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significant repeats (Read 4234343 times)

Wellsy

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#10050 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 12:47:36 pm
Feels a bit silly having a details embargo this isn't a video game release but nbd, hope its an upgrade

Dac

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#10051 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 12:48:02 pm
There can be nothing worse in the world of public relations than having your press release buried by another big story that breaks at the same time.

Looking over on UKC I note that the climbing trouser group test has just dropped, so they are probably waiting for that to move a little further down the news cycle.

dunnyg

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#10052 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 12:53:08 pm
 :lol:

Fiend

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#10053 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 01:11:19 pm
You'll be hooked on that one tho dunny!  :smirk:

andy popp

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#10054 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 01:24:52 pm
Interesting what difference a single grade can make. Just another 9a+ repeat, they happen all the time. 9b - first in the world by huge margin!!!!!

lukeyboy

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#10055 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 01:33:17 pm
Oh come the fuck on...  :whistle:

IanP

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#10056 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 01:38:24 pm
Interesting what difference a single grade can make. Just another 9a+ repeat, they happen all the time. 9b - first in the world by huge margin!!!!!

I'm guessing it must be a least 9a+(?), even at that its pretty significant, only Open Air (assuming Ondra's upgrade is correct) was earlier so it would be the second of the grade in the world.  As you say, at 9b it would be massively ahead of its time.

Duncan Disorderly

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#10057 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 01:46:18 pm
 :popcorn:

casa

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#10058 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 02:04:04 pm
article on the other channel

Adam Lincoln

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#10059 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 02:08:42 pm
article on the other channel

What an anti climax. 9a+….

Fiend

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#10060 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 02:10:15 pm
UKC exclusives can suck my sack, I'd rather have an insta green tick than that.

Wellsy

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#10061 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 02:16:12 pm
UKC exclusives can suck my sack, I'd rather have an insta green tick than that.

Good to see that someone at least has standards around here

In all seriousness though sounds fucking nails good effort from Will. 8c+ into 8c+ only 9a+!!!

andy_e

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#10062 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 02:18:27 pm
UKC exclusives can suck my sack, I'd rather have an insta green tick than that.

Why one when you can have both?

https://www.instagram.com/p/CVxrF8ZoBB8/

Nails

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#10063 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 02:19:08 pm
When did NEWSFLASHES become 5 sides of A4 on something that happened 2 days ago?

36chambers

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#10064 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 02:26:12 pm
** not the successful ascent. Before you get too excited. **


mr chaz

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#10065 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 02:30:08 pm
Nearly a full house: UKC exclusive, insta green tick, 2 pm drop, slash grade.

Back around

Wil

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#10066 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 02:33:15 pm
I do love that he seems to have messed up the Insta post with the second pic though. Great ascent and amazing to see this get a repeat finally. What's the list of failures like? Lots must have had a play.

Duncan campbell

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#10067 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 02:35:25 pm
Band of Birds will be giving him a good pecking for that one!!! Anyone know if Pete Dawson is trying again this year? Would be ace if he gets it done.

Fiend

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#10068 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 02:38:40 pm
UKC exclusives can suck my sack, I'd rather have an insta green tick than that.

Why one when you can have both?

https://www.instagram.com/p/CVxrF8ZoBB8/

Putting the INSTA in instagram there  ::) ::) ::)

Liamhutch89

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#10069 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 02:42:24 pm
So 9a+ on home turf takes 40 sessions over 4 years, but he can do 9b+ on holiday???

Edit: iIt's the 9a+ i'm doubting, not the 9b+ if it isnt clear enough!

remus

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#10070 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 02:48:07 pm
So 9a+ on home turf takes 40 sessions over 4 years, but he can do 9b+ on holiday???

Edit: iIt's the 9a+ i'm doubting, not the 9b+ if it isnt clear enough!

To be fair it sounds like mutation is particularly skin and conditions dependent which always throws the grade-o-meter off.

James Malloch

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#10071 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 02:52:19 pm
So 9a+ on home turf takes 40 sessions over 4 years, but he can do 9b+ on holiday???

Edit: iIt's the 9a+ i'm doubting, not the 9b+ if it isnt clear enough!

9b = 3 sessions
9b+ = 10 sessions
9a+ = 40 sessions

Seems crazy, the difference…

Duncan campbell

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#10072 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 02:55:08 pm
I guess maybe also worth noting that he says he has been training for comps during primo tor season in previous years? There has got to be a bit of re-learning the movement/sequence which wastes sessions doesn't it?

When he did those hard Siurana things he was there and could climb on them regularly when everything felt good.

Stu Littlefair

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#10073 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 03:07:45 pm
It's the same thing with Evo; try it with poor skin or mediocre conditions and it feels almost impossible but it's much easier when it's really cold and you've been on the anti-hydral.

Seems wrong to grade it for average conditions 'cos when you finally do it, it feels OK. OTOH it can take you years to get that perfect day....

spidermonkey09

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#10074 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 03:09:43 pm

To be fair it sounds like mutation is particularly skin and conditions dependent which always throws the grade-o-meter off.

I always think this is an interesting one. We shouldn't grade stuff for perfect atmospheric and skin conditions, we should grade them for bang average conditions. If a crag is in the sun all the time, its grades are going to settle at how hard they are to climb in full sun. Waiting for the shade is likely to confer at advantage and give you an edge, but that shouldn't be the routes baseline.

Obviously this can be taken too far i think the tldr for me is that massively connies dependent routes like this shouldn't get given a grade based on how they feel when literally everything is perfect. A good example of something similar at a more amenable level is Predator; all but unclimbable in poor conditions, nails for 8b in average conditions and reasonable for 8b when its mint. It would be ridiculous if it was given 8a+ just cause thats how it might feel in primo connies (I know it used to be 8a+, wrongly imo!)

Ha, just saw Stus post;  :devangel:

 

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