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significant repeats (Read 3676103 times)

Kingy

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#10225 Re: significant repeats
December 11, 2021, 09:01:48 am
Is that one of the strongest days ever?

Just assuming that the grades everyone else has proposed for them are right, has anyone else ever done 9b+ and 9b in the same day? Or even two 9a+s or harder in the same day?

Ten years ago, Sharma climbed 9b (FA of Fight or Flight) and Chaxi 9a+ both at Oliana on the same day.

https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/
« Last Edit: December 11, 2021, 09:24:13 am by Kingy »

Bradders

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#10226 Re: significant repeats
December 11, 2021, 10:22:07 am
Great knowledge as per Ted!

Ed booth

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#10227 Re: significant repeats
December 12, 2021, 05:19:02 pm
Someone has logged My Own Private Idaho up in Crafant. Would this be the first repeat ?

Adam Lincoln

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#10228 Re: significant repeats
December 12, 2021, 05:24:35 pm
Someone has logged My Own Private Idaho up in Crafant. Would this be the first repeat ?

It was Tim Blake

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#10229 Re: significant repeats
December 12, 2021, 05:30:46 pm
Someone has logged My Own Private Idaho up in Crafant. Would this be the first repeat ?

Second after Ned. Time for Tim to move on, he's crushed pretty much everything in North Wales now!

Ged

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#10230 Re: significant repeats
December 12, 2021, 08:24:27 pm
Is that one of the strongest days ever?

Just assuming that the grades everyone else has proposed for them are right, has anyone else ever done 9b+ and 9b in the same day? Or even two 9a+s or harder in the same day?

Ten years ago, Sharma climbed 9b (FA of Fight or Flight) and Chaxi 9a+ both at Oliana on the same day.

https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/

Sharmas effort seems more impressive I think, given the energy expenditure required for one of those oliana routes, compared to a relatively short bouldery route. Never mind the fact he already had two decent burns on other routes before!

Duma

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#10231 Re: significant repeats
December 12, 2021, 08:50:30 pm
Well maybe, but
a) we don't know how many goes Jakob had that day
b) the routes are harder (though perhaps not by a full grade)
c) fight or flight is one of the shortest hard routes at Oliana
d) his attempt on Chaxiraxi apparently ended at the last move of the boulder problem - which is at the start...

Ged

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#10232 Re: significant repeats
December 12, 2021, 09:10:22 pm
I can definitely have a lot of goes in a day on a short route at my limit, and probably only 1 go on a long route at my limit that involves getting high.

They're the same grade according to Schubert.

shark

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#10233 Re: significant repeats
December 12, 2021, 10:08:19 pm
They're the same grade according to Schubert.

?

“King Capella probably felt like hard 9b to me and La Capella definitely didn’t feel harder than 9a+“

jwi

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#10234 Re: significant repeats
December 13, 2021, 06:04:49 pm
I can definitely have a lot of goes in a day on a short route at my limit, and probably only 1 go on a long route at my limit that involves getting high.

I think that’s pretty individual, I can definitely get three quality attempts, falling high on all attempts on 40m routes at my limit. Not much more attempts on short strength endurance things, four maybe.

remus

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#10235 Re: significant repeats
December 13, 2021, 08:35:33 pm
They're the same grade according to Schubert.

?

“King Capella probably felt like hard 9b to me and La Capella definitely didn’t feel harder than 9a+“

I assume Ged was comparing the grade of King Capella/La Capella to Fight or Flight/Chaxi.

Ged

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#10236 Re: significant repeats
December 13, 2021, 09:29:10 pm
They're the same grade according to Schubert.

?

“King Capella probably felt like hard 9b to me and La Capella definitely didn’t feel harder than 9a+“

I assume Ged was comparing the grade of King Capella/La Capella to Fight or Flight/Chaxi.

Yes I was, sorry for confusion.

Whatever, sharma is the best!

Nibile

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#10237 Re: significant repeats
December 14, 2021, 09:23:22 am

remus

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#10238 Re: significant repeats
December 14, 2021, 05:53:28 pm
Nathan Philips has done Off the Wagon.

teestub

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Wood FT

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#10240 Re: significant repeats
December 14, 2021, 06:30:35 pm
Very cool

MischaHY

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#10241 Re: significant repeats
December 14, 2021, 09:18:15 pm
Megos has done La Capella. Found it hard apparently.

jwi

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#10242 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2021, 12:15:35 pm
More Capella stuff. Jakob Schubert talks and climbs



remus

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#10243 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2021, 05:47:16 pm
Turns out that Jakob also managed to climb everything hard at the la capella sector (>8c) during his 9 day trip, including a flash of jungle speed (8c+ or 9a depending on who you ask).

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CXgvAweDI5H/

jwi

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#10244 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2021, 05:47:42 pm
 If Jungle Speed is 8c+ Jacob joins a very exclusive group of six (?) climbers who have done a route of that grade without any prior practice, and if Jungle Speed is 9a Jacob joins a group of three.

? = Adam, Alex, Magnus, Patxi and Ramón (from the top of my head) + Jakob

remus

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#10245 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2021, 06:39:45 pm
? = Adam, Alex, Magnus, Patxi and Ramón (from the top of my head) + Jakob

Daniel woods has logged pure imagination as a flash on 8a.nu, reckon that's probably a mistake though as he also logged southern smoke direct as a flash and there's some footage out there of him working it.

HaeMeS

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#10246 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2021, 10:47:28 pm
Schubert has flashed 8c+ before in 2016 (?) en 2020.

https://kletterblock.de/en_GB/2020/10/jakob-schubert-flasht-lichtjahre-8c/

Adam Lincoln

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#10247 Re: significant repeats
December 16, 2021, 05:09:27 pm
Shawn rabatou just flashed spectre! Very impressive

« Last Edit: December 16, 2021, 05:24:56 pm by Adam Lincoln »

Mike Highbury

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#10248 Re: significant repeats
December 16, 2021, 06:00:43 pm
Shawn rabatou just flashed spectre! Very impressive

Is the talk of money a joke or is this something like the type of contract that he has?

Adam Lincoln

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#10249 Re: significant repeats
December 16, 2021, 06:28:38 pm
Shawn rabatou just flashed spectre! Very impressive

Is the talk of money a joke or is this something like the type of contract that he has?

No id imagine its true. North Face athlete incentive. 11k day. Wonder what else he climbed.

 

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