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Pebble Wall (Read 25465 times)

Stubbs

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#25 Re: Pebble Wall
October 13, 2008, 05:51:55 pm
Some people seem to have a problem moving their right foot a foot to the left, i've never really understood why ;)  even with good beta i think it's hard for v5.

The Sausage

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#26 Re: Pebble Wall
October 13, 2008, 05:59:03 pm
Some people seem to have a problem moving their right foot a foot to the left, i've never really understood why ;)  even with good beta i think it's hard for v5.

...come on Stubbs, you saw Ben's shin last weekend when he fluffed this move...

I (finally) managed pebble wall last weekend. The grades seem right to me, they're about as opposite in style as problems get. And obviously, both totally brilliant.

Stubbs

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#27 Re: Pebble Wall
October 13, 2008, 07:01:14 pm
Of course i was joking, the hop is one of the oddest moves i've ever done and takes a lot of faith (yes i know it can be done without...)

Jim

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#28 Re: Pebble Wall
October 13, 2008, 08:18:01 pm
I tried this again today and didn't manage it. mainly due to the fact it was blowing a gale
damn it!!!!

webbo

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#29 Re: Pebble Wall
October 14, 2008, 10:00:22 am
i too have done pebble wall but not demon wall roof.i first did p.w. in e.b.s spotted by one ronald fawcett,i think he managed it for the first time that day as well.

Will Hunt

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#30 Re: Pebble Wall
November 08, 2008, 09:34:40 pm
It seems odd that Pebble Wall destroyed so many good climbers on here. I've tried it once before in the heat and slipped off it plenty and then got back on it today and after a few goes got the knack of it and pulverised it.

Hands in the break, right foot onto a nubin. Right hand out to the good crimp then stand up and pop your left foot onto the break (heel/toe action unnecessary and a bit dangerous and unnerving). Undercut the break with your left and squeeze hard to keep the weight down on the feet while you shift your right hand up to the first pebble.
Stand and stand and stand until you can reach the second pebble with left hand. Once both hands are on the pebbles you know you've got it. Keep standing some more and go for the top on the left hand side.

It cant be proper V5 like that because I did about 4 laps on it today and once I'd done it once I couldn't fall off it. Sorry if it sounds a bit cocky but I was fairly SYKED to get it  :guilty:

Steve R

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#31 Re: Pebble Wall
November 08, 2008, 10:01:47 pm

It cant be proper V5 like that :guilty:

true enough, v7 at least...

magpie

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#32 Re: Pebble Wall
November 08, 2008, 11:04:48 pm
One word: LANK

 8)

GCW

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#33 Re: Pebble Wall
November 08, 2008, 11:17:13 pm
One word: LANK


I haven't managed it yet  :-[
And Mr At Work flashed it, but he is the SlabMasterTM

magpie

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#34 Re: Pebble Wall
November 08, 2008, 11:23:05 pm
To be fair to the youth, it was a very good effort on his part.  I'm just bitter (and very, very short and weak).

Fiend

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#35 Re: Pebble Wall
November 08, 2008, 11:26:27 pm
LOL.

She's right, Will's is the lanky sequence. If you can do it that way, fair play. But most people have to do "something" with that right foot.

Put me in the fat and weak camp at the moment BTW.

Hmmmm....does the fat and weak camp have a mini-bar? And toasted sarnie maker?

robertostallioni

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#36 Re: Pebble Wall
November 08, 2008, 11:43:22 pm
Don't know about the mini-bar, but I've just got back from Fat Camp - and i feel a bit of a cock(Almscliff tomorrow)

Will Hunt

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#37 Re: Pebble Wall
November 09, 2008, 12:06:58 am
Dont do it!
http://www.metcheck.com/V40/UK/FREE/today.asp?zipcode=almscliff

I hope your projects are steep.


I belong in weak camp but I dont think I could push the gate open to get in.

SA Chris

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#38 Re: Pebble Wall
November 09, 2008, 07:48:00 am
One word: LANK

 8)

That's not the lank sequence. One of the ways I used to do it was from right hand on good hold and left foot in good cup (no heel and toe either), turn left hip in slightly and reach up to top pebble with left. Move right foot to left onto smeary edge and pop left for the top. I think I first saw streaky do it that way.

Will Hunt

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#39 Re: Pebble Wall
November 09, 2008, 03:59:52 pm
 :o
LANK!

Sypeland

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#40 Re: Pebble Wall
November 10, 2008, 11:23:22 am
One word: LANK


I haven't managed it yet  :-[
And Mr At Work flashed it, but he is the SlabMasterTM

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/video.html?id=almscliff__pebble_wall
Assuming this is Mr A? His R foot start on a hold R of the usual nubbin first foot hold. Looks like a better sequence and the best I've seen.

Fiend

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#41 Re: Pebble Wall
November 10, 2008, 11:34:23 am
That's Slim Jim. Mr At Work is shorter and hairier.

The foot cross-through does look like a good sequence although I was finding the right foot hop-up piss anyway, just not the next bit.

alaan

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#42 Re: Pebble Wall
November 10, 2008, 12:31:42 pm
A sequence that avoids any scary heel-hooking or silly hopping:

Right hand onto good crimp up and right, left hand jam (key!), cross through RF onto nubbin and RH onto first pebble, bring the your left toe into the little cup in the break and...stand/pop up with the help of the second pebble. Easy.  8)

Simply brilliant problem - yet to find an equivalent in the Peak...

Al

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#43 Re: Pebble Wall
November 10, 2008, 12:38:07 pm
I think that the critical beta for anyone that has to climb this properly (ie. shorties) is to thumb press on the right pebble and rockover onto your left foot. Just remember it's a rockover, not a static reach (lank).

magpie

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#44 Re: Pebble Wall
November 10, 2008, 12:54:47 pm
That would probably have been helpful to us at the weekend; good to know for the next attempt.

dave

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#45 Re: Pebble Wall
November 10, 2008, 01:12:43 pm
who's this "Ian K" everyone is banging on about?

SA Chris

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#46 Re: Pebble Wall
November 10, 2008, 01:45:20 pm
he is from IanKaster.

nik at work

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#47 Re: Pebble Wall
November 10, 2008, 03:16:57 pm
In the interests of maintaining an accurate history I didn't flash Pebble Wall, I had a previous attempt in gale force conditions with Jim several days earlier which ended in failure. I will hand in my Slabmaster TM badge post haste.

I actually thought it was pretty steady at the grade (without lanky cheating), but what do I know?

andy popp

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#48 Re: Pebble Wall
November 10, 2008, 04:02:06 pm
I flashed it. Rather frighteningly, from a purely personal perspective, this event took place in 1984!

Will Hunt

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#49 Re: Pebble Wall
September 02, 2009, 04:25:58 pm
I used to piss all over this problem and since injury haven't managed it  :(

As a point of interest I never used to heel toe lock but still managed to take the nightmare fall last time I tried it. Was just about to get the second pebble and fell. Foot stayed in the break most of the way down until the last minute. Landed like a beetle on my back. Fortunately hit the pad very well and just had the wind knocked out of me for a few minutes but it could have been worse without pads. Funnily enough I haven't been back for more since then. Yet.

 

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