[J.P]

Finally off to New Zealand in march/april and looking for some quality problems to do.
Anyone been who can recommend some gems within the region of V-easy to V10ish?

[SA Chris]

For starters

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3278.0.html

[J.P]

Thanks!
 

[Fiend]

They all are

[Andy B]

i agree with Fiend. i can't think of any problems that aren't excellent at Castle Hill. make sure you don't walk past problems that look chest high but turn out to be brilliant.

This is a good starting point for a tick list:

http://www.tota.co.nz/castlehill/bch.doc

[Bonjoy]

This is the link for the original Castle Hill thread. I think I put all my favourites on there back when the knowledge was fresh. http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,2422.0.html

[Iesu]

um, so many problems and my memory for names is terrible! Also never bothered buying the Quantum guide proper (made do with the slim Spittle Hill guide and beg/borrow/stealing quantum guides off others at the Craigieburn campsite), so am not au fait with all of the names/grades of stuff over there.

Sorcerer's Apprentice, Oceans, Phoenix(?) - Quantum Field

Nasal Slip, Some V5 on the back of the "Nasal Slip" boulder, Tuppi Master - Spittle Hill

Man i have totally forgotten the names of half the problems there, in fact most of them don't have names - d'oh. Will check Spittle guide when i get home. Would it be wrong to post scanned images of the guide for the benefit of anyone planning a trip there?

generally speaking there are no "bad" problems!

would definitely recommend searchin Flickr for this stuff as there is tons on there. not sure of good info as to problems on the web.

[n_man]

A new guide was due to come out to bouldering at Castle Hill. It was due to launch on the 13th Nov. Had a quick look on the net but couldn't find anything. I'm sure they will be avaliable from most of the outdoor shops when you get here. Certainly you will be able to get one from the Roxx climbing centre in Christchurch.

[J.P]

Thanks for the info guys! Yeah, been looking through Flickr, lots of pics there. Really looking forward to the trip!
I´d appreciate if anyone in the know would give a shout if/when the new guide is out.

[slackline]

Thanks for the info guys! Yeah, been looking through Flickr, lots of pics there.

You may well have found his stream already, but if not check out Derek Thatcher's photos.

[n_man]

Another thouhght. Buy the Big Game DVD so when you get up to Flock Hill you will be able to recognise some problems. Bear in mind that the access has changed, so when you walk to the field most of the bouldering is not at the logical point you would expect. It's at the far end of the field where the access point used to be. There won't be much (I think) in the new guide about Flock Hill as there is no real desire from the locals to document lots of stuff. Although I think there will be access descriptions.

[wMickey]

Hey,
I'm looking to get to Christchurch around Christmas time and I'm told theres not much really goes on in NZ over xmas so was thinking of just hiring a car and heading to Castle Hill. Has anyone stayed in the backpackers place mentioned on the tota site? Or is there a better place to stay? 

[BenF]

Everyone will be at the beach or somewhere, camping with the family.  NZ is very chilled for about two weeks over Christmas and New Year, many businesses (like garages etc) shut down for at least a week.  It will be hot up at the Hill but if you get out very early and climb until dark, you will get shit done.  Listen to the advice re Flock Hill, get hold of any guides that you can for the other areas and expect to be overwhelmed for your first day/week/month/whatever.  Don't be afraid to ask other climbers for suggestions/a spot/directions when you're there as at first it's a maze of identical, blank looking boulders.

As for the best problems, what Bonjoy said... they're all great.

[SA Chris]

I found the satellite photo topo in Rock Deluxe fairly for Quantum Fields fairly  easy to navigate with, once you find the big muddy / sandy bit in the middle. I recall Curvature at V4  being a good problem.

[Iesu]

ah, sweet friday morning reminiscences.

just scanned a couple of pages of the spittle guide for general interest and was reminded of a few quality problems (strictly in my grade range), like:

Cop pr0n V4

Slab V5

Blue V4

Acme V4

The Element V5

Self Arete V4

The Letter Box V5

happy days! would recommend camping at or lodging at flock hill station if you like/need creature comforts such as t'interweb (for a price), lounge w/ DVD player, hot showers, flushing toilets and a restaurant/bar

edit: should add that i'm not sure if the Castle hill backpackers exists, and the flock hill station is only a couple of km down the road from Craigieburn campsite, which is free, has no running water except for the stream, has a long drop, has boulder mat eating Kea's (no joke) but is full of climbers so get there for the "scene".

also that comment it "Ethics" about toproping is class.

also the recommendation of driving the "necky gravel roads" of the Banks peninsula as a rest-day option is a top tip. don't recommend horrific hangovers and attempted hand-brake turns though...

[n_man]

Hey,
I'm looking to get to Christchurch around Christmas time and I'm told theres not much really goes on in NZ over xmas so was thinking of just hiring a car and heading to Castle Hill. Has anyone stayed in the backpackers place mentioned on the tota site? Or is there a better place to stay? 

The backpackers in Springfield is OK, as in pretty cheap but not fantastic facilities, they are OK but basic. About a 20 min drive to Castle Hill and a LOT less bad weather prone. Not that this should be a problem as it will be hot. Mornings and evenings will be in order.

Alternatively the campsite at Craigeburn is free as Iesu said. Good place to find other people with pads and spotters as you are going to need them. Also lots of other places where you can free camp and you have the right to do so, don't piss farmers off.

Your right in terms of not much going on. Its a genuine family time and folks are camping or at their batch and lots of places will be shut.

In answer to the original question my favourites areas are the valley at the back of Castle Hill near Dark Castle and Wuthering Heights up the hillside. Loads and loads of potential there. Check out Brutus Rufus V9.

Spittle Hill now has a fence round it and lots of keep out working farm signs. Having talked to locals who know the farmers just don't fuck up their fences or chase sheep and they will be fine. I reckon its just to cut down on tourists wandering in their as it was starting to get a bit worn on some tracks. Puts more pressure on Quantum Field though.

[Iesu]

how did they manage to fence off Spittle Hill, the main path from the road to Quantum goes right through it doesn't it?

[cofe]

when is the castle hill season? (Yes I know i could have searched for this.)

[BenF]

Conditions start to get good day round from mid-May onwards and deteriorate from late October I'd say.  Best months I found were July - September, however its still damn good in the middle of summer once you know where to climb and which problems to go for.  Parts of Flock hill can still be great in the middle of summer on a breezy overcast day.

[n_man]

how did they manage to fence off Spittle Hill, the main path from the road to Quantum goes right through it doesn't it?

A new fence runs parallel to the fence that was to your right as you walked towards the rocks. Its about a 20 foot wide piece of land and has a very distinctive gravel path slowly meandering towards the rocks. At the end of it the old footpath widens considerably and has much bigger wider tracks leading from it. Also occupied by people with prams looking bemused as to why the track has stopped. Still New Zealand makes a fortune from tourism 1 in 10 employed by it.

PS The old path has largely grown over and much of Spittle Hill has now also greened over.

[Iesu]

that's definitely new since March then! I noticed that there had been attempts to stabilise the path (as you come past the stand of trees just off the road) but putting up a 2nd fence seems a bit "extreme". so is access officially a no-go to spittle hill presently?

[n_man]

The farmers just don't want their fences or sheep f**ked with. Access is tolerted with the usual rules applying. I think its more to do with keeping tourists out as its now on the tourist trail.

A bit extreme possibly but its one of those tricky situations. Do you fence it off and keep the farmers happy and have a bit of an eyesore and make it tourist friendly or let the situatiuon deteriorate slowly/use lots of negotiation or goodwill with the farmers?

[Iesu]

The farmers just don't want their sheep f**ked with.

look mate i might be welsh but there's no need for national stereotyping on here!

[n_man]

Some words appear to be missing from the quote!
 

[J.P]

A new guide was due to come out to bouldering at Castle Hill. It was due to launch on the 13th Nov. Had a quick look on the net but couldn't find anything. I'm sure they will be avaliable from most of the outdoor shops when you get here. Certainly you will be able to get one from the Roxx climbing centre in Christchurch.

