[cofe]

only if he agrees to go get a shovel with me.

[Somebody's Fool]

Sssshick-a-dink.

[Monolith]

Thinking further...

It's a shame that the public perception of the upper echelons of climbing ability is symbolised by "that spiderman who climbs up buildings all the time. You know, the guy who looks like Iggy Pop crossed with Crocodile Dundee".

If only the VNB ascent had been captured in glorious technicolour.

[moose]

It's a shame that the public perception of the upper echelons of climbing ability is symbolised by "that spiderman who climbs up buildings all the time.
If only the VNB ascent had been captured in glorious technicolour.

Just imagine footage of Gaskins being broadcast on Look North or North West Tonight.  Local news presenters, more used to "cat up tree; cat rescued" reportage, having to confront a terrifying new definition of physical excellence and gimlet-eyed focus.  I can almost see the stunned looks, feel the awkward shifting on the sofa, and hear the nervous laughter as they attempt to dismiss a scene whose importance they sense, but cannot understand.  The watching public's relief once it's over: the world is now safely back within its normal parameters, now they can return to their normal lives, unburdened by any further insight into humanity's potential.  Only the fused pixels of their televisions would bear lasting witness to the power.... a shaven, cadaverous head forever imposed on Coronation Street. 

Alternatively VNB would be dismissed by the public as not being as high as that building the french chap climbed, and the host would talk about a terrifying charity abseil they once did. 

Re Dave's idea that a visting DG should be pointed at the lowest crags the Lakes has to offer.  Alternatively, can't an eccentric millionaire fund / kidnap Gaskins (depending on his willingness) for a tear-up of the USA: Hueco, Buttermilks, RMNP etc.  I reckon a flash of Jade would constitute sufficient "collateral form" to judge difficulty of his Lakes portfolio.  Just imagine the DVD of the trip... it'd be like Rampage but with modest muttering instead of stoned games of slaps.

[Ru]

Plus, I reckon that the general public would be a little confused as to why he tied himself off to a tree first. 

[Fiend]

I'm afraid I'm in the NeilF / Johnny Brown camp when it comes to worshipping Gaskins' idols. If VNB was a F7a+ instead of 9a+, and it was in Cheedale, i doubt i would bother trying it. I realise this might be considered blasphemy.

Hmmm, I think it looks like pretty nice rock for UK limestone, in that great photo in the Yorkshire limestone guide.

Okay Il Pirata looks disgraceful but some of the rest don't look too bad...

[GCW]

Walk Away SDS is a cool line on a cool bit of rock.
Shadow Play is just mental.
Il Pirata would be classic if it was a bit farther off the ground/ not in a hole.

[stevie haston]

listen up, Gasget appreciation society, take it somewhere else, this is the chuffing section, not the I do really ugly short boulders and believe in god club. God alone knows why anyone would choose to do a route in such odd (to say the least) style, VNB is also horrible and could be patioed out and be done in a modern high ball style, so get going. And we are talking top standards this year.
It would be cool if some one put there twopennys worth in re grades in lets say Santa linya verses the mighty Tor. All I know about peak lime is its fooking hard, always tricky and has condition dependent holds. On the other hand spanish routes do seem easier on the crux but will certainly have more continuity and a more phisical element, can anybody else chime in?Thats why I wanted to know which route Huffy did. Oh yes, Monolith the Iggy/ Crocdundee guy, was certainly stronger than 95% of the punters on this board and bolder than99% , a bit of respect, remember he does not use mats under those high rise rabbit warrens, and frequently gets beaten up, much worse than doing grit E10 or E11. Good training to you all, Stevie

[Ru]

.
It would be cool if some one put there twopennys worth in re grades in lets say Santa linya verses the mighty Tor.

When I was there about 2 years ago the grades were all over the place. Some were spot on, some hard, some soft. Some were very overgraded (mostly in the 8b-c range, the easier stuff had been repeated enough to have settled down I think). Certainly some of the original 8cs dropped to about 8b, but conversely there were 2 or 3 short bouldery 8a+s that I thought were every bit as hard as their short, bouldery peak contemporaries at the Tor. But they were steeper, on much bigger holds and were not as conditions dependent. Same with some of the harder stuff. Steve Mac did La Nueva Ola, 8c+, when we were there. He thought it was the same grade as Evolution (which is given 8c/+), but with the obvious difference that it was dry about 50% longer during the year and didn't need primo conditions to do most of the moves. Another very useful aspect of the place is that most of the harder routes have about 3 lower offs. So if you drop the last move of your 8c+ project, you've still ticked the 8c that finished 10m lower. Or conversely, if you have done your 8c project you know that all you have to do to climb 8c+ is put in another few weeks training on the circuits and then add on another 8a section above the 8c you have dialled.

[Monolith]

Stevie, I don't suggest that any man that can one finger one arm a pocket is weak but he's not our Lord is he? After all, you do want to talk about the BEST don't you?

As for highballing VNB, good idea. Capable (?) people should get to it.

[stevie haston]

 :)thanks Ru for that info, Iam not sure that people understand that Spain also has correctly graded routes to. I always thought there were two problems in spain, everything felt much easier in the cold and there was too much wacky backy about, make that three, theyalso get so excited that hey the routes have to be harder. There are also alternate grades available but often (naturally) people take the bigger tick. I would like to add (not dictate of course) that although I think grades are a very dependant thing they are the only way of keeping track of things, so its a dirty job but some one has to do it. Boux is were it started and they should always be kept in mind, problem there is the new mega route 50 meters big holds doesnt really exsist at boux. There is a topic on bouldering grades on routes(kingy) and it shows(I think) how just a few arbitray other moves throw a spanner in the grading game. Other thing is font grades are font grades not swiss, brutish things are often given surprisingly low grades without something subtle added. Anyway good luck training, another 8 inches of snow and I am feeling stagnant, Stevie.

[account_inactive]

wacky backy 

[GraemeA]

I have heard mention (over on Cocktalk) of a decrepit 52 year old Brit recently doing an 8c+. Anyone have any details? Have you heard about this Stevie 

[Kingy]

Fantastic effort Stevie! Amazing work, there is hope for us yet!! 

[Pantontino]

Descent en Enfer at Grotte de Sabart in Ariege I understand.

http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/index.php/

Astonishing effort - all those thousands of pull ups must have worked!

[cowboyhat]

With hindsight this thread should have been called,

'At 52 I'm about to climb 8c+ which puts me in the top five British sport climbers. Are you all shit or just really lazy?'



Well done for keeping it under your hat Stevie. All those pull-ups and no one suspected a thing.

[Jaspersharpe]

 

[Doylo]

Was just bored lookin through old posts when i found this from Mr Haston:

There are beasts in Britain just like in most places, but why(Paul B) cant we have beasts who can boulder, do multi pitch, and do the occaisional run out route. I am sorry but if I could boulder as hard as some of you lot, I would have been straight on Rhapsody laughing my head off and willingly taking falls.

Stevie how do you expect someone who primarily boulders to be fit enough to climb a 40? metre 8c+ trad route? Being strong won't get you up that. In fact i'd say you were much more qualified having actually climbed 8c+ (good effort btw). You know how to handle a run-out more than most too- come on get yourself to Dumbarton! 
Maybe your the man to sort out British standards- E11 at 52!

[Fiend]

^^^ Good gauntlet!

[tallsop]

I respect them,, but theyre not for me, theyre slowing us down in my view. time to catch these european types up!