UKBouldering.com

West side story pebble (Read 7046 times)

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4317
  • Karma: +347/-25
West side story pebble
October 25, 2008, 12:54:40 pm
It's gone! :o
Walked under it on the way to the other end of burbage west this morning (before the damn rain) and the pebble was no more... Chalk mark next to a scar, so presume it's recent??

fatdoc

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4093
  • Karma: +100/-8
  • old and fearful
    • http://www.pincheswall.co.uk
#1 Re: West side story pebble
October 25, 2008, 01:29:09 pm
holy mother of god....

we need to glue somthing on it then

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4317
  • Karma: +347/-25
#2 Re: West side story pebble
October 25, 2008, 01:35:58 pm
we need to glue somthing on it then

A big pink jug?

Richie Crouch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1830
  • Karma: +92/-0
  • G Time
#3 Re: West side story pebble
October 25, 2008, 02:06:42 pm
Drill a mono  :whistle:

willackers

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 870
  • Karma: +126/-0
    • Vimeo
#4 Re: West side story pebble
October 25, 2008, 02:28:34 pm

Man up! 8)

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#5 Re: West side story pebble
October 25, 2008, 03:31:51 pm
Good riddance. That fucking thing ripped the entire pad of my index finger off.  :wave:

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9938
  • Karma: +561/-9
#6 Re: West side story pebble
October 25, 2008, 07:00:59 pm
Though it's a tragic loss to a classic problem, I won't miss having a numb finger for weeks after pulling on it.

Dangereux

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 19
  • Karma: +2/-0
#7 Re: West side story pebble
October 25, 2008, 11:28:49 pm
Any change in grade? I've not done it, but pebble seemed relatively crucial.  ???

St Hubbins

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 294
  • Karma: +10/-1
  • Where the magic happens...
#8 Re: West side story pebble
October 25, 2008, 11:41:19 pm
I reckon it was that Ivan Green fella

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9629
  • Karma: +264/-4
#9 Re: West side story pebble
October 25, 2008, 11:56:00 pm
I can see him in the next Dosage film screaming "Bring the ruckus" holding that famous pebble in his hand...

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#10 Re: West side story pebble
October 26, 2008, 01:11:48 am
No pebble? Excellent. Does this mean it's now a good problem?

fatdoc

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4093
  • Karma: +100/-8
  • old and fearful
    • http://www.pincheswall.co.uk
#11 Re: West side story pebble
October 26, 2008, 07:38:51 am
means it's 7c for the short


AndiT

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 666
  • Karma: +33/-3
#12 Re: West side story pebble
October 26, 2008, 08:07:36 am
means you don't need to top out for the tick anymore  :whistle:

james

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 458
  • Karma: +33/-0
#13 Re: West side story pebble
October 26, 2008, 01:50:47 pm
the plott thickens.  I did it yesterday???evening (24th, but im in china now and lost track of time) and all was good. just be a hero and jump from crimp and second sidepull. who needs intermediates ;)

grimer

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1578
  • Karma: +144/-1
#14 Re: West side story pebble
October 26, 2008, 02:12:25 pm
It's not unusual to do it without the pebble, is it? I think that's how andy popp first showed me, and how i did it. AP's not that tall?

fatdoc

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4093
  • Karma: +100/-8
  • old and fearful
    • http://www.pincheswall.co.uk
#15 Re: West side story pebble
October 26, 2008, 02:28:09 pm
method developed by patta and perhaps mike lea....

it's damn crucial if you're 5ft 7... otherwise it's as james said..... dyno time!!


7c.




andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5548
  • Karma: +347/-5
#16 Re: West side story pebble
October 26, 2008, 04:30:10 pm
It's not unusual to do it without the pebble, is it? I think that's how andy popp first showed me, and how i did it. AP's not that tall?

I didn't even know there was a pebble. Where was it?

Paz

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 965
  • Karma: +28/-3
#17 Re: West side story pebble
October 31, 2008, 05:11:57 pm
Middle of the wall on the left of the sidepulls.  Wasn't Stu's beta to tape your thumb to thumb down on it?

uptown

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 763
  • Karma: +65/-1
#18 Re: West side story pebble
October 31, 2008, 08:22:34 pm
method developed by patta and perhaps mike lea....or that uptown fella
If clumsy types ruin any more classics by knocking off the pebbles then I'm gonna have to learn to climb dynamically. You wouldn't like me climbing dynamically...

dave

  • Guest
#19 Re: West side story pebble
November 02, 2008, 04:56:54 pm
hopefully someone can reconstruct a replica of the pebble out of sika.

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11473
  • Karma: +700/-22
#20 Re: West side story pebble
November 02, 2008, 07:09:51 pm
i got a text about this, apparently some guy called sam. i'm pretty suprised it it never seemed fragile.

i say leave it off. i'm 5'8'', my original sequence, still my favourite, didn't use the pebble. instead you layback the flake, getting the top sidepull first with left hand, then matching and going for the break. it is more technical this way, as you can't pull your way through it, and have to make better use of the feet. less powerful and less reachy though, the result being for a lot of folk that's going to make an upgrade to 7c reasonable, it was always at the top end of 7b+ anyway.

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
#21 Re: West side story pebble
November 02, 2008, 08:14:42 pm
i'm 5'8''


What does this matter - when has anyone ever used the top of their head to hold the grips? (Maybe if you chalked it up, at least it isn't cluttered by pesky hair) :P I'm pretty sure your hands (better suited to this purpose) are a considerable distance from each other.

This pebble really was awful.


Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#22 Re: West side story pebble
November 03, 2008, 05:59:25 am
Some more words from the wise there nige. I hope all of these tit-bits are going in your book

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
#23 Re: West side story pebble
November 03, 2008, 08:12:36 am
No words, just the tits and bits.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal