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traverse on opposite side of jet pack / shuffle (Read 2205 times)

travs

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traverse on opposite side of jet pack / shuffle
December 01, 2008, 10:28:50 am
I went down to jet pack at froggat on Sunday which has unfortunately been rendered 7a by the new hold as you can now flick left handed to the sloper top rather than big right handed dyno. Whilst down here I looked on the down hill face of this block which has a fantastic looking sloper traverse on it along the obvious half height crack. Has anybody done this or tried this? Grade beta etc? I have to say it looked nails!

dave

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its been done and reported on here recently i think. can't remember what its called.

Bonjoy

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I think it's called Scandalous and given 7b. Start in the middle of the face trav left and finish up the right side of the arete.

travs

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Thanks Dave / Bonjoy. Any ideas why they didn't start at the far right hand end as it certainly looks doable, just twice as long.

r-man

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Tommy

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I went down to jet pack at froggat on Sunday which has unfortunately been rendered 7a by the new hold as you can now flick left handed to the sloper top rather than big right handed dyno. Whilst down here I looked on the down hill face of this block which has a fantastic looking sloper traverse on it along the obvious half height crack. Has anybody done this or tried this? Grade beta etc? I have to say it looked nails!

It's a problem as Bonjoy pointed out that I did about a year ago, or so. I've alway envisaged doing the whole traverse and then finishing up the left arete, but honestly didn't have the ability to do the huge mammoth link-up. It's a bit of a beast to put it lightly! Then again, my problem from halfway isn't exactly a piece of piss as the highball finish adds some spice.

The whole block would be one of the best long problems around and a great tick. Race you....

travs

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Thanks for the info Tommy. What grade did you think for the linkup?

Tommy

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Grade for the whole link-up? Well, it's a bit of guess as obviously I've not found myself in a position to be good enough to do it yet, but somewhere around 7C+/8A?

 

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