[dunnyg]

Met office say sunny tomorow with light wind, so vaguely hopeful. Probably change by this evening though...

[Will Hunt]

I'm keen, Huw.

[dunnyg]

I like keen. will be in touch

[dunnyg]

what are cliff conditions now?

[Will Hunt]

What are your projects there at the mo? DWR next?
I'm keen for a trip soon. If you go buzz me.

Packhorse tonight, yeah.

[tomtom]

What are your projects there at the mo? DWR next?
I'm keen for a trip soon. If you go buzz me.

Packhorse tonight, yeah.

Was thinking of heading tomorrow afternoon, but
1. the forecast has a logfactor (tm) of 10.0
2. I'm coughing like a consumptive phlem bucket.

[Will Hunt]

Let me know next time you go, Tom. I've got until the 24th as flexible time now (done my exam and will be working but no set schedule). Keen for Dreamland and Steve's Wall etc.

[tomtom]

Let me know next time you go, Tom. I've got until the 24th as flexible time now (done my exam and will be working but no set schedule). Keen for Dreamland and Steve's Wall etc.

Cool - any time next week weather depending.. (aside from Monday morning).. I'll keep an eye on the forecast.. Steves wall has been waiting for ages & I've plenty of lank beta for Dreamland 

[dunnyg]

Was dripping like a beast today. Projects, who knows. Nothing at all was dry. Virgin traverse included.

[tommytwotone]

DWR next?

If you take up that recommendation you'll be in for a (potentially) drawn out love affair...

Was saying the other day that I've never yet met anyone who's done it and said anything along the lines of "well, only a session - pretty happy with that" - almost universally I've been there when people have been SYKED to get it done after 3/5/7 years of trying!

That said, if you do start trying it you'll probably find my mat in-situ underneath it!

[nai]

ttt, are you trying it with the heel/toe lock in the roof or persevering with the toe hook?

I tried the toe hook method off and on for 13 years, each time I returned thinking I was stronger, going well, this would be the time.... but I never managed to hold the swing after releasing the toe hook.  Eventually I went back with a better understanding of the grading system and knowing I was now good enough to do it, but I still couldn't make further progress.

On my next visit I started working out how to get the heel-toe to sit right and once that clicked the rest fell in to place fairly quickly.  I seem to remember you're 5'6" like me, when you reach the good hold you're (I was at least) so stretched it's almost impossible to move, as soon as that toe comes out you're fucked, even reaching back under is nails and I'm not convinced it'd help.  Give the heel-toe a try, it takes a little longer to set than the toe but it makes the release much easier.

[Drew]

I did it in a session. Infact, I think it took about 4 or 5 goes    Admittedly I'm about 6'0", and could reach quite far from the heel-toe lock. Makes life quite easy.

[andy_e]

For most locals breaking in to new grade territories it takes them lots of goes (like me). For those stronger folk who like to travel around, it's usually despatched very quickly (usually with a local present to dish out beta).

[Stubbs]

I did it in a session. Infact, I think it took about 4 or 5 goes

[tommytwotone]

I was getting somewhere with the toe method but was totally full stretch, couldn't do anything once my left hand was on the crimp.

So, I've persevered with the heel method - until the other weekend I'd never got it to properly stay in and it never felt rock solid, but then I finally got it to stick, in fact I was so surprised I forgot what I was meant to do next!

Had another couple of goes that day, feeling good with that method...and then promptly tweaked something in my right knee and have been in pain for the last couple of weeks.

Ho hum - think I'm gonna lay off it for a while, think it's just one of them that's not gonna go down.

[Drew]

Yay! A medal for me! 

I must admit I struggled for half the day with Dolphin Belly Slap. Horses for courses.

[tommytwotone]

Yay! A medal for me! 

I must admit I struggled for half the day with Dolphin Belly Slap. Horses for courses.

That's weird - only took me 4 or 5 goes.

 

[andy_e]

If I were ever to do the exorcist, the crux for me would still be Dolphin Belly Slap.

[tomtom]

I found the slap waaay easier than DWR... can't believe its now given 7A...
Mind you, I understand its harder for the dwarf contingent 

[Stubbs]

DBS is about technique (i.e heelhooking and heel lock) rather than height, unless you are really really short!  Lets face it, TTT has done it so it can't be height dependant!

[tomtom]

Will, Dunnyg,
Heading up to the cliff later on this morn if you're about (sorry for short notice Will..). Should be there c.11 onwards..
T

[Will Hunt]

Oh well. I'm dissertationing anyway. Hope you have a good session.

[dunnyg]

exam tomorow... better not

[tomtom]

Conditions great today - windy, but rock was clean (no chalk on DWR face - unusual!) and friction was good (though starting to warm up this afternoon a little..). My fingers were not up to the conditions though! 

Sorry both you guys were busy - if its any consolation Will, I have a pile of dissertation drafts to mark and I'm invigilating an exam tomorrow!

[tomtom]

Da Cliff is in fine fettle as of now..