[kenapplegate]

Whilst out in Font last week, I came across and climbed a problem that I have no idea what it's name is or what its grade is. The reason I'm asking is that rumours are that it's 7a, however, if it were to be 7a, it would be my first, which is why I'm keen to know.

Its on the boulder in between 44 (in Fontainebleau Climbs) on which L'helicoptere and l'abattoir are on, and 41, on which Cortomaltese is on.
The route is in the centre of the boulder, and starts on a hand slot beneath an almost featureless buldge. It then heads to the right into again, a near perfectly formed semi-circular groove, with very little in, bar a slight side pull on the left hand side of the groove.

Any ideas? There is a route going about 5b to the left of it, again, which is not in any of my guidebooks.

Oh and I won't be disappointed if it wasn't 7a, as it didn't feel that desperate.

[GCW]

Isn't the Corto Maltese boulder next to the Carnage/ l'Abbe Resina 9la Berezina) bloc?

[neil h]

i know the boulder, sorry but not 7a. I am trying to find it for you on bleau.


I think its somewere around the 6b mark

i will keep you posted

[neil h]

found it its an innemaed 6c, no point in linking it as there is no info, but people recon between 6a+ and 6c

[neil h]

thought i would give you the link just in case, Its defo the boulder you are on about http://bleau.info/cuvier/8363.html

[kenapplegate]

Thanks, I didn't think it was possibly 7a, just an american did say it was.  There's no way I could flash 7a!

[Jim]

Your first font 7a is a mighty prize indeed, a shame you haven't got it yet.
Perhaps if you start a thread of soft touch 7a's in font this may give you something to go on.
For starters I'd try solitaire at haute-plaines or clin d'oil at aprament. The only 2 7a's I've flashed and I think they both got (6c+) in the guidebook next to them but I'm taking the 7a.
I tell you what won't be on that list is joker at cuvier, one day I might get to the top but I doubt it

[Jaspersharpe]

Perhaps if you start a thread of soft touch 7a's in font this may give you something to go on.

I tell you what won't be on that list is joker at cuvier, one day I might get to the top but I doubt it

Soft Touch 7As in Font:

1. La Joker - a bit shit but easy for the grade.

Thanks, I didn't think it was possibly 7a, just an american did say it was.  There's no way I could flash 7a!

Beware Americans bearing false grades. 

[SA Chris]

Beware Americans in general (except blunk).

[Richie Crouch]

Soft 7a's

Clin d'Oeil, Bizaare Bizaare, l'arignee, graviton, egoiste, fleur de path(rhum)

Get to it! 

[Paul B]

Soft 7a's

Clin d'Oeil, Bizaare Bizaare, l'arignee, graviton, egoiste, fleur de path(rhum)

Get to it! 

Bizaare Bizaare - utter rubbish
egoiste isn't this 6c ish unless you do it from the sitter?

[Jim]

7a+ from a sitter

[Drew]

La Joker - a bit shit but easy for the grade.

Clin d'Oeil

Can I admit that I found both of these hard? Corto Maltese is the easiest 7a ever (6c in reality), especially if you've got long arms.

[dave k]

Soft 7a's

Clin d'Oeil, Bizaare Bizaare, l'arignee, graviton, egoiste, fleur de path(rhum)

Get to it! 

Graviton is a quite a give away- but it also used to be 7b!!- it does depend whether you have been practising your gritstone topout back home for years.

Le Joker - is NOT easy for 7a!! Most people find it pretty nails. Its also the first 7a is the Forest

[The Sausage]

...I think Cortomaltese has been chipped, and hence isn't 7a anymore...

[BenF]

...I think Cortomaltese has been chipped, and hence isn't 7a anymore...

It's down to 6b+ now I believe.

To clarify: Egoiste is 6c+ from standing and as Jim says, 7a+ from sitting (but a bargain at that I'd say).  A good problem either way though, too good to walk past anyway.

[Jaspersharpe]

Graviton is a quite a give away- but it also used to be 7b!!- it does depend whether you have been practising your gritstone topout back home for years.

Le Joker - is NOT easy for 7a!! Most people find it pretty nails. Its also the first 7a is the Forest

Horses for courses. If you can crimp then La Joker is piss. Of the problems of that grade I did when I'd recently started climbing again I found it the easiest as it suited my strong fingers and weak arms. Also, first 7A it may be but it's not a good problem.

[neil h]

the joker, is a fuking joke, stay away


7a my arse, mind you i have seen punters flash it, but I cant get anywere near it, its got one of those shit moves you can either do or cant

There are so many good 7's out there. check my vimeo account for all the best 7's in the forest. http://www.vimeo.com/user698558/videos


anyway graviton is yet another joker problem, i piss it but all my mates cant touch it, but beware of bad beta, if you go left its only 6b, if you use the holds out right 6c, you have to go as direct as pos for the 7a tick

[dave]

joker is fairly easy but total rubbish.

graviton is only OK in good nick, but is a poor problem anyway compared to most of font - easy climbing up to a grovely topout, you might as well stay at mothers pets rock.

Clin d'Oeil is only "easy" cos most people rock onto the big hold on the right which isn't the "original" loacs way, hence its really a 6c or 6c+ problem masquerading as a 7.

araignee isn't particularly easy for 7a - most people get totally shut down on it. strangely bloe.co.ck says "chipped hold in the end of 2006..." - where the fuck is the alleged chip? i don't remember anything.

[neil h]

joker is fairly easy but total rubbish.

graviton is only OK in good nick, but is a poor problem anyway compared to most of font - easy climbing up to a grovely topout, you might as well stay at mothers pets rock.

Clin d'Oeil is only "easy" cos most people rock onto the big hold on the right which isn't the "original" loacs way, hence its really a 6c or 6c+ problem masquerading as a 7.

araignee isn't particularly easy for 7a - most people get totally shut down on it. strangely bloe.co.ck says "chipped hold in the end of 2006..." - where the fuck is the alleged chip? i don't remember anything.

well said, but ye there aint ni chipped hold on araingnne, maybe they mean the amount of pof on it has made the foot holds bigger

[nik at work]

Is graviton the thing on the back of the salle gosse block? Up a flake or summat to a slopy top? If so a complete gift at 7a if you get a good sequence (and no groveling) but easy to get stuck on a number of much harder methods. I thought it was quite a nice problem, horses for courses....

[lagerstarfish]

Clin d'Oeil is only "easy" cos most people rock onto the big hold on the right which isn't the "original" loacs way, hence its really a 6c or 6c+ problem masquerading as a 7.

I did it using the RH side crimp, LH slopey dish thing, RF in the low pockety break thing and slap for the top. Is that the 7a method?

[dave]

yeah.

well said, but ye there aint ni chipped hold on araingnne, maybe they mean the amount of pof on it has made the foot holds bigger

well technically I think the LH undercut at the start is chipped, as is possible the big horizontal topout hold on charcuterie, but I'm sure both of these date back to the '60s when most of the cuvier classics were originally chipped, so deffo not 2006. Will check it out next week since its on my cuvier warmup circuit (look at me).