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Gritlist (Read 130889 times)

GCW

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#75 Re: Gritlist
November 03, 2008, 08:58:49 pm
I think I've listed all the Lancashire E5s and aboves, but I may have missed newer stuff.  Can someone (Adam, Nik, Andy) check these please and add knowledge.  Cheers.

shark

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#76 Re: Gritlist
November 04, 2008, 08:44:23 pm
Re Mother's Pride ..."Links the 1st pitch of London Pride with its 'claimed' direct finish Which way now".

Can you take the 'claimed' bit out. I belayed Paul Evan's when he climbed "Which way up now Mr Rothko" so he did climb it as well as 'claim' it. Clearly he undergraded it at E46b which presumably aroused suspiscion. I asked him why he didnt do it from the ground (he abbed in) as it seemed pointless but he didnt think it necessary as London Pride was described in 2 pitches then.

Good work with the list.

GCW

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#77 Re: Gritlist
November 04, 2008, 10:55:17 pm
Sorted.
Simon, feel free to join and add your input.  The more the merrier!

EDIT BMC Best Style of Ascents List
« Last Edit: November 04, 2008, 11:08:31 pm by GCW »

Bonjoy

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#78 Re: Gritlist
November 06, 2008, 01:24:49 pm
The Peak E5s list only seems to include the first quarter of the original list plus new additions. Does anyone know how to bulk import the rest of the info off the original list?

GCW

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#79 Re: Gritlist
November 06, 2008, 07:14:18 pm
The way I was going it was to import it into word, separate out areas then gradually C+P it back into the wiki tables.  there's probably an easier way, though.

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#80 Re: Gritlist
November 08, 2008, 11:09:15 am
Ive just noticed this entry:

"Piece Of Mind     E6 6b     Lower Tier, Roaches      Solo. Incredible pre-Fires route from the Woodward brothers in 1977! A tricky arete is followed to a committing step right and slopey finish. Johnny Dawes attempted to on-sight this route, jumped off and only sprained his ankle! Bad landing - nasty - but only one or two nasty moves. Rumoured to have a good Peanut 3 in the low crack, though I couldn't get it to stick, and it wouldn't protect the crux anyway. Has this been onsighted yet? F6c."

I thought the peanut was pretty good, and so it turned out to be when my foot slipped as i was reaching for the top. I touched the ground on rope stretch, so it does protect the crux.

Cheers, Si.

aly

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#81 Re: Gritlist
November 20, 2008, 02:10:54 pm
I'd have thought that it's solo only for the full tick.  Same for Obs Fat as well surely?
That placement looks a little bit manufactured, no?

GCW

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#82 Re: Gritlist
November 24, 2008, 10:10:24 pm
Just finished transferring all the E5s from the original Grit List and finished alphabetising them.
I'll carry on up the grades when I get a chance.

It's looking quite cool now  :thumbsup:

GCW

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#83 Re: Gritlist
November 24, 2008, 11:56:10 pm
All of teh original Gritlist E6s have been transferred.  They could do with alphabetising and the Yorkshire table needs re-formatting in line with the other pages.  I'll get on it, but it could be  while before I get time.

andy popp

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#84 Re: Gritlist
November 25, 2008, 07:17:24 am
Good work. I'll try and add some more but am also struggling with busyness.

Andy F

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#85 Re: Gritlist
November 25, 2008, 09:48:27 am
I've added some comments on the Lancs stuff, I'll do more when I remember which one's I've done/know about.

GCW

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#86 Re: Gritlist
November 25, 2008, 11:12:05 pm
Thanks everyone for their input.

Peak E5s-  All imported, fully alphabetised
Yorks E5s-  All Imported, fully alphabetised
Yorks E6s-  All imported, fully alphabetised
Peak E6s-  All imported, alphabetisationisation begun but not complete.

Getting there, slowly.  :-[

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#87 Re: Gritlist
November 25, 2008, 11:14:54 pm
Thanks everyone for their input.
Getting there, slowly.  :-[
Keep up the good work G.

grimer

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#88 Re: Gritlist
November 26, 2008, 09:50:01 am
Is there some way to comment on each route below it? If I see some info I might disagree with of want to add to, is the only way to start a thread.

EG: from a quick glance, Entropy's Jaw - I said this before, but I thought this was really scary. Do people still fall off the top moves happily enough, or is this still an anecdotal fact from the 1980s? I thought it was a lot scarier than Art Nouveau.

Boys will be Boys, climbed ground up by Tom Briggs. Wasn't this above a huge snow drift, and either he or Steve Adams fell off and were fine? A big difference between this and doing it above that hard ground, and worth mentioning if this is a historical record.

