[dave k]

Ther is a good looking problem/project just right of this traverse. Not mentioned in either bouldering/climbing guide - don't think its riding the gravy train start- just left of it I think. really obvious- I was very surprised it wasn`t mentioned as a project

Rel easy to get a hand on an undercling flake - difficult to match- nice line.

Anyone know what I am talking about? 

[AndiT]

On the steep wall to the right of the start? Gritty flake, then long move to the lip?

[dave k]

Sounds like the one i saw- appeared harder to get hold of the flake with both hands, than to make the final move. You had a go on this?

[AndiT]

It's an oldish problem. I don't know who did it first but it has always been a 'set' problem since i've lived in staffs (8 years). Good problem though.

Andi

[dave k]

Makes sense it has been climbed. Such an obvious line. Surprised RU and Staffs guides didn`t mention it.
What is the consensus on the grade?
Do you use the layaway side pull with the left hand to reach the flake with the right or just lunge with the left?

[AndiT]

Lunge! Don't know about the grade, 7a+? There are millions of problems missing out of both guides, it was probably left out because the hold is snappy. Cheers.

[AndiT]

Definitely know the problem you mean now, it's not the one I was thinking of, atleast not in the way you're talking about. I was a flake to the left in my thoughts.

I'll do some more checking first, I have heard form Mark Sharratt that something was done up here, but that's a shady old memory and could be wrong. Thought I'd check on here first as this was the last place I heard anything about it....

[Andy B]

I've tried, but not done, this problem, and I'm pretty sure it's a fair bit harder than 7a+, unless it drifts or bridges further left than I was trying. I think the undercut/ backhand wouldn't take much of a battering. If I remeber rightly, I was under the impression that it was the start of a fairly hard route, that continued up the second half of the buttress, or does that have an indirect start?

[AndiT]

Yeah, it'll be considerably harder than 7a+. Me and Mini have been on it tonight and have slapped the top jug a few times. I'd not tried it before, but I'd always thought it'd been done as a dyno, but actually trying it I've realised that this is very unlikely.

Using the obvious holds (i.e. not climbing the easy line to thew left) the footholds are pretty limited due to the physics of the holds.

As for it being the start to a hard route above (Riding the Gravy Train) it doesn't seem so, although the line in the guide runs pretty close, but I'm of the impression that this route actually starts up the crack/groove to right. It'd be a very contrived start to the route. Maybe if anyone knows Sean Myles they could peck his head for this? It'd be useful for the guide reprint.

Hopefully get it ticked soon, whether it's been done before or not!

[Andy B]

I, perhaps naively, assumed the line of the route in the guide was correct.

[dave k]

Andy- your previous message put me off trying it (shit was that in 06). Didn`t want to snap off the flake. Sounds like I was getting to a similar place as you and mini- It probably suits a fair bit of lank.

[AndiT]

Lank gains the top hold. I was finding I couldn't spring at all so just uncoiled for the top. Let me know if you fancy another look.

[mini]

May suit to contortionists out there!

Its certainly not a set problem, been a West-sider for 16 years and never seen it chalked or mentioned, hence having a play. How long that top flake will last will be a matter of time, but at the moment it seems pretty solid

[dave k]

I was planning a trip to Baldstones this weekend. Either Saturday afternoon or Sunday morning (weather depending). I am focused on another hard "possible" project in the vicinity. Maybe we could have a look at both.

[AndiT]

I know your project....

[dave k]

That sounds ominous!!! Never has the saying - "lock up your projects" been more appropriate.

Judging by your rapid dispatch of the project/problem last night I had better get a riggle on. Another "new" addition to the Baldstones circuit. Are you going to christen it?

Have you had a play on said secret project? (aka Clever Skin LH). As you said last night- rather thin. Start might favour the sub 6ft- (rather bunched high RF). But the top section is definitely one for the long. Avoids the pebbles on Clever Skin which has to be an improvement!!

[AndiT]

Yeah, those clever skin pebbles are grim these days.

No, not been on your version, looks well hard! I'll definitely give it a bash when you've done it.

No name as yet for new/old problem, will have to do a bit more digging first to make sure it's a FA, its grade is 7. Was pleased to tick it either way.

[mark s]

sure it was the same thing james did a few years ago.