[i.munro]

Help! For what seems the nth tie I'm in the forest on a mission to do my first 7a (as a late & getting later 50th birthday pressie) this time it's not tendonitis or flu pi%^ing on my chips but rain!

As a  result my ticklist has just gone out the window.
So, can anyone recommend a 7a pref south facing &  on a hill in the wind so it has a chance of drying.
Nothing too big/scary as I'm spotterless. Looking at the guide the 'Fosse auc Ours' jumped out but as it's famous I assume it's polished to buggery (don't want much do I?).


Ta muchly, in advance, cos hopefully I'm going to be too busy climbing to reply.

[cofe]

this might dry. it's up the hill and fairly exposed (as font goes) from memory. it's borderline 7a though. i thought it was 7a. regardless it's brilliant. can't think of anything else.

[i.munro]

this might dry. it's up the hill and fairly exposed (as font goes) from memory. it's borderline 7a though. i thought it was 7a. regardless it's brilliant. can't think of anything else.

Thanks, looks good!

[J.P]

Close to Tentation you got Retour aux Sources. Good problem and with very good landing: http://bleau.info/95.2/5.html

[lagerstarfish]

Medaille en Chocolat at Appremont - bit of an eliminate as you're not supposed to use the L arete on the way up, but a very flat landing and it up on a hill and faces southish I think.

Then you can go down the hill to do Clin de l'Oeil (easy 7a with very safe landing) and l'Egoiste (top quality 6c+ with  less perfect landing, but OK).

[Eddies]

Fruits de la Passion is a crimpy 7a+ at Cuvier, not high, very good landing and should be dry, if not it wont take long to dry it off.

[lagerstarfish]

Charcuterie at Cuvier dries off quick and is easy to get to. First move is the crux, flat landing, rest is OK. (Jasper couldn't do it coz he is a weak ass ladyboy)

[SteG]

I think (someone correct me if i'm wrong) Rubis sur l'Ongle at Gorge aux Châts has a variant using the right hand arete which goes at 7a, flat landing, faces into the sun all day, sheltered on all sides by adjacent blocs, on a hill and the area usually dries quickly.

http://bleau.info/chats/626.html

[Jaspersharpe]

Charcuterie at Cuvier dries off quick and is easy to get to. First move is the crux, flat landing, rest is OK. (Jasper couldn't do it coz he is a weak ass ladyboy)

Just noticed this you cunt! You neglect to mention that was on the last day of the trip when I'd only been back climbing four months and was fucking knackered after burning you off on crimpy stuff all week. It only gets 6C if you lank it anyway.

  

I think (someone correct me if i'm wrong) Rubis sur l'Ongle at Gorge aux Châts has a variant using the right hand arete which goes at 7a, flat landing, faces into the sun all day, sheltered on all sides by adjacent blocs, on a hill and the area usually dries quickly.

http://bleau.info/chats/626.html

You are correct but it would be a bit spicy with no spotter as you'll probably land on the block to the right if you come off. It's not the nice landing that Rubis has.............. hence lagers bottled it. 

How about La Coeur? Nice landing (I did it with no spotter and S7 beer mat), dries quickly, is definitely 7A and is very good.

[neil h]

this might dry. it's up the hill and fairly exposed (as font goes) from memory. it's borderline 7a though. i thought it was 7a. regardless it's brilliant. can't think of anything else.

Thanks, looks good!

tentation is ace, very very soft at 7a, I can also recomend rude boy up there aswell. and

these

[Andy B]

La Mur de la Fosse Aux ours is not too polished but is quite sharp.

Also good at that area is Sabots d Helene which is fun, short lived, but might feel a bit spicy on your own.

Tendence is, as has been said, good and retour aux sources is great, but unlikely to be many peoples first 7a.

cul de chien is another quick drying area, where Retour de la Chenille is quite accessible.

[lagerstarfish]

I think (someone correct me if i'm wrong) Rubis sur l'Ongle at Gorge aux Châts has a variant using the right hand arete which goes at 7a, flat landing, faces into the sun all day, sheltered on all sides by adjacent blocs, on a hill and the area usually dries quickly.

http://bleau.info/chats/626.html

You are correct but it would be a bit spicy with no spotter as you'll probably land on the block to the right if you come off. It's not the nice landing that Rubis has.............. hence lagers bottled it.  

I bottled it because I was still aching from doing a 7b+ (that Jasper couldn't do) on the same session as doing Helecopter, Charcuterie, abatoire and the 7a arete to the left (none of which have been climbed by Jazzlepuss).

I can't do Le Coeur  :'(

[i.munro]

tentation is ace, very very soft at 7a, I can also recomend rude boy up there aswell.

Looks like very, very soft is what I need then as I still didn't get it.
Felt like it would go though.....then it got dark 

Thanks for all the suggestions.

[neil h]

here you go, i thought I had tentation on video, its about 4 mins into the vid, loads of other easier 7's. the first one in the vid is a very easy flash once you done the first move its jugs all the way, It at jean de vignes which is only a few hundred meters away from tentation

[i.munro]

here you go, i thought I had tentation on video, its about 4 mins into the vid, loads of other easier 7's. the

Thanks again. I'm going to have another shot tomorrow if the weather is as forecast, ie wet in the morning
so all useful info. I've got lots of beta on tentation now. Shame it's all different!

[i.munro]

Thanks once more to all those who made suggestions particularly cofe & Neil.
You rescued a trip that could have been a complete right off.

[neil h]

Thanks once more to all those who made suggestions particularly cofe & Neil.
You rescued a trip that could have been a complete right off.

did you do tentation then?

[i.munro]

No  But the point was really to establish whether I can climb 7a or not & at least I have an answer if not the one I wanted

[neil h]

all in good time...........

[Jaspersharpe]

The sitter looks good too.

[dave]

tentation sitter is rubbish - probably good moves but a bick rock is in the way at the start which kinda spoils it.

[nik at work]

Did you just try to hit g and hit c and k instead? Or is bick jive-talk?

[dave]

I was going south-ifrikan and missed "L".

[Jaspersharpe]

Frikkin blick rucks spoil ivrithing.

[dave]

to be fair the rock probably isn't a problem is you have diplomatic immunity.

[Jaspersharpe]

Git me Reegs.

[SA Chris]

Yew boys fink your funny hey?

I might just come bliksem the both of you.

[i.munro]

all in good time...........

Sadly at my age I don't think so. I seem to be running very hard just to stay in the same place if you know what I mean.

[slackline]

I seem to be running very hard just to stay in the same place if you know what I mean.

Your a Queen (of Hearts)?

[Averageman]

all in good time...........

Sadly at my age I don't think so. I seem to be running very hard just to stay in the same place if you know what I mean.

hey dude don't give up, your never to old, a change in outlook and training will reap rewards. I am 44 and getting stronger by the day. 

[GraemeA]

Slightly  but some useful Font knowledge.

Me and young Norton arrived quite late in Font the other Saturday. Too late to buy any provisions (ie wine). After driving around .Milly we decided that we would have to go into Font to get supplies and made the wonderful discovery that is the BP garage next to the big roundabout. It's open late, maybe even 24 hours, and being French it actually sells proper food and a good selection of booze - all of it at reasonable prices.

 I am sure others have already realised this brefore but always worth spreading the knowledge 

[Paul B]

Last time we were there it seemed to be the only f*cking place that reliably had Diesel, peasants.