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Gritlist (Read 130733 times)

Johnny Brown

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#100 Re: Gritlist
November 26, 2008, 05:40:59 pm
Nice tale Andy.

I've done entropy's jaw loads of times, its steady for E5 i think, was one of my first at any rate, done after clubbing til 6, then catching the SCUM bus at 9. Defo easier than Art Nouveau and with a far more predictable landing. Have seen friends fall off without too much incident other than spotters getting knocked down the bank.

Yeah there are RPs, I think they have to be placed mid crux though.

Has BWBB had an ascent that didn't involve snow? Anyone know if Ross has done it?

AndiT

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#101 Re: Gritlist
November 26, 2008, 05:43:44 pm
It's a funny one because it was always graded for the solo despite the fact that you can put gear in Wild Thing and that there is a runner near the top, albeit a poor one which is near impossible to place on lead and kind of after the difficulties or atleast mid move. I believe it can be placed from above prior to an ascent  :whistle:

I 100% would not want to fall off the crux of it, I'm sure the ground must have been a touch higher, but it can't have made that much difference!

Great story Andy, I love that stuff.

Apparently Andy Woodward soloed Mirror Mirror as well, that must surely have been one of the hardest ascents on grit at the time?

andy popp

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#102 Re: Gritlist
November 26, 2008, 06:27:27 pm
I 100% would not want to fall off the crux of it, I'm sure the ground must have been a touch higher, but it can't have made that much difference!

Apparently Andy Woodward soloed Mirror Mirror as well, that must surely have been one of the hardest ascents on grit at the time?

I just kind of ski-jumped off the lip (this isn't meant to imply any sort of control) and then bowled off down the hill. And was that not the less direct version of Mirror Mirror - skirting off right. This is how its described in the old Staffs guide (though the diagram confusingly also shows the direct through the arch)

JB, I've done BWBB without snow - tho' headpoint so that might not have been what you meant (v. light practice from an ab rope and again no pads or spotters). Jon Read has done it too.

AndiT

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#103 Re: Gritlist
November 26, 2008, 06:51:25 pm
Apparently Andy Woodward soloed Mirror Mirror as well, that must surely have been one of the hardest ascents on grit at the time?

I just kind of ski-jumped off the lip (this isn't meant to imply any sort of control) and then bowled off down the hill. And was that not the less direct version of Mirror Mirror - skirting off right. This is how its described in the old Staffs guide (though the diagram confusingly also shows the direct through the arch)

[/quote]

Ah, Ski Jump, yes that'll work  :lol:

What are your thoughts then on Mirror Mirror, do you reckon he actually climbed the line or was it just a badly drawn line which then became the route? It says that it was 'clearly chalked for some time after the ascent'....

grimer

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#104 Re: Gritlist
November 26, 2008, 07:04:23 pm
I've done BWBB too, just sussing the crux one evening and doing it next day after 1 TR. That's 'v. light practice' for me  :)

Hey Andy, was that not Mark 'Face' Magowan who had a thumb?


Annnnnnnd......

Danny Brooks (anyone for him?) once told me he remembers seeing an old photo of Nick Dixon rollerskating down one of the classic Skyline slab routes. False, or only kinda false?

andy popp

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#105 Re: Gritlist
November 26, 2008, 07:18:17 pm
Now you mention it, it could have been Mark's thumb, though I'm sure Nick was there. Al was there, I was there, it wasn't my thumb, everything else is up for grabs.

Were you there when I did BWBB and did I practice it more than I just claimed. I'm not sure about anything I think I remember any more.

I've never heard the rollercoasting story and frankly it sounds bullshit. I can confirm Al once took all his gear to the crag in an old suitcase. It made his arms ache.

AndiT

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#106 Re: Gritlist
November 26, 2008, 07:40:49 pm
I met Nick at Ramshaw once, he had a large white plastic bag as his chalk bag, a ten foot wooden ladder under his arm and his brolly, which he was carrying open despite it not actually raining or even threatening to rain!

We did a route together called Creep or Leap that night, that was really special for me because it was the first time I'd met him and I actually got to climb a new route with someone who I heald in such high esteem. Part of the deal was that I had to use his plastic chalk bag on the ascent. That was one of the best ticks of my climbing career. Happy days.

Will Hunt

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#107 Re: Gritlist
November 27, 2008, 02:17:55 pm
That was one of the best ticks of my climbing career.

So it's over then?!

Does somebody fancy doing a bit of a write up on Adrenaline Rush at Caley? Apparently the crux is "luck dependant" and sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Also, the gear slot in the crack/groove apparently exploded. Is the crux, and indeed the upper slab, now protectable?

Falling Down

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#108 Re: Gritlist
December 01, 2008, 11:12:13 pm

Danny Brooks (anyone for him?)

I bumped into Danny at the Embankment early last year struggling to tie into his Petzl harness as he'd chopped off most of the waist strap to save a few grammes when he was a skinny wretch.  He was sorely in need of those extra inches and I had to lend him mine for a go at Sturgeon.

andy popp

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#109 Re: Gritlist
December 02, 2008, 07:11:22 am
Does anyone have contact details for Danny?

slackline

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#110 Re: Gritlist
December 02, 2008, 08:20:29 am
Does anyone have contact details for Danny?

