[T_B]

Being close to 6,3', I casually dismissed this problem years ago as being impossible due to the simple fact there wasn't enough space in which to swing one's undercarriage on the crux section.

Having re-visited it last night and worked on the section up the slopey crimps, I'd be interested to know if there are any tricks from lanky types for the crux?

From the shelf, you have the sidepull/undercut thingy, then the two obvious crimp/edges. I've only seen people do it by stepping the outside edge of their right foot through onto the obvious big foothold, whilst holding the undercut/sidepull, then grabbing the top crimp/edge. This is unfeasibly bunched, but I suspect I'm just wimping out and if I was a bit stronger could hold the position long enough to unravel...

Any beta from 6 foot+ers would be much appreciated. Even if it's just to confirm that there's really just this one way to do it. Thanks!

[dave]

ben moon is 6'1 ain't he , so you'd expect whatever beta he usess on the real thing would work, but then again the recent erosion work could have built the ground up a bit higher, so could be harder now.

pesonally i've never seen any other beta than that you already mentioned.

[T_B]

ben moon is 6'1 ain't he , so you'd expect whatever beta he usess on the real thing would work, but then again the recent erosion work could have built the ground up a bit higher, so could be harder now.

pesonally i've never seen any other beta than that you already mentioned.

Hmm, I don't think Ben's that tall to be honest... Jerry's probably taller.

I know Katherine S was trying it with some weird method, but she aint around to ask. And she's not 6 foot 3.

I actually think the ground might be a bit lower, but the difficulty is as much about the holds all being very close together and just super bunched taking the edge/crimp off the sidepull.

[Jaspersharpe]

Ben's slightly shorter than me and I'm six foot.

[dave]

i'm sure his height was given as 6'1" in an old OTE article. and its not like OTE ever got any details wrong. I suggest you're actually taller than you think J. Either that or its just another case of lack of self-belief.

[dave]

does say 5'11" here, which sounds more like it.

[a dense loner]

i don't believe jasper is only 6 ft

please someone give me -ve karma for my oh-so-flawed belief system

[Johnny Brown]

Never mind Ben, Jerry's the big guy, and its his problem. Done when the ground was 8" higher. No wonder it was hard.

[Jaspersharpe]

i'm sure his height was given as 6'1" in an old OTE article. and its not like OTE ever got any details wrong. I suggest you're actually taller than you think J. Either that or its just another case of lack of self-belief.

  That'll be it. If only I had the exuberence of youth then I'd be 7ft 2.

i don't believe jasper is only 6 ft

please someone give me -ve karma for my oh-so-flawed belief system

  Bang on 6ft.

[Somebody's Fool]

The article in question was in OTE 84. The cover of which saw Leo, Patch and the Hubers standing in front of El Cap in girls jeans.

If I remember correctly, the Ben Moon article carried the strap line YOU DON'T HAVE TO HAVE CLIMBED SOMETHING TO KNOW HOW HARD IT IS in a typeface that required half an hour's study, along with numerous 'magic eye' techniques, to decipher.

And in said article, his height is given as 5' 11". To be honest dave, with carry on like this I'm beginning to wonder if you're autistic at all.

[Kim]

 

[grimer]

i once saw jason myers working it. he had a ridiculous wode bridge  that nearly looked like the splits. i might have been there with andy popp, who probably knows the problem a lot better than i do, so might be of more use. Ask Ron?

[mini]

i once saw jason myers working it. he had a ridiculous wide bridge  that nearly looked like the splits....

I've tried it this way to, and there is some merit to it. From memory, your right foot stays were it is whilst on the slopers at the end of the shelf. Right out with lh to side pull then get left foot on low foot hold below sidepull - NOTE - keep right foot where it is. Then continue with righthand onto crimp, maybe match etc, only releasing right foot when it feels right. It does save quite a lot of footwork dancing!

[dave]

To be honest dave, with carry on like this I'm beginning to wonder if you're autistic at all.

drawing and painting never was my strong point.

wode bridge

is this what johnathon ross drives over?

[grimer]

that's right mr. mini, that's like what i remember.

[T_B]

i once saw jason myers working it. he had a ridiculous wide bridge  that nearly looked like the splits....

I've tried it this way to, and there is some merit to it. From memory, your right foot stays were it is whilst on the slopers at the end of the shelf. Right out with lh to side pull then get left foot on low foot hold below sidepull - NOTE - keep right foot where it is. Then continue with righthand onto crimp, maybe match etc, only releasing right foot when it feels right. It does save quite a lot of footwork dancing!

Cool, that sounds interesting. I seem to remember someone else talking about the splits.

[Stu Littlefair]

[GCW]

Good knowledge.  That's rekindled my interest in trying it.  Cheers guys.