[Paul B]

Thanks folks - keep it coming, as it all helps...
The comp wall is specifically for comp style problems - its not supposed to have much relevance to outdoor climbing (as has ANY indoor climbing, anywhere, imho). Indoor climbing is just that, and outdoor climbing is a completely different fish. We gave up long ago trying to recreate rock inside, as it just doesn't work properly.

Really? I'm sure a high percentage of users are there hoping to replicate climbing outdoors whilst the weather is too shit or its dark etc. rather than specifically enjoying comp style climbing. Reading this statement I can see why comp problems seem to diverge from reality more and more.

although most will have access to their own boards anyway, so whats the beef?

I think its because most people DON'T have their own boards or anywhere to put them.

[dave]

although most will have access to their own boards anyway, so whats the beef?

I think its because most people DON'T have their own boards or anywhere to put them.

Name: "Paul B"

Specialist Subject: "hitting the nail on the head"

afterall, if everyone wanting to train hard has access to their own board then why on earth would there be all these repeated suggestions and pleas for a steep training board?

[Jaspersharpe]

i am rubbish and still want to work stamina on the circuits/routes board.

It's supposed to be a training board and is the only bit of The Works that has hard problems that are relevant (to me) for getting strong for actual climbing. When did it become the "stamina/routes board"?

In the opening spiel of the works, they promised routes style problems from french 6a to 8a, its a big chop to make that 7b to 8a.

Fair point and there is PLENTY of room elsewhere for these problems without making the training board impossible to train on. This point has been laboured enough. Dense - I'm not saying that there should be no easier circuit type things, of course they will attract more custom. I'm saying everything should have it's place.

[slackline]

Surely its simple to make your own easier circuits using the up-problems on the board to the left of the training board 

[T_B]

I suspect the success of the Works has something to do with it appealing to the masses and being a "fun night out", rather than somewhere you go to train? You can't blame em for that. It is a business after all. I only wish they did a 'Campus board and a bit of a chat' membership.

As to it being impossible to create 'realistic' problems indoors, I don't agree. I mostly climb at The Foundry and whilst I don't think the Wave is anything like climbing outdoors, I've recently got into the board there. The vague arete has resin features on it, which, when combined with the bleaustone holds and the fact that it is circa 40 degrees, makes for very font-esque problems. Shame it's so limited.

What would be brilliant would be a wall with lots of vague aretes/prows that aren't ridiculously steep, with resin and small hand holds? Commercial suicide anyone 

[Stu Littlefair]

Just to chip in on this I reckon that some of you on this thread are being a tiny bit selfish about what you want from that board (and possibly a little bit blind about how you should be training, too).

Lot's of people do use that board for circuits, there isn't really a lot of space for them elsewhere as the rest of the wall is covered in people doing the excellent font-style circuits. To say that the circuits shouldn't get in the way of the hard problems is to assume that your rights take primacy over people who want to use the wall differently.

In an ideal world this wall would be given over to circuits and those doing strength work could use a separate, steeper, board. In the real world I can see the argument for reducing the number of circuits but we should keep in mind that this is the only part of the works where people can do this at the moment.

Also, you should all be doing more circuits anyway; even if you just want to get strong for 3-move problems.

[Bonjoy]

Thanks folks - keep it coming, as it all helps...
The comp wall is specifically for comp style problems - its not supposed to have much relevance to outdoor climbing (as has ANY indoor climbing, anywhere, imho). Indoor climbing is just that, and outdoor climbing is a completely different fish. We gave up long ago trying to recreate rock inside, as it just doesn't work properly. I am not going to put loads of resin smears on the comp wall - the problems are set to be climbed as they are set (and this is always done with consideration for the short, as all of the problems in the Works are. In general, climbing is harder the smaller you are - period.) If you need other options, use some other holds. I agree that small resin smears are very good for training body-tension, but its a comp wall and not a training board so a load of extra footholds will just confuse the issue.

I thought you might say that. I've got no issue with comp style probs, I enjoy them, but only so many times over. If the probs are there for fun rather than training, then a fairly rapid turnover is key, especially if re-cycling is not an option. Making your own eliminates/probs is something I already try to do, but there needs to be a greater density of probs to make this a realistic option.

Just to chip in on this I reckon that some of you on this thread are being a tiny bit selfish about what you want from that board (and possibly a little bit blind about how you should be training, too).

To be fair Percy himself was suggesting making the training board more hardcore.

[Jaspersharpe]

Stu there used to be a happy medium of up problems and circuits. Now the circuits have taken over and made it impossible to enjoy the up problems. Is it selfish to request that the balance be restored? Maybe. It's difficult not to be a teeny bit biased when the bit of the wall I really enjoyed climbing on has been spoiled.