As it stands, it is the opinions of a variety of commentators of differing abilities and attitudes. Would it be possible to sign the comments? As I said before, one of the beauties of the original was that they were all Jon's opinions, and from that basis you could learn to trust the opinions.

nik at work

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#89 Re: Gritlist
November 26, 2008, 11:11:42 am
As it stands, it is the opinions of a variety of commentators of differing abilities and attitudes. Would it be possible to sign the comments?
A good point and as good idea, a rare combination indeed.
It is possible to see what changes people have made, if you go to the recent updates bit and search around you will find who made the changes and what changes they made, so as long as people have a recognisable name you can see who is saying what. Obviously this take a bit of digging round the site to see, dunno if there is a way of bringing this information to the fore a bit more. Over to the G unit for the official answer....

Bonjoy

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#90 Re: Gritlist
November 26, 2008, 12:56:40 pm
I always put "added by Bonjoy" after additions but I don't think other people do this.
If you look at the original site Grimer it does have a long list of contributors, so although it may have all been transcribed by Jon Read it was not all necessarily his opinions on routes.

Johnny Brown

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#91 Re: Gritlist
November 26, 2008, 12:57:47 pm
Work controls not that tight then Jon?

Bonjoy

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#92 Re: Gritlist
November 26, 2008, 01:01:14 pm
Lunchtime window of opportunity yoot

T_B

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#93 Re: Gritlist
November 26, 2008, 01:44:04 pm

EG: from a quick glance, Entropy's Jaw - I said this before, but I thought this was really scary. Do people still fall off the top moves happily enough, or is this still an anecdotal fact from the 1980s? I thought it was a lot scarier than Art Nouveau.


I fell off the crux and slid down the slab onto an old S7 pad. I remember being surprised at my luck rather than scared and did it next go. It was the 1990s  :-[

Boys will be Boys, climbed ground up by Tom Briggs. Wasn't this above a huge snow drift, and either he or Steve Adams fell off and were fine? A big difference between this and doing it above that hard ground, and worth mentioning if this is a historical record.


That's right. The reason we went to have a look at it that day was because it mentions a snow drift in the old guidebook. I went first and took one fall into the snow, Steve flashed it, then I did it next go. BWBB is surely very top end E6? Was the FA in fact done above snow and so perhaps that's why it's a bit of a sandbag sans snow?

andy popp

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#94 Re: Gritlist
November 26, 2008, 01:49:09 pm
I fell off the top of EJ and sustained nothing more than extensive bilberry stains. That was the 1980s so obviously no pad (or spotter).

Tom, did the snow enable you to do BWBB ground up? I agree about it being top-end.

T_B

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#95 Re: Gritlist
November 26, 2008, 03:31:32 pm
Tom, did the snow enable you to do BWBB ground up? I agree about it being top-end.

For sure. It made it completely safe as I proved by pitching off the crux.

grimer

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#96 Re: Gritlist
November 26, 2008, 03:56:48 pm
No, I think from memory John Allen was stopped by a cornice at the top of BWBB.

Just think it would be nice to be able to put comments underneath. T_B and Andy are obviously a lot happier to fall off EJ than I was. I was sure I would damage myself. Just if this could be listed to show differences of opinions would deem useful.


nik at work

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#97 Re: Gritlist
November 26, 2008, 04:11:22 pm
Well there is nothing to stop you (or anyone else) from adding a comment to any of the route descriptions and putting your name to the comment.

Ru

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#98 Re: Gritlist
November 26, 2008, 05:26:29 pm
I fell off the top of EJ and sustained nothing more than extensive bilberry stains. That was the 1980s so obviously no pad (or spotter).

Isn't there a wire on EJ? I'm sure I took a rope and an RP.

andy popp

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#99 Re: Gritlist
November 26, 2008, 05:36:40 pm
I fell off the top of EJ and sustained nothing more than extensive bilberry stains. That was the 1980s so obviously no pad (or spotter).

Isn't there a wire on EJ? I'm sure I took a rope and an RP.

Indeed, but I don't think the placement had been found/unearthed yet. Andy Woodward had soloed it so that's what we did. The funniest incident on EJ was when Al Williams didn't fall off. Al is at the last move and is sketching. Me and Nick Dixon are kneeling on the top watching from a distance of about one foot - close enough to touch him. Al keeps repositioning his feet on the smears and squeezing the rugosities but its warm and he's getting nowhere. Al calls for help and Nick sticks out his hand, Al lunges and just manages to latch ... Nick's thumb. Miraculously, everything holds and Al pulls over. He did it the next go.

 

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