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significant repeats (Read 3009555 times)

Duncan campbell

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#10000 Re: significant repeats
October 13, 2021, 03:24:21 pm
On a more serious note I thought this was at rifle but have just realised itís not  :slap:

how does American limestone compare to euro stuff? Is it as good? This looks cool in that pic. Did you go barrows or were your spindly legs only able to carry you to rifle crags?  :P

Mainly asking out of morbid curiosity than anything else

SA Chris

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#10001 Re: significant repeats
October 13, 2021, 03:43:28 pm
Clark Mtn where Jumbo L is is lime too, as is the stuff in N Arizona / S Utah, and Shelf Road CO etc.

In spite of climbing over there a fair bit, given the amount of lime on our doorstep in Europe, I studiously avoided any of the lime crags.   

abarro81

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#10002 Re: significant repeats
October 13, 2021, 03:47:12 pm
It's fairly near Rifle but we didn't go.. I would love to - Kryptonite looks awesome - but it sounded like a right pain, in part because there's not loads there so unless you have others psyched to try Kryptonite or this then it's not easy to get a psyched partner. Seemed too mean to try to drag Ella up there (I think ~1hr drive + 1hr walk from Rifle) when we knew very little about the stuff up there for her and I would be projecting. Gets lots of sun too, so the season can be quite awkward - one local said that best conditions were often when it was cold, but sometimes that would mean you'd struggle to get there because of snow. If we go back to Colorado for another trip I'll put more effort into getting info and trying to tempt Ella!

Rifle is blocky choss but very fun blocky choss (actually plenty of it is good quality rock). If you want immaculate aesthetic Verdon/Ceuse-esque sweeping walls then it might not be ideal. It's a bit like if Winspit and Kilnsey had a bunch of babies and then fed them human growth hormone, and only allowed them to wear kneepads, if you can visualise that  ;) I enjoyed it because there are fun vert warm-ups/mileage but also steep, thuggy pump routes. Lots of tricks (knees, heels etc). Very easy scene (friendly, roadside, camping is 2min away though no running water). All in all, not a zone that makes you go "wow", but a lot of fun.

Southern Utah limestone looks fun if you like steep stuff (hurricave, cathedral etc) - I'd really like to go there at some point too. I think they are developing lots of new lime sport crags near Vegas too

Coops_13

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#10003 Re: significant repeats
October 13, 2021, 03:52:41 pm
Haven't been to any of them (avoided sport since I moved here) but Mt. Charleston is the name of the Vegas place - looks pretty good and has some bouldering that looks similar to the cova de l'Ocell caves in Spain. It's higher so think might be the summer area to contrast Red Rock...

abarro81

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#10004 Re: significant repeats
October 13, 2021, 04:06:26 pm
Is the 5G wall up at Mt Charleston too or is that elsewhere?

Coops_13

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#10005 Re: significant repeats
October 13, 2021, 05:09:51 pm
Is the 5G wall up at Mt Charleston too or is that elsewhere?
I think it's up a different mountain but similar area

duncan

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#10006 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2021, 12:11:28 pm
Matty Hong has made the second ascent of Flex Luthor...

Decent interview with Hong from Gripped magazine. Still unclear if the 2021 route is very different from the 2003 version. Caldwell has been making the right noises about having another look, hopefully this will happen before the place gets snowed-in.

Nibile

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#10007 Re: significant repeats
October 18, 2021, 12:31:04 pm
Laura Rogora onsighted 8b+ and 8b in the same morning here in Tuscany.
She doesn't seem to make a big deal of that, given that she only published an Instagram status or something like that.
She also says hi.

Bradders

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#10008 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2021, 10:09:00 am
Will Bosi apparently did Foundations Edge 8C in about 2 hours recently:

https://woguclimbing.com/will-bosi-lo-parte-en-suiza-preparando-temporada/

remus

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#10009 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2021, 10:25:44 am
Rest of his ticklist is pretty respectable too https://www.instagram.com/p/CVPqV0LDp8-/

Wellsy

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#10010 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2021, 10:39:37 am
That's bloody impressive. Truly world class.

Bradders

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#10011 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2021, 11:54:41 am
Just a thought; obviously amazing to see Will and Aidan doing all these hard boulders lately, however, serious question, what have they done on grit?

Seriously... I know Will's done The Ace, which is maybe the most basic of the grit 8Bs. Any others? Has Aidan done any of them?

Just curious.  :popcorn:

JJP

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#10012 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2021, 05:36:15 pm
What an amazing trip and ticklist - always thought foundations edge looked incredible. 

edshakey

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#10013 Re: significant repeats
October 21, 2021, 01:43:21 pm
Es Pontas for Jakob, after Alasha a week or two back.

Pretty much completed DWS then?

Ged

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#10014 Re: significant repeats
October 21, 2021, 06:13:58 pm
Es Pontas for Jakob, after Alasha a week or two back.

Pretty much completed DWS then?

Not until he's done the Conger, naked and pissed.

Kingy

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#10015 Re: significant repeats
October 21, 2021, 07:05:50 pm
Seriously... I know Will's done The Ace, which is maybe the most basic of the grit 8Bs. Any others? Has Aidan done any of them?

Just curious.  :popcorn:

I don't know to be honest. I haven't heard much about them doing hard grit problems, they mostly seem to do igneous or lime when in this country. I reckon they wouldn't be troubled much by the brown stuff!

Wood FT

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#10016 Re: significant repeats
October 21, 2021, 08:08:50 pm
Es Pontas for Jakob, after Alasha a week or two back.

Pretty much completed DWS then?

Not until he's done the Conger, naked and pissed.

Go onÖ

remus

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#10017 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 08:55:06 am
Resident knee bar wizard Alex Barrows flashed Le Souffle du Ragga 8b/+ at Peillon yesterday.

Fiend

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#10018 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 08:55:40 am
Oh his poor wee injured fingers  ::) ::) :o

Bradders

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#10019 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 10:56:01 am
All those other hobbies can't be taking up too much time then  :lol:

Adam Lincoln

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#10020 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 01:37:28 pm
He did an 8c+ last week!

abarro81

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#10021 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 02:18:08 pm
I do feel a bit stupid about that thread now... though it was interesting to see the suggestions, and some of them helped me through resting for a few months earlier this year even if they then got ditched. In the end I just gave up on fully fixing the knuckle, and decided to fudge on through with its limitations, which seems to be working pretty well.  :shrug: It's still dodgy but it likes Europe (big holds, knees, not training at the wall  :lol:) and onsight/flash (not having to pull on the same hold too many times)... definitely learnt a lot about what it can and can't tolerate recently. Monos and redpointing/training on small crimps still =  no chance :sick: Actually, training seems way worse than climbing on steep crags full stop, which is interesting, but maybe not entirely surprising. Anyone got any recommendations for 30m+ grit boulders on 45 degree overhanging walls with all big holds for the winter?

Teaboy

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#10022 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 02:39:43 pm
Craig y Longridge

abarro81

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#10023 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 02:49:03 pm
Ha, yeah forgot about that, though is Going Down crimpy on the crux?

teestub

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#10024 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 04:32:55 pm
I do feel a bit stupid about that thread now... though it was interesting to see the suggestions, and some of them helped me through resting for a few months earlier this year even if they then got ditched.

I donít think thereís anything to feel bad about, you were having a shit time and exploring your options!

Looks like a beautiful holiday location.

 

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