[uptown]

Good knowledge J.P.
Matt was working on this guide when I was there in 03 - shows what dedication and hard work a quality book deserves. I can't wait to get a copy despite little chance of a return trip anytime soon.

[Iesu]

just heard this from the ginger monster in new zealand. bad news, bad news (is flock hill covered by the new guide?)

Heard that heaps of people have been climbing at Flock hill without prior permission and that the owner had been turning a blind eye to it, until people started driving up there. As a helicopter pilot( I think) he flew up there and counted about 40 people about, none of whom had been curteous enough ( s'alright if I go and do a spot oclimbing up there guvner) to ask. Sounds like no one will be going there for a bit. you might be able to find out a bit more online.

I never made it to Flock Hill last year, so much to keep me busy at Quantum and Spittle. Geordie lad Speedy who showed me around said he'd been there about once a month for 8-9months which he said felt like plenty. Anyone know this guy, or a manchester local called Borg (sp?). Would like to say cheers for the spotting, advice (i am allergic to "beta") and banter.

I'll be heading there NH spring/summer '10 (with a bit of luck and a good tailwind). Where can you buy this hallowed book then?

[slackline]

Where can you buy this hallowed book then?

Got it from the New Zealand Alpine Club if anyone´s interrested:

http://alpineclub.org.nz/news/2008/the-comprehensive-castle-hill-climbing-guide

[Iesu]

apologies for spast-ickness, i've got coffee jitters and i'm excited about the snow. anyone for a lamplight sledging session at the chevin?

[J.P]

just heard this from the ginger monster in new zealand. bad news, bad news (is flock hill covered by the new guide?)

Heard that heaps of people have been climbing at Flock hill without prior permission and that the owner had been turning a blind eye to it, until people started driving up there. As a helicopter pilot( I think) he flew up there and counted about 40 people about, none of whom had been curteous enough ( s'alright if I go and do a spot oclimbing up there guvner) to ask. Sounds like no one will be going there for a bit. you might be able to find out a bit more online.

WTF!
People never stops to amaze me with their ignorance and stupidity. Can´t help thinking it was a lot easier in the old days, when the climbing community was small and "everybody" new each other. You learned the ropes by the experienced climbers, and if someone messed up they would certainly stand corrected.
I know I sound like an old git but I saddens me that some people jeopardize the access to our beloved activity...

[n_man]

The Spanish trick of shitting and leaving paper round doesn't help either. Especially as there isn't much vegitation, pink/brown blobs stand out on the grass.

You'd have a job driving up there now with the gates.

The law is pretty/very relaxed about risk taking in NZ, hence all the fantastic tourist stuff, you are assumed not to be an idiot and take risk on yourself. Think the helicopter stuff was a couple of years ago and that led to the registration system. You don't need to register ever visit just once and you get a pass for a month or whatever you hols are.

This bit is unrelated I'm just interested: The ACC (accident and compensation scheme) provides payouts on a no fault basis for injuries that mean people can't work etc. This is all funded by the tax payer. So you can't take people/companies to court for nothing on a regular basis and establish a blame culture. Is this system unique to NZ or are there others?

[slackline]

This bit is unrelated I'm just interested: The ACC (accident and compensation scheme) provides payouts on a no fault basis for injuries that mean people can't work etc. This is all funded by the tax payer. So you can't take people/companies to court for nothing on a regular basis and establish a blame culture. Is this system unique to NZ or are there others?

Not related to injuries, but a friend of mine worked in the Netherlands for a period a few years back and I was obliged to visit (to sample the fine "flowers" of course).  Anyway, whilst out there he explained that most Dutch people have personal liability insurance.  Its basically a muppets tax and ensures you don't have to pay to replace your friends deep-pile carpet when you knock a bottle of red vino over it.  An article on it here.

I can sort of see the logic to it, as why should you have to claim on your insurance policy and have an increased premium 'cause you had some friends round, one of whom had a bit too much and had an accident.  But on the flip side its kind of very suspicious and untrusting of your friends.  Fortunately we went out and played pool the evening I had magic mushrooms that trip so I avoided ruining my mates carpet.

[Adam Lincoln]

just heard this from the ginger monster in new zealand. bad news, bad news (is flock hill covered by the new guide?)

Heard that heaps of people have been climbing at Flock hill without prior permission and that the owner had been turning a blind eye to it, until people started driving up there. As a helicopter pilot( I think) he flew up there and counted about 40 people about, none of whom had been curteous enough ( s'alright if I go and do a spot oclimbing up there guvner) to ask. Sounds like no one will be going there for a bit. you might be able to find out a bit more online.

Geordie lad Speedy who showed me around

I met him in Castle Hill in 2007. Was there in November for 2 months.

[n_man]

Quick Castle Hill update.

Spittle Hill has been bought off the farmer by the Department of Conservation. Nice on NZ government.   
Access is now guarenteed and the previous restrictions are lifted  . Signs have been altered by hand to say that access is OK.

Personally I hope they keep them up and the tourists stay off, the place just looks so much better with all the grass grown back. Can't say the same for Quantum since all the car park and path business. Still musn't grumble. Big thumbs up to the person in charge  .

[SA Chris]

That's a great result. I never got up there, good reason to go again!

[J.P]

That´s great news as I´m off in a month
Any news about Flock Hill? Still ok as long as you get the access form from the Flock Hill Lodge?

[n_man]

Flock Hill is still all cool as long as you sign in. I believe that you goto the lodge and can sign in for a month if you wish.

PM me if you have any questions or ask on here. Pleased to be of any help.

[J.P]

Flock Hill is still all cool as long as you sign in. I believe that you goto the lodge and can sign in for a month if you wish.

PM me if you have any questions or ask on here. Pleased to be of any help.

Superb! Thanks I will

[hongkongstuey]

try and find someone to show you around Flock if possible - the place is huge so you'll maximise time massively by having a guide.

I'd watched Big Game a dozen times before heading up there and still only found a handful of the problems (but found dozens more quality things in the process of looking).

it's an awesome spot (almost tempted to cancel the flight to Bishop on Friday and head there instead...):









and last but not least...

[J.P]

Sweet Lord, palms are all sweaty now!
Yeah I´ve seen Big Game a few times now but are most likely to get lost at Flock hill anyway
It´s ok though, don´t mind a bit of the adventurous bouldering. But being easter season I guess there will be other people around
who won´t mind giving a loner some beta.

[n_man]

I am amazed at how few locals boulder in NZ, I think its all a bit more of a traditional outlook here with mountains and stuff. A few newer exciting areas have been discovered but as its traditionally 'only' been Castle Hill boulderings not really taken off.

You will find few internationals there though all dosing in vans and living at Craigburn campsite with the Keas (vicious alpine parrots that pull bits off cars etc). All are dead friendly in my experience and will be happy to give beta.

[n_man]

I forgot to say about Ferets pad and the Keas. He bought a brand new pad here for NZ$400. Before he had a chance to use it a Kea pecked its way through just where the shoulder strap attaches to the pad proper. So Feret looked all funny, and pissed off, walking around with his wonky pad. Flock Hill and Wuthering Heights just aren't that close!!!
Its one of those things that you really shouldn't laugh at...

[J.P]

Better look out for those Keas then

n_man: sent you a p.m