[Kingy]

Can anybody who has done this route tell me how they clipped the crux clip just above the finger match as its frigging desparate! I have tried clipping:

- off the 2 finger left hand sidepull; way too hard.
- off the finger rail with the LH but that's too hard as you have to leave room for the LH to match and can only get 2 tips of the RH on a sloping bit of the rail 
- off the finger rail with the RH but you would have to gaffer tape the draw onto the rock further right and extend it too. At least you have a good LH once you have made the match.
- off the next hold you get with your RH; this rapidly drains power for the redpoint crux slap to the good finger edge. You might make the clip but then sag immediately onto the rope!

As making the clip appears to be the crux of the route, I am considering skipping it and putting a screwgate on the bolt below as it is probably only 2 ft below your feet on the last slap. I have done far worse runouts in Yorkshire..

[Doylo]

- off the finger rail with the LH but that's too hard as you have to leave room for the LH to match and can only get 2 tips of the RH on a sloping bit of the rail 

did it like that

[Kingy]

Cheers for the info Chris, I thought as much. I guess you must not get too greedy with the RH here otherwise you'll never make the match. This move is basically a deadhanging workout!

[Doylo]

its a horrible move, hard route

[Stu Littlefair]

Or, you could try using your feet?

Take the finger rail with your RH with all four fingers. Put your left heel on the flake low down. Clip with LH.

Now, leave your heel where it is and:

1) Go back to 2-finger sidepull with LH
2) Adjust on finger rail so you have room to match
3) Match rail, still with heel on flake
4) Use matchsticks around finger rail to settle your LH into a good four finger grip.
5) Crush.

[Kingy]

 

Great idea Stu! Never thought of that, I suppose you would waste a bit of strength going back to the little sidepull but you'd be in complete safety once clip is made. either that or take yer brains out for the runout!!

I must say I have my toe on the flake rather than the heel but I will reassess this bit.

[north_country_boy]

i did it a little like stu, however without the heel....i got rail with RH shifted feet about down right, clip, then reverse foot sequence take sidepull/pocket with LH, shifted fingers along with RH then feet back to teh same place down right as i clipped from then match......contrived? HELL YEAH! But it did make a desperate clip easier....most other people i know have clipped off the sidepull/pocket with the LH

[Kingy]

i did it a little like stu, however without the heel....i got rail with RH shifted feet about down right, clip, then reverse foot sequence take sidepull/pocket with LH, shifted fingers along with RH then feet back to teh same place down right as i clipped from then match......contrived? HELL YEAH! But it did make a desperate clip easier....most other people i know have clipped off the sidepull/pocket with the LH

Thanks for that, sounds like the best way is to reach back to the little sidepull.

I used my heel low down on the flake just like Stu said, you can really sit on it and take a lot of weight. The clip is easy this way. To adjust RH on crimp ready for the match I had to release the heel and put RF outside edge back where it was for the move reaching off the sidepull - this is a bit boring as you have to do the move twice but there is no other way.

I think you would waste a lot of power clipping off the sidepull, pretty hellish that way.

To anybody considering skipping the clip, looking at it in daylight last night, I would not recommend missing it out. I think you would hit the protruding ledges at the base of the climb if you fell off the last hard move. It was half dark when I was considering this the other night and I could not really see where the bolts were. I was also looking at the Rockfax picture where the old bolts are in place and I think they are in slightly different positions to the new ones. Also you have to climb past the last bolt before you clip it so you would be virtually on the ground if you fell. Take it easy out there!

[JC]

Did the Sissy the other day & found possibly a better way of doing the crux in the middle?  The way i did it was missing out the crappy left hand sidepull altogether and going straight to the good finger edge with you left hand. This did involve a hard crossover move off the small crimp lower down. Then you do an underneath clip with your right hand.

Just wondering if anyone else has ever done it this way?? It could be a lanky way of doing it   

[Kingy]

Sounds about 8b just reading about it! I was at full stretch just to reach the crappy sidepull so I'm not sure I could reach further for the good crimp in the way you describe. thankfully, I don't have to try! 

[abarro81]

That's how Will (Harris?- was at Shef uni until last year) did it.. think it's a lank way but I couldn't do the move like that despite being tall. What was your right foot on to go over with LH? (or just on nothing pretty much?) I seemed to have to rock to the LH sidepull then try to fall sideways to catch the good hold with LH, but this may have something to do with being weak

[JC]

I think i had my feet in that slopey break thing (the one just before you start the hard bit) if i remember correctly.  I know i had my feet on some pretty good footholds to start with.  How tall are you?  I'm about  6' 4      It is a very snatchy move though.

[dobbin]

Some beefcake youth did it that way last year, i remember him telling me his sequence when I started working Zeke. I tried this way when my attention flitted onto the Sissy, did the move - once, declared it 8c and went back to the out left to the ear method. What a brilliant route by the way. I might do it again this summer.

[Paul B]

Did the Sissy the other day & found possibly a better way of doing the crux in the middle?  The way i did it was missing out the crappy left hand sidepull altogether and going straight to the good finger edge with you left hand. This did involve a hard crossover move off the small crimp lower down. Then you do an underneath clip with your right hand.

Just wondering if anyone else has ever done it this way?? It could be a lanky way of doing it   

I worked two methods of dong it, the easiest way was of course the left hand sidepull but I was told that originally the line went straight through. There's a vague slopey pinch thing below the good crimp and shorties can do the hard crossover you describe off this, feet in some form of Egyptian.

[abarro81]

I'm 6ft 2 ish but find being unable to lank my way past hard moves an insult to my manliness/height/greatness and thus am already inspired to return and try this sequence... I was putting LF over on the usual foothold for the rockover (above the break) and thus ending up doing the rockover and trying to fall sideways to the crimp as rocking over onto LF automatically left me too far L to just grab the crimp, will try both feet in break if i go back.

[dobbin]

Here is as I remember it foot sequence from the rockover :

Once you take the LH ear thing, step RF underneath LF, now LF off and into hold out left, reach back right to take crimp with two fingers on far RHS. Now step LF back over and RF goes far right onto rubbered nubbin thing, come in for match. Weedle fingers and rh to dirty sloper, lf step high outside edge on nipple (it does look like a nipple) and lf slap to edge (I think, hope I havent missed any moves out).

[Oli]

That's how Will (Harris?- was at Shef uni until last year) did it..

Yeah, that's how will did it. He's both lanky (6'4?) and quite strong which is probably how.

[Andy Harris]

i clipped off the little sidepull (LH) as this was the quickest option, you just clip and you're straight in. Was never a big fan of matching as you end up hanging on to long. You  can get a 3 finger stacked crimp in that sidepull but it is a bit tweaky.

shiv matched the crimp and back clipped with her RH

horses for courses

[whispering nic]

Geek central.

[Andy Harris]

infact i avoided the match entirely after the clip by crimping the sml RH crimp right of the good crimp and getting this with a full LH straight away

[Bonjoy]

I opted for the clip off the sidepull too. Seemed like the least faff.

[tallsop]

found the match desperate wi my fat chuffin hands!!!

[robertostallioni]

Isn't this just a solo?   

[tallsop]

Isn't this just a solo?   

yeah man, i just chucked a couple of pads down and 'got on with it!'