Cheeks 'N' Beaks (Read 24148 times)

andy_e · December 05, 2008, 10:27:00 am

Quote from: SA Chris on December 05, 2008, 09:51:44 am

Feel free to actually make sense, any time. Patrul.

Shy Yorkshireman · December 05, 2008, 01:41:07 pm

Fantastic moss coloured chalk bag! where can i get one of those bad boys. Good work snake eyes,

dave · December 05, 2008, 02:29:04 pm

i always thought cheeks 'm beaks was a reference to the down quality use in mountain equipment jackets. i think someone at rab told me that.

meatball · December 05, 2008, 04:34:56 pm

Quote from: andi_e on December 05, 2008, 10:27:00 am

Quote from: SA Chris on December 05, 2008, 09:51:44 am
Feel free to actually make sense, any time. Patrul.

bless him, he is trying

Houdini · December 05, 2008, 05:45:58 pm

Quote from: SA Chris on December 05, 2008, 09:51:44 am

Feel free to actually make a useful contribution to anything, any time. Patrul.

Negative waves

r-man · December 11, 2008, 05:49:15 pm

Had a nice day at Rivelin, finished off the problem I'd tried a while ago on the mini beak block.

Beak no Weevil 7a+/b - Sitstart on the right, no footholds below the break. Nice tensiony roof moves to gain the jug on the arete, then rock rightwards to the top. Made much more doable with cunning beta.

Feels similiar in difficulty to Captain Hook, but I could be wrong.

Incidentally, Moontan is hard! Found making the reach from the sidepull to left hand crimp desperate - anyone got any shorter person's sequences?

Andy B · December 11, 2008, 06:35:05 pm

Quote from: r-man on December 11, 2008, 05:49:15 pm

Incidentally, Moontan is hard! Found making the reach from the sidepull to left hand crimp desperate - anyone got any shorter person's sequences?

I've got a video of me doing it somewhere. I'll try and upload it later, if I can find either the tape or the power cable to my external hard drive.

r-man · December 12, 2008, 01:20:58 am

Cheers Andy, that would be grand.

Andy B · December 12, 2008, 09:25:02 pm

After a crash course in botched compression I've managed to upload some poor quality raw footage of Moontan, the first and second ascents of Spud Webb and Greenbeard.

Hope that helps, Robin.

r-man · December 12, 2008, 10:54:43 pm

Um...that's a private video at the moment, can't see it. Think you need to change the settings?

I checked the Bentley's prob vid and that's gone private too.

GCW · December 12, 2008, 11:19:57 pm

You need to change your permissions settings Paul (assuming it's your vid).

Go to the video page, click "settings" (top right), then "privacy". Change this to "public".

Andy B · December 13, 2008, 10:25:23 am

oops. I hadn't noticed it was private last night, as I was still logged in to vimeo. It's hopefully public now.

Quote from: GCW on December 12, 2008, 11:19:57 pm

You need to change your permissions settings Paul (assuming it's your vid).

???I'm called andy. The clue's in the user name.

GCW · December 13, 2008, 10:26:32 am

Sorry Pete, I'm on nights and the brain ain't working.

Andy B · December 13, 2008, 10:33:23 am

No problems George.

butters · December 13, 2008, 10:35:35 am

All good stuff - Moontan looks like it has some pretty funky moves as does Greenbeard.

bluebrad

r-man · December 13, 2008, 01:40:09 pm

Excellent, thanks! I did try that sequence on Moontan but dismissed it as too hard for 7a+. I'll try again!

The clip of Spudd Webb reminds me how much digging we had to do to unearth it! Happy days.

Bonjoy · January 04, 2009, 09:02:22 pm

After being in font and having my grade-gauge re calibrated I reckon CnB is 7b+. Any other opinions?

dave · January 04, 2009, 10:13:41 pm

7b or 7b+. great problem, better but easier than happy campus (still can't do it) for me at least.

on a similar note, Iain's Arete next to nix wall - three words:

What

The

Fuck

question?

Jim · January 04, 2009, 10:39:18 pm

I remember when johnny footwork and el mocho did it or maybe robbins(I think they did - was some time ago), was some sort of weird lunge move for the top.
It looked very hard and total improbably

JC · January 05, 2009, 12:49:34 pm

Quote from: Bonjoy on January 04, 2009, 09:02:22 pm

After being in font and having my grade-gauge re calibrated I reckon CnB is 7b+. Any other opinions?

I'd agree with that dude. There must be a couple of different sequences on it as well. I reckon your way of doing it on the picture would be harder for the tall. I did it by spanning up with my left hand to the hold you have your right one on. $:-\$

Bonjoy · January 05, 2009, 01:19:56 pm

Yeah, i tried it like that to start with, going of the good hold as a gaston getting the crimp above with RH then reaching out left. I could static to a tiny edge at max reach like that but was too splayed out to get a thumb over on it to crimp let along pull on it.

Kingy · January 11, 2009, 06:35:32 pm

Quote from: Bonjoy on January 04, 2009, 09:02:22 pm

After being in font and having my grade-gauge re calibrated I reckon CnB is 7b+. Any other opinions?

I did CnB today and would say hard 7b for the sequence JC describes. That was the only way I could do it. Getting the good gaston as a sidepull for the RH and going up left from there as it was originally done seemed to be desparate and it might well be 7c or 7b+ this way. I found a good foot sequence on the lip for when I had the tiny RH crimp above the gaston using poor smears, making it non-reachy. I would say about the same grade as Happy Campus - excellent problem!!

(A video was done on a mobile phone and is currently being sorted - hopefully will be posted up soon!)

nik at work · January 11, 2009, 07:16:45 pm

I'm afraid I'm contractualy bound to ask if you tried anything else while in the area

Fiend · January 11, 2009, 07:18:09 pm

BTW, was chalk on the first half/third of TML the other day. Stopped before what is presumably the crux. That landing really is toss isn't it.

Bonjoy · January 11, 2009, 07:22:18 pm

Nice work Ted. Keen to see how this other sequence works for none lanksters.

Cheeks 'N' Beaks (Read 24148 times)

dave

dave