Just received my copy of "The comprehensive Castle Hill Climbing guide" and must say it looks very promising. Well laid out birds eye maps with photo reference to each one at the bottom of the page. It covers 5300 problems and over 200 routes at Quantum and Spittle.
As mention earlier it doesn´t cover Flock Hill in detail, but gives a description to access etc...."go explore" kind of style, wich i like.

Lots of info in general and good layout/design. Looking forward to put it to the test soon

Got it from the New Zealand Alpine Club if anyone´s interrested:

http://alpineclub.org.nz/news/2008/the-comprehensive-castle-hill-climbing-guide

[uptown]

Good knowledge J.P.
Matt was working on this guide when I was there in 03 - shows what dedication and hard work a quality book deserves. I can't wait to get a copy despite little chance of a return trip anytime soon.

[Iesu]

just heard this from the ginger monster in new zealand. bad news, bad news (is flock hill covered by the new guide?)

Heard that heaps of people have been climbing at Flock hill without prior permission and that the owner had been turning a blind eye to it, until people started driving up there. As a helicopter pilot( I think) he flew up there and counted about 40 people about, none of whom had been curteous enough ( s'alright if I go and do a spot oclimbing up there guvner) to ask. Sounds like no one will be going there for a bit. you might be able to find out a bit more online.

I never made it to Flock Hill last year, so much to keep me busy at Quantum and Spittle. Geordie lad Speedy who showed me around said he'd been there about once a month for 8-9months which he said felt like plenty. Anyone know this guy, or a manchester local called Borg (sp?). Would like to say cheers for the spotting, advice (i am allergic to "beta") and banter.

I'll be heading there NH spring/summer '10 (with a bit of luck and a good tailwind). Where can you buy this hallowed book then?

[slackline]

Where can you buy this hallowed book then?

Got it from the New Zealand Alpine Club if anyone´s interrested:

http://alpineclub.org.nz/news/2008/the-comprehensive-castle-hill-climbing-guide

[Iesu]

apologies for spast-ickness, i've got coffee jitters and i'm excited about the snow. anyone for a lamplight sledging session at the chevin?

[J.P]

just heard this from the ginger monster in new zealand. bad news, bad news (is flock hill covered by the new guide?)

Heard that heaps of people have been climbing at Flock hill without prior permission and that the owner had been turning a blind eye to it, until people started driving up there. As a helicopter pilot( I think) he flew up there and counted about 40 people about, none of whom had been curteous enough ( s'alright if I go and do a spot oclimbing up there guvner) to ask. Sounds like no one will be going there for a bit. you might be able to find out a bit more online.

WTF!
People never stops to amaze me with their ignorance and stupidity. Can´t help thinking it was a lot easier in the old days, when the climbing community was small and "everybody" new each other. You learned the ropes by the experienced climbers, and if someone messed up they would certainly stand corrected.
I know I sound like an old git but I saddens me that some people jeopardize the access to our beloved activity...

[n_man]

The Spanish trick of shitting and leaving paper round doesn't help either. Especially as there isn't much vegitation, pink/brown blobs stand out on the grass.

You'd have a job driving up there now with the gates.

The law is pretty/very relaxed about risk taking in NZ, hence all the fantastic tourist stuff, you are assumed not to be an idiot and take risk on yourself. Think the helicopter stuff was a couple of years ago and that led to the registration system. You don't need to register ever visit just once and you get a pass for a month or whatever you hols are.

This bit is unrelated I'm just interested: The ACC (accident and compensation scheme) provides payouts on a no fault basis for injuries that mean people can't work etc. This is all funded by the tax payer. So you can't take people/companies to court for nothing on a regular basis and establish a blame culture. Is this system unique to NZ or are there others?

[slackline]

This bit is unrelated I'm just interested: The ACC (accident and compensation scheme) provides payouts on a no fault basis for injuries that mean people can't work etc. This is all funded by the tax payer. So you can't take people/companies to court for nothing on a regular basis and establish a blame culture. Is this system unique to NZ or are there others?

