of UKB's perfect climber

-Doesn't use social media at all
-Doesn't post clickbaity vids, or indeed any vids as that is showing off
-Doesnt throw pads down, instead gently lowers them in a respectful manner
-Doesn't use "get," "send" or "bagged"
-Climbs really hard, ideally across multiple disciplines, but is humble about it, a modest achiever.
-Does top grade stuff but it isn't about the grades man, it's about the experience
-doesn't fabricate achievements

Through this profile, I have calculated that UKB's dream climber is... John Gaskins back around  :chair:

AMorris

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#10906 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 11:43:09 am
Through this profile, I have calculated that UKB's dream climber is... John Gaskins

And so the cycle begins again. Such is the way of the UKB Ouroboros.

edshakey

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#10907 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 11:45:16 am
-Doesnt throw pads down, instead gently lowers them in a respectful manner

Through this profile, I have calculated that UKB's dream climber is... John Gaskins
A common misconception - JG was actually a notorious pad chucker. The pads used for his ascent of Shadow Play were thrown from atop Lingmell End, when a rare north westerly sent them spinning down the valley and straight into the cave with a deafening whump.

jwi

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#10908 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 02:03:54 pm

This comment made me wonder if perhaps Britain's 'lost' generation (I actually think it was pretty good) was 'lost' because it was using as its reference point some world class bullshitters?
A process of hard work and improvement which is visible and transparent and which leads to success is a phenomenon that has been shown to breed more hard work and more success for others within the same local scene - it's the 'localised pockets of excellence' effect described in bro-science books such as 'Talent Code' by Daniel Coyle and 'Bounce' by Matthew Said.

Having world class athletes, climbers in this case, with visible and transparent characters - the likes of Bosi and Aiden among others - gives other climbers aspirational role models they can see and believe in that the training and hard work, works. In the generation you're talking about (or just after?), you had prominent characters such as, among others, Simpson, bullshitting his way through life not being transparent or approachable yet claiming to be at the cutting edge of climbing. Which gave others nothing to aspire to except 'don't question me or I'll attack'.

I been thinking a bit about this. Advice from bullshyters can of course be detrimental. I remember being quite confused at the time by some stuff Mr Simpson wrote about strength endurance, which did not seem to match up with what “equally good” climbers  in France or Spain, or their coaches, held to be true. Of course strength endurance comes quick if you do not have to actually link the route, just do it bolt to bolt and then claim you did it. Now I feel that this was perhaps the part that was missing in his write up.

However I suspect that it is mostly the other way around: it is easier to bullshit if you are better than most climbers around.

I was at a crag the other day where I was very much the worst climber by a huge margin. For me the three other guys at the crag was at about the same level, as I cannot really tell the difference between how well a 9a climber, a 9a+ climber and a 9b climber move. Whereas I can quite easily tell the difference between someone who climbs around 8a+ to someone who climbs 8b+. If I judge someone to be able to get up a ≈ 8a+ route but they claims that they redpoint 8b+ I guess I would find that weird. But if someone who is at the level of about 9a redpoint claim that they have done a 9b I would take them at face value.

SA Chris

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#10909 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 03:14:33 pm
Indeed, was just listening to Nugget climbing podcast interview with Aidan where he talks about differences between how he climbs compared to members of the "Mellows", things that I would definitely not notice (from watching vids at least).

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#10910 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 03:23:45 pm
I'm trying to build up the image of UKB's perfect climber

-Doesn't use social media at all
-Doesn't post clickbaity vids, or indeed any vids as that is showing off
-Doesnt throw pads down, instead gently lowers them in a respectful manner
-Doesn't use "get," "send" or "bagged"
-Climbs really hard, ideally across multiple disciplines, but is humble about it, a modest achiever.
-Does top grade stuff but it isn't about the grades man, it's about the experience

Through this profile, I have calculated that UKB's dream climber is... John Gaskins

- repeats hard problems quickly then quietly suggests a downgrade, ideally to a slash grade

Bradders

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#10911 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 04:32:51 pm

BillyTheMountain

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#10912 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 04:56:23 pm
I'm telling you, the only way to figure out whether it's worth having a PR department is to compare what they drive to the crag and who they can pull at the Works party.
Have you seen that train-spotting bloke on Instagram? Have you seen his girlfriend? As one poster on this forum said "when you've got 1.5m followers on Instagram you can date whoever you like".

