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The Works (Read 101475 times)

GraemeA

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#250 Re: The Works
February 18, 2009, 12:08:01 am
Percy seems to forgotten to mention that he couldn't work 1a today ie couldn't get up the board at all. Also Prince Harry had to work it from a standing start as did Princess Leah. I obviously haven't pulled on yet but due to my negative weight I am expecting to float up it  ;D

Paul B

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#251 Re: The Works
February 18, 2009, 12:22:22 am
Good job with the board big cheeses, Dan and Ned its really good. I understand they still have some tinkering to do which I'm sure will only improve things (well unless they break my already "classic" problems)...

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#252 Re: The Works
February 18, 2009, 09:18:20 am
It's very very good.

The shitty foothold thing - genius.

The symmetry thing - genius.

The rules re the above - genius.

The wooden holds - top quality.

The scope for loads and loads of really hard problems - massive.

It totally highlights my piss weak arms and hopefully that'll mean quick gains but this board is so good that I don't mind being a 1b punter for a while. In a session I managed to work out an "easy" problem which I did, a harder version of it that I got the moves on but will take a bit to link and a harder version again which will be an excellent long term project. Marvellous.

I was talking to Gav Ellis there yesterday and we were discussing how things had come full circle with boards. We started of using any footholds, putting in big egyptians and trying to pull on the smallest holds. Then moved to doing stuff more toe on but SHAFT so still a lot of decent stuff for feet and now the logical progression has been made. Use shit footholds at all times so even pulling on decent holds requires twice the power and tension. Simple but it's taken 18 years to get there.

There's just one thing that is a concern with this board. As Dobbin mentioned (and I spoke to Graeme briefly about yesterday) people need to stick to the rules. Although the wooden holds seem very well made they will still get ruined pretty quickly if idiots start scrabbling their feet all over them. The posters with the rules are very clear and make their point perfectly when read but they're not that big or obvious. As we joked about Graeme, I would seriously consider having a big fuck off DO NOT CLIMB ON THIS BOARD UNTIL YOU HAVE READ THIS sign pointing to the rules. I know nothing's goiong to be 100% effective but I do think that would help (along with anyone who is seen standing on the handholds being shouted at and generally humiliated).

Anyway, well done to everyone involved. There really is something for everyone at The Works now.

Percy B

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#253 Re: The Works
February 18, 2009, 09:33:50 am
In a session I managed to work out an "easy" problem which I did

But did you do your easy problem both sides? No tick if you haven't done its mirror image. Damn this symmetry thing - all it does is highlight how much stronger my right arm is than my left (which isn't saying much).

dave

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#254 Re: The Works
February 18, 2009, 09:45:45 am
As Dobbin mentioned (and I spoke to Graeme briefly about yesterday) people need to stick to the rules. Although the wooden holds seem very well made they will still get ruined pretty quickly if idiots start scrabbling their feet all over them. The posters with the rules are very clear and make their point perfectly when read but they're not that big or obvious. As we joked about Graeme, I would seriously consider having a big fuck off DO NOT CLIMB ON THIS BOARD UNTIL YOU HAVE READ THIS sign pointing to the rules. I know nothing's goiong to be 100% effective but I do think that would help (along with anyone who is seen standing on the handholds being shouted at and generally humiliated).

shirley there's still a place for hand-for-feet problems on that board, for example if you're wanting to train very big moves? afterall using hands for feet didn't seem to do anyone at the schoolroom any harm. if you set hand-for-feet problems with just plastic footholds, or wooden ones nicely finshed and not prone to splintering then it should be fine.

don't get me wrong, i like using just tiny footholds only for feet (i did this exclusivley for 3 years in my cellar) but you also want to be doing some big power throwy moves too,  and bunched-up rockover-onto-your-handhold type things too. we need to be pissing in every available pot with this board.

GraemeA

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#255 Re: The Works
February 18, 2009, 10:09:43 am
I would seriously consider having a big fuck off DO NOT CLIMB ON THIS BOARD UNTIL YOU HAVE READ THIS sign pointing to the rules. .

Done. In fact double done  ;D

dobbin

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#256 Re: The Works
February 18, 2009, 10:11:02 am
I dont reckon there is imho. Had we at the school had all bad foot jibs then we would have been stronger still and had better tension and footwork. What jasper is saying is that its evolution, we started with some bad foot holds at the board, but because it was already established so it never really took off. I also think its all or nothing, theres no degrees - i mean, you cant start saying its ok to only stand on some of the handholds, i think its all or nothing. And nothing should be the answer. Clifford and Birch used to swear by this bad feet thing and they didnt turn out so bad, ned and dan etc etc.

I also reckon that theres plenty of big moves on the comp wall and elsewhere throughout the wall that if thats what you want to do you can still find it. Finally, you can still do big moves off bad foot holds. Honestly, I accept that I might be in the honeymoon period and rose tinting it, but I really think we should stick to the foot jibs only for feet rules. Its the way!

Jaspersharpe

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#257 Re: The Works
February 18, 2009, 10:12:46 am
But did you do your easy problem both sides? No tick if you haven't done its mirror image. Damn this symmetry thing - all it does is highlight how much stronger my right arm is than my left (which isn't saying much).

