Pantymwyn conditions (Read 102864 times)

tunaficiency · March 08, 2011, 08:53:23 pm

yes i live in mold happy to team up ( ive winded myself on pantys down as well)
but i work in the evening and usually go in the morning have wednesdays off so am a
bit more flexible then, cheers

tunaficiency · March 14, 2011, 02:47:05 pm

Bone dry today perfect conditions, does anybody know what firestarter direct into the left hand finish gets?

tunaficiency · March 16, 2011, 03:40:56 pm

not sure, great conditions again today surprisingly seeing as it was damp and horrible yesterday. Was trying firestarter direct into the left hand finish, brilliant ,10/ 11 moves
that all feel about the same difficulty , sustained and quite draining

tunaficiency · March 23, 2011, 06:01:53 pm

absolutely bone dry now, even pocket on pantys down are dry and footholds.

Teaboy · May 11, 2011, 06:25:19 pm

All the routes were bone dry yesterday. Take a brush and enjoy some cracking sports routes

tunaficiency · May 17, 2011, 09:48:33 am

still holding out well, absolutely bone dry as of monday. Even after a week of rain, yes i cant wait to try some of the sports routes got my eye on bannanas and coffee.

andy popp · May 21, 2011, 07:17:19 pm

Will it still be holding out? Is there any worthwhile easier climbing? Is Under the Bridge obvious - sorry about the stream of questions.

tunaficiency · May 24, 2011, 11:03:08 pm

yes should be still dry, was bone dry on monday and we were climbing in persistant rain. yes lots of easier stuff for bouldering, juggy traverse to warm up left of be ruthless
and a slopey v4 left of that then the stand up to firestarter is about v4 and really cool.
There's a v4 right of robert duvall and problem 9 in the guide is v4 then problem 8 is about v4 now after a hold breaking, and you can link the two for a v5. then add the juggy hand rail for hard v5, then add a v5 on to the top of problem 9 for a ? then youve got all the problems in the guide. plus gasoline, the stand starts left of firestarter on two crimps foot up on a little bobbin up with right to a v shaped triangle hold that you get with your middle two fingers then go again for a crimp and up left to finish. Under the bridge is just before the fence and gate in the gorge itself on the right. On the route front, starts about 7a+ but echoes is a bit dirty.grand canyon looks allright and im trying ten year fog at the moment 7b+ but all the routes are dry. Ill be there wednesday evening from about 5 if you fancy a session.

Doylo · May 25, 2011, 07:32:05 pm

Grand canyon is ace.echoes hasn't been cleaned this year yet

jimmykay · May 25, 2011, 08:50:23 pm

Hey, the guide book mentions an impressive looking 8b project to Grand Canyon? Do you know whether this worth a look? Are the bolts any good? And has anyone done it yet?

Doylo · May 25, 2011, 10:20:51 pm

Lee proctor bolted it and has been trying it for 4 years so unless you want a mans suicide on your conscience i d leave it.

theres plenty of other potential new routes there

jimmykay · May 26, 2011, 12:30:05 am

I didn't realise it was his project! :-)

I was at Dinbren a couple of months ago and overheard Lee talking about some new routes at Pwll Glas. I've got family in Ruthin so would love to find out about any developments over that way. I went for a look 2 years ago with the Clwyd guide and it seemed as though a load of new lines had already been put up. I appreciate any info!

Also, I just watched the Sam Cattell video on youtube and am psyched for tomorrow! Great soundtrack!

Monolith · May 26, 2011, 12:37:51 am

Under The Bridge is literally right under it from a slot up a guppy and/or crimps and then upto a flatty on towards a jug rail Andy. You'll bone the crimps and campus to glory I suspect rather than stretch armstrong type method guppying.

I was working the wall right of Under The Bridge for a while where there's a very small quartz crimp in the middle of the wall with some wide footed nonsense locking this with your left hand ultimately trying to pop to a borehole type bucket slot. I never did it, but the plan was to do the old route project (that I think never got done) from climbing the boulder problem at this direct start. Super direct but a) maybe rubbish and b) often wet. Maybe in summer being on the doorstep boredom will lead me here again.

lee proctor · May 26, 2011, 12:01:23 pm

I was at Dinbren a couple of months ago and overheard Lee talking about some new routes at Pwll Glas. I've got family in Ruthin so would love to find out about any developments over that way. I went for a look 2 years ago with the Clwyd guide and it seemed as though a load of new lines had already been put up. I appreciate any info!

If you email me I'll send you a topo of all the recent development at Pwll Glas.

Thanks for respecting my Devils Gorge project, As Chris stated I've been trying this pretty aggressively for the the last four years and its now tantalizingly close!

Lee

tunaficiency · June 13, 2011, 10:44:16 pm

The gorge has finally succumbed to dampness. Main bouldering area still dry today apart from robert duvall area and under the bridge.

tunaficiency · June 24, 2011, 08:06:23 am

All dry again now

bobber · June 26, 2011, 10:20:21 pm

wet humid and hot today

ducko · July 05, 2011, 01:47:03 am

went here for the first time today, wicked area! climbed two routes echos and that small route under the bridge, both were dirty and dusty made life very hard, most of echoes is now clean but not ideal!

tunaficiency · July 18, 2011, 03:10:44 pm

Echoes is dry still, top of grand canyon a bit damp and the extension. Love in the time of cholera and the 7c to the left look dry. Pocket on pantys down is damp and the right hand end is a bit damp. middle section looks ok. under the bridge area is damp and robert duvall area.

peewee · August 05, 2011, 01:02:14 pm

Anybody been there this week?? Will the bouldering be dry tommorow?

Cheers Pete

peewee · August 12, 2011, 07:07:06 pm

What will the bouldering be like down there after the rain recently does it seep a lot? thinking of heading down tomorrow.

wintermute · April 18, 2012, 11:47:26 am

Anyone been down recently or know how it copes with prolonged rain? Thinking it might be the only viable option for friday (or not!).
Ta,
Chris

Monolith · April 18, 2012, 12:07:42 pm

Given the previous few days and the next few days forecast, I doubt very much that it will be in decent nick.

Falling Down · April 18, 2012, 12:58:02 pm

I was there last Thursday and it was climbable with bits of seepage and some wet holds (not that I can get near anything above 7A - did a couple of the easier lines and Robert Duvall) after a couple of days in the sun. I suspect it's got worse since then.....

tunaficiency · April 19, 2012, 10:30:02 pm

Good news, was there today and most of the main area was dry. rob duval area is gopping and so is under the bridge. Panties was a bit damp( need a nappy) but mental extension, sparks, gasoline, firestarter was dry. In fact the rock had that special stickiness which is a joy.