[Bonjoy]

A few new things to report at Rivelin Quarry.
First off a clutch of useful warm-ups on natural bit of rock up and right of the Happy Campus area. The area is a couple of roofs, one big one little. There was some old chalk and signs of cleaning so I’d imagine these of similar lines have been done by others before me and Ben Pritch.
Boffwidth 6b – The Offwidth roof crack succumbs to laybacking and barring (no bridging out right). A tiny bit hemmed in but otherwise excellent. Jamming it all the way would be very hard indeed!
Mini Beak Rib 6b+ - Start low and climb the left arete of the smaller roof/prow. Standard rockover fare.
Mini Beak 6c+/7a – From the starting jug of MBR traverse the lip right to finish slapping up the RHS of the nose.

The main meat is back down in the Happy Campus/Nik’s Wall area.

Cheeks ‘n’ Beaks 7c – The steep undercut wall right of Happy Campus. Use gaston and undercut to get the decent diagonal edge, struggle to build feet up and spring for the distant finger rail. I finished rightwards at the break but you could very easily top out when dry. Cool moves, powerful and pully, but also fairly freaky and technical (unless your name’s Back-two Dan and you can crush it the basic way). I’m not super sure of the grade, maybe it’s only 7b+, either way it’s a mega problem and stays dry in light rain so will maybe get some more quick repeats to settle the grade.

Cheers Dan for the pic. The arete holds are further away (out of reach) than is apparent in the photo.

[Somebody's Fool]

Nice one Dog Egg. Looks amazing.

[uptown]

Looks great Jon, well done. I'll be down to try it soon. 

[Andy B]

Fuck yeah! Nice one.

Might try and get there tomorrow.

[Bonjoy]

I figured I could count on the Banks for a quick repeat. The beta line will be on standby

[r-man]

Cheeks looks very good! Looks top, in fact. Keen to try.

The area is a couple of roofs, one big one little. There was some old chalk and signs of cleaning so I’d imagine these of similar lines have been done by others before me and Ben Pritch.

That was me n' Dave a few weeks ago. Didn't look to have been cleaned at all before. Anyway, we only did Mini Beak Rib.

Some other stuff to add to the Rivelin quarries circuit, done a couple of years ago. These problems are in the bay to the left and round the corner from Nik's Wall.

Greenbeard 7b - In the back left corner of the bay. From sitting (on the rock) dyno from the low flakes to the ledge. Finish on the obvious higher ledge. FA me. This is a cool problem. I did this with a step through jump, but it has also been done with more basic sequences (for both moves)



On the boulder to the left of the bay:

Spudd Webb 7a+ - Dyno from the detached flake at the bottom to the top. FA Dave Mason.
Dribble 6a - Traverse left from a sitdown on the arete, finish in the same place as Spudd Webb. FA me.

And finally, on a boulder not far left of Master Kush, there's an uphill lip trav.
Galleon on Green 6c - Hang the tooth on the left, then traverse the lip rightwards, with footless moves round the arete, finishing by rocking up on the far prow. FA me.

[Johnny Brown]

That's dynamite, I thought you were just having a sit down, next thing you're airborne.

[nik at work]

Sound like there's been quite a few strong climbes getting the Rivelin vibe of late so is there anything else to report?
Anything?
At all?
Anybody?
 

[Bonjoy]

Dan had  a play on your wall, but was thwarted by thin skin and tip splittage. It's always looked desperate to me, I wouldn't be surprised if it was more than 8a.

[nik at work]

Just watched the clip an if it's where I think it is (and I think it is) then this problem needs continued attention or it will rapidly return to a very green state. Also, much as I hate to do this, you might not have done the FA....

Good name though, very apt.

(Cheers for update Bonjoy)

[cofe]

nice work gooseface.

[r-man]

Just watched the clip an if it's where I think it is (and I think it is) then this problem needs continued attention or it will rapidly return to a very green state. Also, much as I hate to do this, you might not have done the FA....

Good name though, very apt.

You're saying you might have done a class sidewards dyno but can't really remember?! Not that I'm too fussed if it's been done before, just a bit surprised if it has. The starting flake didn't look like it had been pulled on, and bits came off when we first tried.

[nik at work]

OK to be slightly more blunt I did this about 9(?) years ago. It is a nice problem when clean but without regular traffic will very soon be green and dirty again. I doubt this bay has had many visitors in the intervening years and I'm unsurprised that it looked unclimbed.

[r-man]

That's more like it! Bluntness is generally a good thing. Perhaps not of the James variety.

Well, it may sadly be green again if the moss is that insistent - as it's two years since it last had a small flurry of ascents. Unless Bonjoy has done it recently - I think I did tell him about it. Quite easy to brush though, so this shouldn't put people off.

Any more little gems that might be worth seeking out?

[nik at work]

The routes, they are amazing.

[Oli]

What's the best way for cleaning off thick green nastyness covering a sizeable area or even just greeness in general?
Stiff bristled yard brush for big areas? Bit of soapy water?

[Johnny Brown]

Stiff bristled brush used on a wet day when the lichen is swollen with water and easily removed. Scrubbing dry rock rarely gets you anywhere, save reaching for a wire brush.

[r-man]

Nik, I said little. I'll admit there are some mighty appealing bits of rock down that way, the sort that makes me wish I wasn't so scared of falling...

Oli, there are many types of green nastiness. Ideally, you want an arsenal of different tools. Large yard brushes will work for loose moss, leaf litter and dusty lichen, but not too much else. Kids plastic spades or wooden spoons make good scrapers, especially for moss. Pointy things are good for clearing cracks. Most lichen succumbs to stiff handbrushes, but is bloody hard work over large areas. Sometimes water makes lichen easier to remove, sometimes not. Slime clogs up brushes so its good to have several, then you can have a before and after brush. Ladders are a pain to carry in, but make cleaning so much easier.

[nik at work]

Some of the routes would be sot of highball-able with mats/spotters, sot of...

The boulder problem start to Cold School Closure is little.

[Bonjoy]

R-man - Good to hear someone else is well versed in the dark arts of advanced cleaning technique.

[Ru]

That looks ace, nice one Bonners.

[andy_e]

All that knowledge was gained from one trip to Wilton 

[SA Chris]

I have a serious brush arsenal now, but many of them wouldn't be usable on grit. Scrubbing down licheny areas with a bit of chalk on the brush seems to deter regrowth.

Probs look ace, good work.

[PATRuL]

How advanced?
How does the lichen and moss feel?
 

[SA Chris]

Feel free to actually make a useful contribution to anything, any time. Patrul.