Oh I'm not claiming any ticks. The easy problem was just the easiest way me and Gav could work out to get up the board so the "mirror image" would probably be about four grades harder. The minor differences in the resin holds you'd have to use would probably make that much difference. The harder versions have exact mirror images though so I know where this is heading.

dave - I get you but the genius behind people having to stick to the rules is that it makes the thing quite difficult to get up using everything. This will discourage the scrabbling hordes which has to be a good thing. Plus it makes everything so hard for me that it's opened up a whole new world of pain!

dobbin

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#258 Re: The Works
February 18, 2009, 10:17:00 am
He'll be wanting to know you mantled next!  ;)

Jaspersharpe

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#259 Re: The Works
February 18, 2009, 10:23:45 am
I tried topping it out but got a splinter in my arm and banged my head on the scaffolding as I was scrabbling over the top of the board. Bicycled my feet all over the little wooden handholds but it didn't help much.

Scouse D

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#260 Re: The Works
February 18, 2009, 12:13:40 pm
Been to check out the new Core holds today. These are by far the best holds I've seen and felt.
Would be nice to see some of these down the works, supporting local business and all that. Question?

Paul B

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#261 Re: The Works
February 18, 2009, 03:10:14 pm
but I really think we should stick to the foot jibs only for feet rules. Its the way!

I completely agree with that. There's no other way of regulating it. Even robust looking wooden holds break when the strongest (fattest) people push off them.

Had we at the school had all bad foot jibs then we would have been stronger

I have to say that I still feel SHAFT (& 56') will give much better power gains than foot jibs only. Think of Stuey and PP for examples and then try and cover that board in 3 moves from sitting.
Having said that I think the board is a whole lot more relevant to actual climbing i.e. it makes it harder in a realistic manner. Its like a giant fingerboard and I like it!!!

Been to check out the new Core holds today. These are by far the best holds I've seen and felt.
Would be nice to see some of these down the works, supporting local business and all that. Question?

Aren't there some up there already? the blue ones on the comp wall?

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#262 Re: The Works
February 19, 2009, 06:35:02 pm
Just wanted to say I really really enjoyed the green/pink-ish spotty traverses. I'd love to see more of them. :thumbsup:

I know it's tricky as they cross lots of other problems and when it's busy that's not ideal but during the quiet times they are great fun.

Thanks guys for keeping it fun.  :great:

John

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#263 Re: The Works
February 19, 2009, 07:07:17 pm
Been to check out the new Core holds today. These are by far the best holds I've seen and felt.
Would be nice to see some of these down the works, supporting local business and all that. Question?
Word. Have got some on my board, and they are spot on with design and texture. CityBloc are already using them - get with the programme

Percy B

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#264 Re: The Works
February 19, 2009, 07:31:30 pm
Done - should have a delivery from the Core boys on Monday.

Anything else anybody wants?

Foot rub?

Free beer?

Beautiful ladies/men?

All these things will be available at the CWIF - 7th March

Flippin'eck, we're good to you lot...... ;)

GraemeA

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#265 Re: The Works
February 19, 2009, 08:15:21 pm
get with the programme

We talked with Core last week and were still waiting for a response. Strange, you would have thought they would bite our hands off for a bespoke set of colours for the CWIF.

Darren S

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#266 Re: The Works
February 19, 2009, 08:28:24 pm
Done - should have a delivery from the Core boys on Monday.


We talked with Core last week and were still waiting for a response.

 :-\ :-\ :-\


Scouse D

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#267 Re: The Works
February 19, 2009, 08:29:29 pm
The thing with bespoke colours in that sort of material means muchos extra labour,cost and mess.For a bespoke order you got to be willing to pay bespoke prices especially in the climbing hold industry where nobody can afford to offer charity.
If you did I reckon they'd be well keen like you say. Not that I want to talk on their behalf or owt.

Paul B

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#268 Re: The Works
February 19, 2009, 08:31:51 pm
Anything else anybody wants?


Went on the board last night with some UKB regulars all of whom, seemed to be very pleased.

Its a great all round board and already has some nice problems. Everyone was reading the notices and a few pretenders quickly realised they weren't going to get off the floor and moved on, so the system works.

(ps - my fingers are creaky tonight!)

GraemeA

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#269 Re: The Works
February 19, 2009, 08:49:56 pm
Done - should have a delivery from the Core boys on Monday.


We talked with Core last week and were still waiting for a response.

 :-\ :-\ :-\



Percy rang them today to place the order. We had assumed they would get back to us after they said they would.

GraemeA

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#270 Re: The Works
February 19, 2009, 08:56:23 pm
in the climbing hold industry where nobody can afford to offer charity.

We weren't asking for charity.

And we are very 'charitable', see what we are doing with the CWIF

If you did

We did


dave

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#271 Re: The Works
February 19, 2009, 09:14:32 pm
Done - should have a delivery from the Core boys on Monday.

Anything else anybody wants?

Foot rub?

Free beer?

Beautiful ladies/men?

All these things will be available at the CWIF - 7th March

Flippin'eck, we're good to you lot...... ;)

there are not enough watermellons at the works, get it fucking sorted post-haste.

GraemeA

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#272 Re: The Works
February 19, 2009, 09:19:45 pm
there are not enough watermellons at the works, get it fucking sorted post-haste.

I will let Percy reply to this one  ;)

Percy B

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#273 Re: The Works
February 19, 2009, 09:51:52 pm
If you can't spell it, we're not getting them in


there are not enough watermellons at the works, get it fucking sorted post-haste.

I'm sure this is a direct quote of rule 47a on the Motherboard prime-directives poster

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#274 Re: The Works
February 19, 2009, 10:00:16 pm
Yes, jolly spiffing work with the new board. I think the advantage of having such a massive area in total, is that you can dedicate space to specific things (like the new board, the campus board, and the kids area). I wasn't a huge fan of The Works when it opened, now I'd be buying a membership if I hadn't just bought a new house...

 

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