UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 4361229 times)

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2890
  • Karma: +146/-1
#10550 Re: significant repeats
May 13, 2022, 10:20:31 pm
Mega! Great to see people putting the work in on Steve's routes, what an amazing line at one of the best crags in the UK.

haydn jones

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1048
  • Karma: +95/-2
#10551 Re: significant repeats
May 13, 2022, 11:10:17 pm
They are the same lines just a different sequence. Eder does a big move up and left to a good hold instead of rolling over to the sloper or somthing like that. I haven't been on the moves so can't quite say. All I know is it's definitely the same route not a variation

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2956
  • Karma: +162/-8
#10552 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2022, 06:25:44 am
Rainman for Eder!

Nike Air

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 675
  • Karma: +72/-1
#10553 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2022, 08:21:23 am
Raymond

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4305
  • Karma: +345/-25
#10554 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2022, 08:34:15 am
They are the same lines just a different sequence. Eder does a big move up and left to a good hold instead of rolling over to the sloper or somthing like that. I haven't been on the moves so can't quite say. All I know is it's definitely the same route not a variation
Nice one, thanks for clarifying. There's a time and a place for eliminates and it's not on long routes!

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5770
  • Karma: +229/-4

gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1811
  • Karma: +147/-6
#10556 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2022, 09:39:40 am
Any new knee bars that steve didn’t use? Has the grade held up?

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8716
  • Karma: +626/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#10557 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2022, 09:42:55 am
What does this mean?

Proposing a different name for the route? 😀

From what I understand Eder goes left to good holds on Rainshadow and then traverses back right at a higher height. Toby and Josh have been trying it direct.


Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4944
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#10558 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2022, 09:44:45 am
Any new knee bars that steve didn’t use? Has the grade held up?

2 new ones. One hands off on Raindogs and one pretty much hands off higher on meat of route.

Not sure Josh or Eder really care about the grade they have had a hell of a ride!

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4305
  • Karma: +345/-25
#10559 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2022, 09:56:35 am
Is the higher no-hander not the one Steve used, just that Josh and Eder are better at milking it? (The one after the RS crux section) Or is there another one higher than that?

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4944
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#10560 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2022, 10:00:39 am
Is the higher no-hander not the one Steve used, just that Josh and Eder are better at milking it? (The one after the RS crux section) Or is there another one higher than that?

Yeah thats the one. Didn't realise Steve used one. These lads are just knee wizards.

The one on Raindogs seems really good for them but how much better is it than the bridged rest after chain.

(Just watched Steves vid and he does get a rubbish knee but doesn't wear a pad. )

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5770
  • Karma: +229/-4
#10561 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2022, 10:46:34 am
They are the same lines just a different sequence. Eder does a big move up and left to a good hold instead of rolling over to the sloper or somthing like that. I haven't been on the moves so can't quite say. All I know is it's definitely the same route not a variation

From what I understand Eder goes left to good holds on Rainshadow and then traverses back right at a higher height. Toby and Josh have been trying it direct.

These don't sound the same...

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8716
  • Karma: +626/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#10562 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2022, 11:27:14 am
They are the same lines just a different sequence. Eder does a big move up and left to a good hold instead of rolling over to the sloper or somthing like that. I haven't been on the moves so can't quite say. All I know is it's definitely the same route not a variation

From what I understand Eder goes left to good holds on Rainshadow and then traverses back right at a higher height. Toby and Josh have been trying it direct.

These don't sound the same...

The good hold Haydn is referring to is I believe on Rainshadow

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2956
  • Karma: +162/-8
#10563 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2022, 05:12:46 pm
Young lad called Felix (not sure of surname) climbed Stevolution, 9a, at Raven Tor this morning. Moments before the sun hit. Classy stuff.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8716
  • Karma: +626/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#10564 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2022, 06:34:40 pm
That’d be Wilkins

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2890
  • Karma: +146/-1
#10565 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2022, 06:43:23 pm
Young lad called Felix (not sure of surname) climbed Stevolution, 9a, at Raven Tor this morning. Moments before the sun hit. Classy stuff.

Good skills. 30th member of the Brits who have climbed 9a club.

https://climbing-history.org/list/1/strong-british-male-route-climbers

andy moles

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 609
  • Karma: +53/-1
#10566 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2022, 08:02:04 pm

Good skills. 30th member of the Brits who have climbed 9a club.

https://climbing-history.org/list/1/strong-british-male-route-climbers

32nd if you include the two who aren't male  ;)

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2890
  • Karma: +146/-1
#10567 Re: significant repeats
May 14, 2022, 10:42:44 pm
Doh! Right you are  :strongbench:

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2890
  • Karma: +146/-1
#10568 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2022, 07:41:56 am
Eders just done rainman! 💪



Interesting to see how much he's getting out of the knees. Being able to get a hands off after the roof boulder problem must make a big difference.

Downgrade incoming?
« Last Edit: May 16, 2022, 07:48:06 am by remus »

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8716
  • Karma: +626/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#10569 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2022, 08:28:11 am
Downgrade incoming?

No. He’s said 9b still. 😅

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1424
  • Karma: +102/-10
#10570 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2022, 08:30:12 am
9b still even with all the knees? Steve Mac is an absolute animal to have done it without em.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8716
  • Karma: +626/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#10571 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2022, 08:53:32 am
Special to have continuous uncut footage like that and see the emotion at the top.

Well done Marsha capturing it.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#10572 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2022, 08:58:38 am
Makes me chuckle that McClure’s been saying in interviews for 20 years his strength is being an engineer/ working out weak mans beta/ refining every body position then this happens on his hardest route.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8716
  • Karma: +626/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#10573 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2022, 10:33:14 am
Steve did experiment with that kneebar rest but couldn’t get it to work

Pope B

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 36
  • Karma: +8/-0
#10574 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2022, 10:50:42 am
Ondra also got hands off at that second knee bar I think?

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal