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Breathe @ Cromlech boulders (Read 4014 times)

Doylo

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Breathe @ Cromlech boulders
October 27, 2008, 10:42:18 am
Anyone done/tried this? What did you think of the grade (it gets 8a)? Hock (first ascentionist) and Mickey P seem to think 7c+ is appropriate. Think Andy B has done it also, any thoughts Andy? I think its easier than Diesel Power but probably still 8a, less sustained but very spicey last move. Jordan has tried them both and thinks they're the same grade. Just trying to get opinions together. Cheers

JohnM

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#1 Re: Breathe @ Cromlech boulders
October 27, 2008, 11:13:51 am
Have you got it done Doylo?  Can't really comment on the grade as I haven't done it.  I have done most of the moves but have never commited to the final throw with a heel toe on the shelf.  It feels really dangerous!  Do you know how most people go for the last move?  I have my right hand on the positive spike hold and my left on an edge with a thumb catch.

Jim

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#2 Re: Breathe @ Cromlech boulders
October 27, 2008, 06:52:46 pm
never mind that, whats the sequence on under the bridge? we must of tried nearly everything

Monolith

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#3 Re: Breathe @ Cromlech boulders
October 27, 2008, 07:08:21 pm
Can show you the light if you need Jim. Will be there tomorrow night.

Doylo

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#4 Re: Breathe @ Cromlech boulders
October 28, 2008, 09:50:46 am
Have you got it done Doylo?  Can't really comment on the grade as I haven't done it.  I have done most of the moves but have never commited to the final throw with a heel toe on the shelf.  It feels really dangerous!  Do you know how most people go for the last move?  I have my right hand on the positive spike hold and my left on an edge with a thumb catch.

John i think i would have done it on Sunday but split my tip badly. I think you can comment on something without having done it. The last move is terrifying thats why i put my toe on the ledge instead of a heel. Most people just lay one on but i come into an intermediate with my right (small and shit) and then go for the hold, still feels quite goey like this though. Will have to wait till next year now.

chris

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#5 Re: Breathe @ Cromlech boulders
October 29, 2008, 04:49:47 pm
yeah you should have done it on saturday. sorry for putting you off by tickling your arse :kiss1:

Richie Crouch

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#6 Re: Breathe @ Cromlech boulders
October 29, 2008, 10:36:23 pm
never mind that, whats the sequence on under the bridge? we must of tried nearly everything

- Pull on Large undercut for RH, LH on back wall.

- Left hand to slopey shoulder

- LF heel toe cam

- RF inverted toe drag and sink body left (into left shoulder) to pull more on RF

- RH to leftmost crimp of the pair

- Take LF out of cam and turn into toehook

- Pull hard on LF and take RF out of toehook, dragging it to slow down the release

- Jam RF into rounded hole high up and press HARD

- Slowly work LF down till it is on the very cusp of coming off the undercut bulge

- Pull up on both arms and deadpoint the sidepull thing with LH

- if you keep your LF in the hook, well done you are 6"2+ like me, Tom and Mike ;) If not then the swing is harsh to control

- Grab above LH with RH and step across feet (or cut loose) to get high left heel and rock over on to it

- Grab any range of intermediate (there are a fair few) and pull over LF, RH through to top

- Stand up and celebrate before scary descent down wobbly fence post/gate

HTH!  :-\

p.s. It's probably the best problem I have done/tried on lime! Can't wait to get the gorge in good nick to get it done on film for a possible scouse bouldering film ;)

Monolith

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#7 Re: Breathe @ Cromlech boulders
October 29, 2008, 10:55:31 pm
God I'm in for it now! When Jim compares and contrasts the description I gave him with that, I suspect my attrocious memory will come to the fore encore.

Andy F

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#8 Re: Breathe @ Cromlech boulders
October 30, 2008, 09:11:57 am
The fish oil is obviously working Tom. I saw you do a 7+ move problem on Tuesday and you didn't even stop to ask for beta. Which is amazing for someone who makes a goldfish look like the memory man...

Doylo

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#9 Re: Breathe @ Cromlech boulders
October 30, 2008, 11:13:35 am
Under the Bridge is very nice indeed when in condition, tricky little number.

Andy B

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#10 Re: Breathe @ Cromlech boulders
November 02, 2008, 07:03:25 pm
i haven't tried diesel power, so i can't make a direct comparison, but i know a few people who have done diesel power quite quickly, but failed on breathe.

i didn't find the bottom section that easy, but i suspect there are a lot of potential sequences on this. i also think that some sneaky footwork would make it easier. for example hooking a toe round the arete when your heel is on the ledge for the last of the hard moves, but I assumed this was not kosher. I also managed to cut my back up by sliding down the boulder after falling off.

if it's any help johnny dawes was observing while i did breathe, then informed me that neither breathe or diesel power were hard because they only needed strength to climb them.

Johnny Brown

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#11 Re: Breathe @ Cromlech boulders
November 02, 2008, 07:16:39 pm
he's no fool is he?

Andy B

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#12 Re: Breathe @ Cromlech boulders
November 02, 2008, 07:25:29 pm
did you find them easy too?

Pantontino

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#13 Re: Breathe @ Cromlech boulders
November 03, 2008, 11:41:41 am
Funny what you say, but Johnny was the first person I ever saw attempting the line of Breathe. I always thought it looked a bit squeezed in, but last night I watched Hock and Nodder on it and had to conclude that it is a cool and worthwhile problem. The final crux move looks awesome!

Now for the bad news (depending on how you view these things) - Hock managed to pull off the main part of the hold you use to set up for the crux. Just exploded off. Defo 8a now!

Andy B

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#14 Re: Breathe @ Cromlech boulders
November 03, 2008, 11:54:00 am
Funny what you say, but Johnny was the first person I ever saw attempting the line of Breathe.

yes, he told me that he was trying it without the footholds to the right, like the ledge used for the crux, though. which might explain why it looked more squeezed in then?

 

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