UKBouldering.com

Left-hand man, middle man (Read 2002 times)

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4317
  • Karma: +347/-25
Left-hand man, middle man
October 28, 2008, 08:09:11 pm
What's the deal/rules with the original sequence on LHM? Did it both the easier way and the harder today, in theory that makes it my first 7c+ (not even an eliminate, just a bad sequence.. the shame) but it felt suspiciously easy... For the harder version: From the ledge went RH up into slot thing, LH mono-crimp-sidepull-higher sidepull in a series of go agains with LF heel-toe shuffling in between; then switched RH to undercut the slot and LH over into top pocket. Is that 'right'? If so I'd guess at maybe easy 7c, though maybe it was just the conditions - it even snowed for about 20 minutes!! First snow of the season?
Also, my mate didn't like my beta at the start (RH up to slot, put LF heel-toe in then LH up to mono then crimp on arete) - he wonders if others have different beta for this bit?

Middle man - anyone got a good sequence? How high up DW are you supposed to go before heading off left?
Cheers

account_inactive

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2706
  • Karma: +85/-25
#1 Re: Left-hand man, middle man
October 29, 2008, 12:11:52 am
It felt easy for 7c+ as it's 7b+  :)

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#2 Re: Left-hand man, middle man
October 29, 2008, 03:33:01 pm
going over with your left hand is no harder, just scarier and a waste of a problem description. easier probably for your lank ;)

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#3 Re: Left-hand man, middle man
October 29, 2008, 03:40:46 pm
Think on middle man you go over to the mono with your right hand

Andy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1839
  • Karma: +97/-3
  • fishie in a dishie
#4 Re: Left-hand man, middle man
November 02, 2008, 07:10:55 pm

Jim's right.

from the starting ledge;
right hand small edge
left hand sidepull slpit pocket [some people go straight to this]
right hand mono pocket
left hand slopey little edge
right hand match slopey little edge
left hand jug pocket.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal