[Adam Lincoln]

What V grades do the starts to the following get?

Out Of My Tree
Pump Up The Power
Rattle And Hump

Also, what do you all reckon the routes grades are now?

Cheers

[dobbin]

A question right up my street!

Out of my tree is the only one I'm not sure of. I think the start gets about v7, the route itself used to be easy from the tree - around 7a/7b, the whole thing from the ground is supposed to be 8a.

PUTP is an excellent route, it gets 8a+ and consensus seems to be that its the thick end of 8a+, I have heard that its Font7c+ to the spike, but I'd give it 7b+ to the spike, 7c+/8a to the jug by the second bolt.

R&H is 8a. To the jug is supposed to be v8.

[Adam Lincoln]

Really?! Ha, flashed it to the move to the spike, but couldnt hold it... I would have though V8 reasonable. Rattle and Hump. V8 to the jug. Sounhs about right to me. Though that was the crux, the start, got the ropes out and found the move from the jug to the crimp the crux! Deep egyptian/lunge the way?

[dobbin]

Unfortunatly, its the holding of the spike that is the fun part. The move from the spike is hard and the crux move is the one after that!

With R&H, its fairly easy up to the jug, then i think the gaston move after it is harder, once you have the crimp it eases off but very easy to fall off after this, for instance theres another gaston move back right again that I fell off at about a million times. For the move after the big jug, you match the jug, build your feet up into an unnaturally high pos and then press the gaston into your cheek, I think I really press it off my right toe and your left is just kinda dabbing on the wall somewhere, then you either go high and straight up which is easier but still 8a, or cross over left to a good tape box edge, then you have to unwind onto it, which is hard.

Ru was on about soloing it once!

[Adam Lincoln]

Unfortunatly, its the holding of the spike that is the fun part. The move from the spike is hard and the crux move is the one after that!

With R&H, its fairly easy up to the jug, then i think the gaston move after it is harder, once you have the crimp it eases off but very easy to fall off after this, for instance theres another gaston move back right again that I fell off at about a million times. For the move after the big jug, you match the jug, build your feet up into an unnaturally high pos and then press the gaston into your cheek, I think I really press it off my right toe and your left is just kinda dabbing on the wall somewhere, then you either go high and straight up which is easier but still 8a, or cross over left to a good tape box edge, then you have to unwind onto it, which is hard.

Ru was on about soloing it once!

Aye, well, iam going back on Friday to lead it. Skin was too thin to hold crimp wihtout me crying! Iam just going straight to crimp with bit of lunge.  I can see where Ru is coming from... If i was going to Solo an 8a then it would be that.

Speaking of soloing sport routes. How stupid would you have to be to solo Consenting Adults 1 week before you go round Europe for 2 months. Pete, Ahem Hurley you silly twat!

[dave]

I tried the start to R&H this summer, could do the move off the lug by locking almost all the way and then popping the last 2 inch, but the crimp is so horribly sharp i cun't do the moves off it.

I think R&H to the jug is generous at V8, but what about the sitter from powerband start? thats class.

As for OOMT start, always piss the first move then fall of trying to plug right hand into the other pocket.