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significant repeats (Read 3593502 times)

remus

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#10250 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2021, 08:30:17 am
Schubert has flashed 8c+ before in 2016 (?) en 2020.

https://kletterblock.de/en_GB/2020/10/jakob-schubert-flasht-lichtjahre-8c/

I had a little look around and Jakob also flashed Victimes del Futur at margalef towards the end of 2019. Seems a bit murky around the grade as some holds have broken, but he suggested 8c+/9a and people logging it on 8a.nu seem to be suggesting 9a for it. Seems to me he's snuck in to the very exclusive '9a first try' club!

gme

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#10251 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2021, 11:29:10 am
Impressive trip from Jacob.
Is this the start of a bit of a jump in performances off the back of the Olympics as was suggested in a separate thread. Also another case (janja)of comp climbers doing cutting edge ascents outside in short trips between training for indoors. To me Jacob is very much a comp climber who goes outside a bit, when they get an opportunity. Megos and Ondra the opposite outside of Olympics run in.

IanP

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#10252 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2021, 01:56:13 pm
To me Jacob is very much a comp climber who goes outside a bit, when they get an opportunity. Megos and Ondra the opposite outside of Olympics run in.

A little unfair on Jacob I think - I might not be much into putting new routes up and probably spends more time at comps than Ondra/Megos but his sport ticklist is pretty decent:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jakob_Schubert#Redpointed_routes

Slightly out of date (doesn't include his recent Siurana/Margalef routes) and almost certainly not complete but still includes 1 9b+, 5 9bs and 7 9a+s

gme

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#10253 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2021, 03:26:29 pm
Yes hes amazing, probably 2nd best behind Ondra but, like Will Bosi they appear to be more focused on comps and fit going outside around it.

I would guess that their training is based on the comp season not outside projects.

Duncan Disorderly

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#10254 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2021, 04:28:54 pm
Looks like Stefano Ghisolfi has done his Lonely Mountain project...

Sounds like hard 9b...

https://www.instagram.com/p/CXlypuBsMwg/

edshakey

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#10255 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2021, 04:38:01 pm
Looks like Stefano Ghisolfi has done his Lonely Mountain project...

Sounds like hard 9b...

https://www.instagram.com/p/CXlypuBsMwg/

Welcome to 2022, the year of symbolic grades that are acknowledged as wrong  :dance1:

Fiend

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#10256 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2021, 04:40:56 pm
Welcome to 2022, the year of symbolic grades that are acknowledged as wrong  :dance1:
Something to look forward to then!

jwi

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Duma

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#10258 Re: significant repeats
December 21, 2021, 06:35:32 pm
Excellent! I thought Stefano's comment on Ondra's post the other day was good too
https://www.instagram.com/p/CXrFZgUqbJW/?utm_medium=copy_link

peterbeal

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#10259 Re: significant repeats
December 22, 2021, 07:05:43 pm

abarro81

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#10260 Re: significant repeats
December 22, 2021, 07:11:46 pm
People in disagreeing on grades for short routes shocker. Stop the press.

Doylo

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#10261 Re: significant repeats
December 22, 2021, 07:19:55 pm
I like how it doesn’t matter how strong you are -  there’s always some fucker who can piss on your chips/bonfire. Will should have downgraded La Capella, BenNJerry would have in the olden days.

crimpinainteasy

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#10262 Re: significant repeats
December 24, 2021, 05:45:39 pm
I'd be curious to see Jakob Schubert try something like rainman which is by very different in style to the capellas. I reckon the short powerful routes just really play to his style rather than actually being particularly softly graded.

teestub

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#10263 Re: significant repeats
December 24, 2021, 06:12:56 pm
I think he has done his fair share of longer routes in Spain in quick order too? Not sure how Rainman compares to those in terms of style, besides having more sidepulls and bad feet obvs!

abarro81

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#10264 Re: significant repeats
December 24, 2021, 06:35:33 pm
Perfecto Mundo and Planta de Shiva are not super short (just thinking of hard things he's done off the top of my head)

teestub

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#10265 Re: significant repeats
December 24, 2021, 06:49:58 pm
Was thinking he’s done some of Shamra’s, Neanderthal and Stoking? Too lazy to check…

abarro81

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#10266 Re: significant repeats
December 24, 2021, 07:32:47 pm
Both. Pretty well rounded on route styles really:
http://escalade9.wifeo.com/jakob-schubert.php

remus

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#10267 Re: significant repeats
January 03, 2022, 07:36:12 pm
Lucy Mitchell has climbed her second 8c with an ascent of  Le fight du beau gosse intégrale at Lourmarin in France. Sounds like she made pretty quick work of it with a one day ascent of the first part (8b) then 3 days to add on the extension.

Duma

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#10268 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2022, 10:33:31 pm
Anak Verhoeven has done escalatamasters. Twice. (Once without a kneepad)

https://www.instagram.com/p/CYfAjGttDT3/?utm_medium=copy_link

Bradders

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#10269 Re: significant repeats
January 12, 2022, 07:45:50 pm

jwi

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#10270 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2022, 10:49:12 am
Oriane Bertone has done the first female ascent of Karma in Fontainebleau.


Fiend

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#10271 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2022, 11:08:46 am
Made that look like a warm-up!

Davo

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#10272 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2022, 11:39:30 am
Made that look like a warm-up!

You aren’t kidding. She barely looked like she was trying

Teaboy

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#10273 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2022, 11:50:15 am
I love watching her climb, no one switches between balletic grace and grunting and sketching up improbable sequences quite like her.

Is she really sponsored by Rock City in Hull? Their logo appears in the final credits and the film seems like it’s produced by a family member

remus

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#10274 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2022, 12:04:05 pm
Waddage!

Im surprised her's is the first female ascent, so many strong women out there these days and it's obviously an ultra classic. Gonna be good to see what else she gets up to in the forest.

 

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