He's been with his girlfriend from years before starting the tik-tok/instagram thing. He actually used to be/still is a model. I think he exaggerates his dorky style and is at least somewhat playing a character.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjSyZpynF_Z/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BqPGJ3HnmGS/
« Last Edit: November 04, 2022, 05:01:59 pm by BillyTheMountain »

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#10913 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 05:00:40 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/CkizirXofmC/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Somewhere Droyd's head is exploding  :lol:

I'd get wound up, but the fact that they've managed to cram at least seven data points into the '1-2 sessions' section of the x axis suggests that either Bosi is so good that he's doing things even faster than in a session (in which case be on the lookout for Lattice-trained climbers logging things as 'great rig, psyched to get it on my ~0.286th session'), or they're not clear on the distinction between graphs and crayon drawings.

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#10914 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 05:20:58 pm
I don't think no. of sessions is a reliable indicator for boulders, there are just too many variables. What's more important is benchmarking yourself at time of send and SCIENCE FACTS have shown the only reliable indicator (IMO) is how long you can hang the BM 2k edge. Standard protocol should be to conduct a simple hang test within the days following a cutting edge send.

36chambers

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#10915 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 05:28:31 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/CkizirXofmC/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Somewhere Droyd's head is exploding  :lol:

Looking at that graph, he might as well not bother with sessions 6-9 and skip straight to 10

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#10916 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 05:47:03 pm
I'm telling you, the only way to figure out whether it's worth having a PR department is to compare what they drive to the crag and who they can pull at the Works party.
Have you seen that train-spotting bloke on Instagram? Have you seen his girlfriend? As one poster on this forum said "when you've got 1.5m followers on Instagram you can date whoever you like".

He's been with his girlfriend from years before starting the tik-tok/instagram thing. He actually used to be/still is a model. I think he exaggerates his dorky style and is at least somewhat playing a character.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjSyZpynF_Z/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BqPGJ3HnmGS/

Reading that before clicking the links it took me far too long to realise you were talking about Train Bloke and not Bosi.

Bradders

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#10917 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 06:33:42 pm
I'm telling you, the only way to figure out whether it's worth having a PR department is to compare what they drive to the crag and who they can pull at the Works party.
Have you seen that train-spotting bloke on Instagram? Have you seen his girlfriend? As one poster on this forum said "when you've got 1.5m followers on Instagram you can date whoever you like".

He's been with his girlfriend from years before starting the tik-tok/instagram thing. He actually used to be/still is a model. I think he exaggerates his dorky style and is at least somewhat playing a character.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjSyZpynF_Z/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BqPGJ3HnmGS/

Reading that before clicking the links it took me far too long to realise you were talking about Train Bloke and not Bosi.

Who are you talking about here?

Will Hunt

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Wellsy

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#10919 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 08:00:07 pm
He's not exactly a bad looking bloke

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#10920 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 09:54:50 pm
Significant rises in UK climbing standards occur in periods of economic hardship:

Brown and Whillans: post-war austerity. This increase in standards fizzled out in the later 50s and 60s when 'most of our people have never had it so good'.

Livesey, Fawcett, Allen and Bancroft: 1973-75 oil shocks, three day week.

Moffatt, Moon and the other dole climbers: 1980s collapse of traditional industries and manufacturing (Stu can blame the relative prosperity of the new Labour era for his "lost generation").

And now.

Nice graph Duncan:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CkjA1z8Dcsb/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

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#10921 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2022, 10:46:42 pm
He's not exactly a bad looking bloke

Trains hard.

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#10922 Re: significant repeats
November 05, 2022, 11:42:13 am
I don't think no. of sessions is a reliable indicator for boulders, there are just too many variables. What's more important is benchmarking yourself at time of send and SCIENCE FACTS have shown the only reliable indicator (IMO) is how long you can hang the BM 2k edge. Standard protocol should be to conduct a simple hang test within the days following a cutting edge send.

Yup, I'm sure everyone has those 1 or 2 problems multiple grades below their v-max that are in their total antistyle and have still taken them multiple sessions to send.

Bradders

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#10923 Re: significant repeats
November 05, 2022, 01:57:55 pm
Yup, I'm sure everyone has those 1 or 2 problems multiple grades below their v-max that are in their total antistyle and have still taken them multiple sessions to send.

Or fail to do over multiple sessions and eventually give up on, as the case may be.... :wall:

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#10924 Re: significant repeats
November 08, 2022, 03:45:35 pm
Jonathan Siegrist has done the fourth ascent of Flex Luthor near Rifle and did not agree with the upgrade to 9b suggested by Matty Hong. Like the first ascensionist he holds the route to be 9a+.

source https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/jonathan-siegrist-repite-flex-luthor-9a-en-rifle/

 

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