Not related to injuries, but a friend of mine worked in the Netherlands for a period a few years back and I was obliged to visit (to sample the fine "flowers" of course).  Anyway, whilst out there he explained that most Dutch people have personal liability insurance.  Its basically a muppets tax and ensures you don't have to pay to replace your friends deep-pile carpet when you knock a bottle of red vino over it.  An article on it here.

I can sort of see the logic to it, as why should you have to claim on your insurance policy and have an increased premium 'cause you had some friends round, one of whom had a bit too much and had an accident.  But on the flip side its kind of very suspicious and untrusting of your friends.  Fortunately we went out and played pool the evening I had magic mushrooms that trip so I avoided ruining my mates carpet.

[Adam Lincoln]

just heard this from the ginger monster in new zealand. bad news, bad news (is flock hill covered by the new guide?)

Heard that heaps of people have been climbing at Flock hill without prior permission and that the owner had been turning a blind eye to it, until people started driving up there. As a helicopter pilot( I think) he flew up there and counted about 40 people about, none of whom had been curteous enough ( s'alright if I go and do a spot oclimbing up there guvner) to ask. Sounds like no one will be going there for a bit. you might be able to find out a bit more online.

Geordie lad Speedy who showed me around

I met him in Castle Hill in 2007. Was there in November for 2 months.

[n_man]

Quick Castle Hill update.

Spittle Hill has been bought off the farmer by the Department of Conservation. Nice on NZ government.   
Access is now guarenteed and the previous restrictions are lifted  . Signs have been altered by hand to say that access is OK.

Personally I hope they keep them up and the tourists stay off, the place just looks so much better with all the grass grown back. Can't say the same for Quantum since all the car park and path business. Still musn't grumble. Big thumbs up to the person in charge  .

[SA Chris]

That's a great result. I never got up there, good reason to go again!

[J.P]

That´s great news as I´m off in a month
Any news about Flock Hill? Still ok as long as you get the access form from the Flock Hill Lodge?

[n_man]

Flock Hill is still all cool as long as you sign in. I believe that you goto the lodge and can sign in for a month if you wish.

PM me if you have any questions or ask on here. Pleased to be of any help.

[J.P]

Flock Hill is still all cool as long as you sign in. I believe that you goto the lodge and can sign in for a month if you wish.

PM me if you have any questions or ask on here. Pleased to be of any help.

Superb! Thanks I will

[hongkongstuey]

try and find someone to show you around Flock if possible - the place is huge so you'll maximise time massively by having a guide.

I'd watched Big Game a dozen times before heading up there and still only found a handful of the problems (but found dozens more quality things in the process of looking).

it's an awesome spot (almost tempted to cancel the flight to Bishop on Friday and head there instead...):









and last but not least...

[J.P]

Sweet Lord, palms are all sweaty now!
Yeah I´ve seen Big Game a few times now but are most likely to get lost at Flock hill anyway
It´s ok though, don´t mind a bit of the adventurous bouldering. But being easter season I guess there will be other people around
who won´t mind giving a loner some beta.

[n_man]

I am amazed at how few locals boulder in NZ, I think its all a bit more of a traditional outlook here with mountains and stuff. A few newer exciting areas have been discovered but as its traditionally 'only' been Castle Hill boulderings not really taken off.

You will find few internationals there though all dosing in vans and living at Craigburn campsite with the Keas (vicious alpine parrots that pull bits off cars etc). All are dead friendly in my experience and will be happy to give beta.

[n_man]

I forgot to say about Ferets pad and the Keas. He bought a brand new pad here for NZ$400. Before he had a chance to use it a Kea pecked its way through just where the shoulder strap attaches to the pad proper. So Feret looked all funny, and pissed off, walking around with his wonky pad. Flock Hill and Wuthering Heights just aren't that close!!!
Its one of those things that you really shouldn't laugh at...

[J.P]

Better look out for those Keas then

n_man: sent you a p.m