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Mark`s Roof Direct (Read 5553 times)

dave k

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Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 01:57:53 pm
There are only 2 claims for this on 8a.nu- both claim it is soft with beta!

Anyone know what they are talking about. All I remember is awesome slopers. Felt really conditions dependent.

dave

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#1 Re: Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 02:01:08 pm
banks has done it. as per.

Jim

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#2 Re: Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 02:05:09 pm
uncle did it a couple of years ago. I wouldn't say it was soft tbh

dave k

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#3 Re: Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 02:09:58 pm
There was a discussion on here a while back in which someone apologised to Ru for something- a variant he had climbed rather than Mark's Roof direct- could that be the soft approach- he said definitley not 7c.


r-man

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#4 Re: Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 02:11:53 pm
Seen it done by leaping from the jugs to the good sloper. Probably not the best beta for most people.

Crap video here:


Krank

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#5 Re: Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 02:15:02 pm
Dont worry dave i will show ya the way ;)

dave k

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#6 Re: Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 02:27:58 pm
Dont worry dave i will show ya the way ;)

Heading out that way on Friday if you can get out (looks like perfect conditions)- weather for the weekend is shite too.

I can see the logic of a big throw- I had tried to get left foot locked in and match on what I think are lower crapper slopers.


Krank

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#7 Re: Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 02:32:58 pm
Cant get out mate, some of us have propa jobs and dont get half term ;D.

Scouse D

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#8 Re: Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 02:39:43 pm
I know the beta. I was speaking to a man about it called alistair.
I take all major credit cards.

Andy B

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#9 Re: Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 02:42:08 pm
If that's Ben in the vid, he's bigger and more powerful than most. I don't know of anyone else that's missed out the slopers. I did it with a right heel toe in the crimps to the right of the square jug, and hanging a couple of crap slopers in the face to reach the slopers on top, which fucked my dodgy wrist. (I fell off several times with both hands on top, due to wrist giving way). Nige also did it this way (in a fraction of the time it took me). I think Ned did it with a left heel toe in the main break though.

r-man

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#10 Re: Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 02:44:38 pm
If that's Ben in the vid, he's bigger and more powerful than most.

No, it's Kook. Same applies though.

Jaspersharpe

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#11 Re: Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 02:54:43 pm
Nice one r-man that's one of the worst videos I've ever seen. Mind I never did think much of The Blair Witch Project.

r-man

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#12 Re: Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 03:06:58 pm
Upon analysis I believe the lighting to be at fault. I have tried commanding night to switch with day, but for some reason my commands are only effective at sunrise and sunset.

dave

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#13 Re: Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 03:12:48 pm
it looks i'm wathcing it through closed eyelids. here's another video clip of the same problem:


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#14 Re: Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 03:14:44 pm
That one's slightly better.

Andy B

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#15 Re: Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 03:25:46 pm
Mother Fucker. I've just wasted five minutes of my life trying to figure out what was wrong with my computer. I hate being stoopid.

dave

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#16 Re: Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 03:34:02 pm

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#17 Re: Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 03:49:48 pm
There was a discussion on here a while back in which someone apologised to Ru for something- a variant he had climbed rather than Mark's Roof direct- could that be the soft approach- he said definitley not 7c.



that was I.  variant is on the right hand end of the block.  Easier that the direct poss 7b+

Andy B

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#18 Re: Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 03:55:32 pm
Dave, that button's not working for me.

dave

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#19 Re: Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 03:59:40 pm
try using your left hand.

ferret

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#20 Re: Mark`s Roof Direct
October 23, 2008, 11:07:05 pm
easier if u go out to the right arete 7b/+ish

my beta from big flat pinch, heel toe rf at same level as hands, rh pinch lip, lh horid sloper, rh another horid sloper then i think rh hand again long stretch to the goodish hold, match release heel toe and mantle (not that easy) worth 7c deffo

 

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