Dense?

Oli

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#111 Re: Gritlist
December 03, 2008, 07:04:47 pm
Anyone tried copying and pasting from the tables when editing? I was going to organise the E6s alphabetically, as the others are, but it didn't seem to like copy and past when in the edit function. I'm not averse to a more labour intensive way of doing it, but thought I'd check I wasn't being a numpty first.

GCW

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#112 Re: Gritlist
December 03, 2008, 07:31:48 pm
You can copy and paste a row, which is how I was doing it.  Pretty dull task I'm afraid.
Go into edit mode then highlight the route name but keep dragging right and it should highlight the row.  Then right click for copy/paste.

Oli

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#113 Re: Gritlist
December 03, 2008, 07:49:01 pm
When I do that, it doesn't give me the option to copy and paste. It just provides a list of cell options.  :shrug:

GCW

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#114 Re: Gritlist
December 03, 2008, 07:52:46 pm
Try control+C then control+V.  I seem to remember it worked in firefox.

Oli

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#115 Re: Gritlist
December 03, 2008, 08:12:12 pm
That didn't work when I first tried, but does sporadically now. I don't think my computer likes the edit thing as it takes an age to do anything in it. I'll try it on the Uni network tomorrow.

cam1401

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#116 Re: Gritlist
December 09, 2008, 02:39:21 pm
Anyone tried copying and pasting from the tables when editing? I was going to organise the E6s alphabetically, as the others are, but it didn't seem to like copy and past when in the edit function. I'm not averse to a more labour intensive way of doing it, but thought I'd check I wasn't being a numpty first.

If you've got Excel the best way to do it is as follows:

1.   On the Toolbar click Data and then Import External Data.
2.   Click New Web Query, the New Web Query dialog box now appears.
3.   Cut and paste the URL of the site into the Address box at the top, click Go, the relevant web page should now appear in
             the New Web Query dialog box.
4.   Click on the yellow arrow immediately up and left of the table you wish to Import (on the E5 page this is the first one up and 
             left of Vanquished) and then click the Import button in the bottom right hand corner.
5.   The Import Data dialogue box now appears, click New Worksheet and then OK. The data will now be imported into Excel.

I hope this hepls.

aly

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#117 Re: Gritlist
December 11, 2008, 12:09:56 pm
I can't add a row in table either, is it a mac thing maybe?  (I'm using firefox but it doesn't like it in Safari either)

is there another way to do it that doesn't involve right clicking?

slackline

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#118 Re: Gritlist
December 11, 2008, 12:25:30 pm
I can't add a row in table either, is it a mac thing maybe?  (I'm using firefox but it doesn't like it in Safari either)

is there another way to do it that doesn't involve right clicking?

I'm no Mac expert, but isn't there a keyboard button that you press that then turns the mouse-click into a right-click?

Just  :google: and found this

aly

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#119 Re: Gritlist
December 11, 2008, 01:37:47 pm
No, it's not the lack of a mouse button.  If I go into easy edit and cntrl-click the table I just get a list of spelling suggestions ('testes' for 'Beau Geste'!!), cut/copy options and a language option but no 'add new row' option.
 >:(

gallam

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#120 Re: Gritlist
December 16, 2008, 03:45:03 pm
JB, I've done BWBB without snow - tho' headpoint so that might not have been what you meant (v. light practice from an ab rope and again no pads or spotters). Jon Read has done it too.
[/quote]

Jon *just* did it, losing control of his foot mid-way through the crux.  Unfortunately the snow drift was at the top, not the bottom.  I was spotting at the bottom with the mobile phone, had dialled 999 and *nearly* pressed the green button.  It was the worst day of my climbing career and it certainly felt E7 to me, on the ground.

aly

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#121 Re: Gritlist
December 16, 2008, 04:46:30 pm
New Statesman seems to be in both the E9 and E8 lists.  does somebody want to make an executive decision as to where it should live?


Palomides

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#122 Re: Gritlist
April 24, 2009, 08:27:15 am
If any of the info hasn't yet been reproduced from the original site, there's limited time remaining to move it over:

Yahoo announces closure of Geocities

If anyone knows Jon Read, perhaps they could let him know.

GCW

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#123 Re: Gritlist
March 27, 2010, 09:11:56 pm
If any of the info hasn't yet been reproduced from the original site, there's limited time remaining to move it over:

Yahoo announces closure of Geocities

If anyone knows Jon Read, perhaps they could let him know.

Wandering through my shit filled hard drive I came across the copy and pasting I did when I started the Wiki.  I've attached it here, but if that doesn't work try the link at the bottom of the Wiki homepage.  And if that doesn't work, drop me a PM.

If I can get the Vimeo Group to upload the fucking file I'll add it there too  :rtfm:

slackline

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#124 Re: Gritlist
March 28, 2010, 05:15:49 pm
On my mobile so can't be arsed faffing with looking it up, but the site might already be archived at http://www.archive.org

How annoying that there is no square brackets under Android OS!

 

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