[Drew]

Anyone got any tips for success? Seen both the vids on Moonclimbing, and it looks like I just need to be stronger! Also, how come Moony is using the crack? Surely it's an eliminate?

[dave]

yes everyone says the crack is out, with 2 exceptions:

A. if you're ben moon you can do what the fuck you like.

B. if you're Dense you will think that somehow isn't the crack, presumably because you're not jamming or touching both sides or something, hence its OK.

[Andy B]

these might help you:


http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7046.0.html

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4168.0.html

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7860.0.html

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8846.0.html

[Drew]

Poo. I really should've done that search myself 

[a dense loner]

you people are idiots sometimes. i think using the hold that is not the crack is the same grade as using the undercut, or whatever you want to use with your left hand that is not the actual crack. this move is 2a and if you're moaning about this you've got big problems further up

[Drew]

i think using the hold that is not the crack is the same grade as using the undercut, or whatever you want to use with your left hand that is not the actual crack. this move is 2a.

I admit I didn't try with the non-crack holds, but I do feel that using them would allow a bit more space to get the right foot onto a higher foothold, which may make a major difference on the last move. N'est pas?

[ferret]

using the crack (or what ever it is!) for yor left hand to do the 1st move makes no difference wot so ever to the grade of this problem, it is however a more enjoyable move

[tallsop]

Hi, rather than start a new topic, thought id ask on this one....

So, does anyone know what the original sequence was on this problem? being a tall git i thought it would be useful to know how the first ascentionist did it.

From the descripton in ru's guide, it sounded like you're supposed to start with  both hands on the 'two handed sloper'. So today, i was trying to rock over onto my LF, with both hands on the sloper, and my LF on the lil foothold below the undercut, then reaching with my LH to the 'poor hold just right of the crack'. I managed to stick the LH hold for a  while, but it was a  bit greasy on the sloper so my RH kept ripping off. My plan from here was to straighten my LF and lank my RH to the top (which seemed do-able).
Anybody else managed a similar sequence?

Cheers, tom

[north_country_boy]

a mate has done it, much the same sequence, but used a small slopey intermediate, about 3inches short of the top with RH then go again for the top.

Shit problem in my opinion......

Much better 7C's at Curbar...

[Jaspersharpe]

That's how you do it if you're 6ft+. There's a video of Jerry LeSausage doing it on here somewhere but I can't be arsed to find it at the moment. However, be aware that getting the poor LH thing and reaching the slopey top are the easy bit! I know from personal experience that it's easy to feel you're close to doing it when you're actually miles off. I think it's quite a good problem but it's stupidly conditions dependent (of course).

[lagerstarfish]

If you're tall or the pile of bark chippings is high enough, you can reach the main LH dishy pocket thing from the "ground"

[Jaspersharpe]

That really is cheating though.

[fatdoc]

eben for that block a stupidly height dependant problem.

I have to a non too facile move to get to the right hand startin hold.

bizarre how the problem ever got such prominance... unless it's an easy tick if you are 6ft +

 

[lagerstarfish]

I saw Ben Moon at B&Q today. He didn't have his hand in the crack.

[account_inactive]

I saw Ben Moon at B&Q today. He didn't have crack in his hand.

Good to see he's still clean

[tallsop]

That's how you do it if you're 6ft+. There's a video of Jerry LeSausage doing it on here somewhere but I can't be arsed to find it at the moment. However, be aware that getting the poor LH thing and reaching the slopey top are the easy bit! I know from personal experience that it's easy to feel you're close to doing it when you're actually miles off. I think it's quite a good problem but it's stupidly conditions dependent (of course).

Sweet, cheers for the info, yeah im 6ft5in so that sequence should work for me. was intending on going straight for the goodish hold , to the left of the slopey bit wi my right hand. would  that be missing the meat of the problem? illegal lankiness???

[fatdoc]

font 7a
 

dont get me wrong
 

[tallsop]

font 7a
 

dont get me wrong
 

havnt got you wrong, just dont get you dood -

[Jaspersharpe]

He's saying that if you can reach the good hold on top from standing in the break it's 7A. Probably about right.

[Fiend]

Isn't Play Hard just an easy variant on Work Hard, or a hard variant on the crack problem?? It's all a bit "use the other side of the pebble", shurely?

[a dense loner]

yes its called climbing fiend

[cofe]

I always thought Play Hard was an in-joke that nobody gets?

[mrjonathanr]

 
Why is that guy masturbating in the bottom-right corner of the vid?
Surely it's not THAT good a problem?

[The Sausage]

Isn't Play Hard just an easy variant on Work Hard, or a hard variant on the crack problem?? It's all a bit "use the other side of the pebble", shurely?

My advice is... give it a go, if you like it, you can keep trying it until you either do it or you find something else to occupy you. If you don't like it, or think it's too eliminate, or too slopey, or not high enough (or whatever), then probably best to leave it alone and do something else. We're only passing time until we die. It's not a big deal.

[Doylo]

Well thats cheered me up no end!