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significant repeats (Read 4236779 times)

Bradders

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#10025 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2021, 01:20:30 pm
Every time I’m reminded that Will Bosi (and presumably other climbers) has an agent I can’t help but wonder why that’s even necessary… climbing’s bigger than ever but has the number of people who care whether he’s done Mutation or not increased?

Obviously the likes of us do and there’ll be a few articles in your Grimpers and your Rocks and Ices so our counterparts in other countries can be as mildly interested  as we are when we read about longstanding unrepeated lower-9th-grade routes getting ascents in places we’ve heard of but probably won’t ever visit, but will a perfectly-timed announcement really be the difference between him being on Shreddies boxes for the next six months and having to go and work on an oil rig? Is he making enough from climbing that 15% of it is enough to run a talent agency with? Am I naïve about how much money is involved in rock climbing nowadays?

Edit: I remembered that he does comps. The money probably comes from doing comps doesn’t it?

Great post  :lol:

Neil F

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#10026 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2021, 01:26:44 pm
Should these rumours (of info embargos) not be in the ‘Climbing goes mainstream weirdness’ thread  :-\

wasbeen

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#10027 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2021, 01:30:24 pm
Every time I’m reminded that Will Bosi (and presumably other climbers) has an agent I can’t help but wonder why that’s even necessary… climbing’s bigger than ever but has the number of people who care whether he’s done Mutation or not increased?

Obviously the likes of us do and there’ll be a few articles in your Grimpers and your Rocks and Ices so our counterparts in other countries can be as mildly interested  as we are when we read about longstanding unrepeated lower-9th-grade routes getting ascents in places we’ve heard of but probably won’t ever visit, but will a perfectly-timed announcement really be the difference between him being on Shreddies boxes for the next six months and having to go and work on an oil rig? Is he making enough from climbing that 15% of it is enough to run a talent agency with? Am I naïve about how much money is involved in rock climbing nowadays?

Edit: I remembered that he does comps. The money probably comes from doing comps doesn’t it?

£3319 for a World Cup win. Should just about cover travel expenses(?)

https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/56266693




ali k

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#10028 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2021, 01:36:21 pm
Every time I’m reminded that Will Bosi (and presumably other climbers) has an agent I can’t help but wonder why that’s even necessary…
Is he making enough from climbing that 15% of it is enough to run a talent agency with?

I have no idea re: Will but I suspect a lot of 'agents' of low level* sports (and other) people might just be friends or acquantainces who they have a fairly informal agreement with rather than them taking a 10-15% cut of everything. After all, it's easier to negotiate a better deal with a sponsor by going through a third party cos (a) you look more important if you have an 'agent', and (b) cos it's easier for a third party to play hard ball and big you up...unless you're Jerry in which case no one could do a better job of that!

*Not implying Will is low level in the climbing world btw.

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#10029 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2021, 01:59:22 pm
Won't there be a teaser post first? A close-up photo of a hold with just a green tick for a caption.

F**king green tick W**kers

abarro81

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#10030 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2021, 02:13:18 pm
#greentickwanker

I like this hashtag a lot

AMorris

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#10031 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2021, 04:27:02 pm
Maybe there’s some analytics out there that shows you maximise exposure if you post your big news at a particular time across all media platforms? If there isn’t, I’m launching a new marketing agency…

My preliminary data suggests that the optimal post timing for maximum engagement on Instagram is around 2pm, when people are taking their afternoon dump.

Shit in, shit out, and all that.

Stabbsy

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#10032 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2021, 04:39:33 pm
Maybe there’s some analytics out there that shows you maximise exposure if you post your big news at a particular time across all media platforms? If there isn’t, I’m launching a new marketing agency…

My preliminary data suggests that the optimal post timing for maximum engagement on Instagram is around 2pm, when people are taking their afternoon dump.

Shit in, shit out, and all that.

Hadn’t considered I needed to bring digestion habits into my algorithm. Do you want to come onboard in my new agency as Digestive Consultant? To maintain ambiguity in your job title, you can also be responsible for buying the biscuits.

cowboyhat

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#10033 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2021, 05:08:29 pm
For the five of us who actually care and even know what repeating Mutation is; I feel like they should just have had it pre-prepared like an obit.

Photos could have been done anytime, interview with Steve, bit of copy.

I'm looking forward to perusing every word of this revelation when it comes, checking for some aspect ratio blunder in a old photo etc

remus

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#10034 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2021, 05:38:43 pm
Plot twist: it's actually the first repeat of Malc's one armer.

AMorris

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#10035 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2021, 06:00:23 pm
Plot twist: it's actually the first repeat of Malc's one armer.

now we're talking

shark

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#10036 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2021, 06:16:34 pm
One snippet. It’s still awaiting a non-wind assisted repeat I hear 😅

Andy F

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#10037 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2021, 06:24:18 pm
I don't see what all the fuss is about Mutation

I mean it wasn't the second 9a in the UK, the first in the Peak, over 23 years ago on the most frequented hard sport crag near Sheffield, the city with the largest population of hard training, hard pulling climbers. Did I mention 23 years old? I mean, it's older than 93.7% of climbers at the local wall. Most of whom have never even heard of the Tor.

I bet it's not even on insta...

shark

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#10038 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2021, 06:32:00 pm
What upgrade are we looking at?

dunnyg

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#10039 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2021, 06:33:36 pm
9a/(9a/9a+)

shark

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#10040 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2021, 06:39:05 pm

Adam Lincoln

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#10041 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2021, 07:55:37 pm
Josh ibbo has done era vella today! His good year continues

Mark Lloyd

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#10042 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2021, 08:04:58 pm
Josh ibbo has done era vella today! His good year continues
Great excuse for bunking off school

Fiend

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#10043 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2021, 09:51:00 pm
9a/(9a/9a+)
That's a work of beauty  :yes:

dunnyg

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#10044 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2021, 10:08:48 pm
Someone has to push the boundaries

Ed booth

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#10045 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 09:40:29 am
It’s a bit strange in the day and age of modern technology when people could live stream from their phones at the crag , that nothing has been put out yet.

mr chaz

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#10046 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 09:46:57 am
That'll be down to the gagging orders issued cragside

wasbeen

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#10047 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 10:09:19 am
It’s a bit strange in the day and age of modern technology when people could live stream from their phones at the crag , that nothing has been put out yet.

Does it imply that they are going for "world's first 9b"

Fiend

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#10048 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 10:20:32 am
Does this make mutation the 1st 9b in the world?  :worms:  ;D

andy moles

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#10049 Re: significant repeats
November 02, 2021, 10:22:24 am
Wasn't the public announcement of Lexicon E11 7a the fully fledged UKC article?

Perhaps they are tactically withholding the news so that the press release is something better crafted than standard instaspaff.

 

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