[Stu Littlefair]

I can sympathise with that. To some extent though, a lack of crimpy/basic problems can be sorted out through routesetting on other parts of the wall, whereas there just isn't another section of the wall suitable for endurance circuits.

I'm sure Percy and Sam have a pretty good handle on what their customers want overall though.

[a dense loner]

is it a crime to hit a student over the head with a snooker ball in a sock.
everybodys right.
to be fair dave you did pay your money already knowing everything you know now.
any sane person gets a coffee and a weight vest and makes their way to the campus board area.

[Paul B]

is it a crime to hit a student over the head with a snooker ball in a sock.
everybodys right.
to be fair dave you did pay your money already knowing everything you know now.
any sane person gets a coffee and a weight vest and makes their way to the campus board area.

what to use one of the 7 or so different rung types on offer or to head towards the standard rungs? Strip one side of the campus board, put the rungs people use on the other side, add a little bit of structural support (scaffolding if you like  ) and voila, board space!

Just to chip in on this I reckon that some of you on this thread are being a tiny bit selfish about what you want from that board (and possibly a little bit blind about how you should be training, too).

I don't really get what you're suggesting here, do we all need a tonne more capilarisation and therefore we should just stick to going round and round?

[r-man]

what to use one of the 7 or so different rung types on offer or to head towards the standard rungs? Strip one side of the campus board, put the rungs people use on the other side, add a little bit of structural support (scaffolding if you like  ) and voila, board space!

I was about to suggest the same thing. Most of the campus board is wasted space. It's always good to try experimenting, but now that it turns out people don't actually want to campus on small slots...

50 degree board
50 degree board
50 degree board

Purdy please....

[richdraws]

I think the biggest and best BOULDERING wall should put a priority on hard bouldering training over and above route type training. Whether that be bouldering for indoor comps or for outdoor boulders.

I like the sound of a training board on the back of the campus board (getting rid of huge black logs that I am terrified of ripping off and incut bastards).

Any chance you could rustle that up with the same level of speed as the lighting pretty please?

[Paul B]

what to use one of the 7 or so different rung types on offer or to head towards the standard rungs? Strip one side of the campus board, put the rungs people use on the other side, add a little bit of structural support (scaffolding if you like  ) and voila, board space!

I was about to suggest the same thing. Most of the campus board is wasted space. It's always good to try experimenting, but now that it turns out people don't actually want to campus on small slots...

50 degree board
50 degree board
50 degree board

Purdy please....

I'm not sure if combining the training area and the place mothers like to sit and chat is a good idea. Its greasy, ITS F*CKING SH*T!
Seriously though, they'd lose seating/storage and it would cost £££

[Jaspersharpe]

I'm not certain there's enough room there at all. The board is actually in the ideal place already. Percy's short term measures sound like a good plan to me provided the problems are well set (basic  ). Long term a steeper board would be nice it's true but location is key.

[dave]

so what rungs exactly are people considering the "standard" on the works campus board? I thought it was the right hand set on the sandpaper-log side.

[travs]

Personally I use 3 sets for various exercises, these being :

1. Face nearest comp wall - Far right nearest pull up bar.
2. Opposite face - Far right nearest window.
3. Opposite face - to left of 2 - the thin edges not the slots.

I would be pretty dissapoined if any of these dissappeared.

I also use the pull up bar a lot.

[Jaspersharpe]

I also use the pull up bar a lot.

You are Stevie posting on Neil's login and I claim my £5.

[travs]

OK OK, when I say a lot I mean I use it to walm up on every time I come into train or climb - and how dare you call me Stevie.

[Paul B]

so what rungs exactly are people considering the "standard" on the works campus board? I thought it was the right hand set on the sandpaper-log side.

I'd say those are as close as you'd get.

[Munkii]

and how dare you call me Stevie.

stevie is a legend, you should see it as a compliment.

[Munkii]

IMO keep the comp wall as a comp wall, that's wht it's a comp wall and called a comp wall.


   

[a dense loner]

did your grandmother never tell you 'little boys should be seen, and not heard'

[lagerstarfish]

IMO keep the comp wall as a comp wall, that's wht it's a comp wall and called a comp wall.

Munkii, what is your understanding of the meaning of the term "comp"?

[Munkii]

IMO keep the comp wall as a comp wall, that's wht it's a comp wall and called a comp wall.

Munkii, what is your understanding of the meaning of the term "comp"?

did your grandmother never tell you 'little boys should be seen, and not heard'

no she's dead.