[r-man]

I guess 8A flashes in the UK are a pretty rare event. I had a quick look at the 8a.nu database, and there are hardly any there. I'm sure there must have been a few more at least. Can anyone add to this list:

Inertia Reel Traverse (8A+) - Garth Miller
Staminaband - Garth Miller
The Joker - Scott Mclellan

[Adam Lincoln]

You and your lists 

[Munkii]

is this only for outdoor boulder problems?

coz kitty wallace has done an 8a redpoint on the competition wall in london. oh yeah did i mention shes 14?

[Adam Lincoln]

is this only for outdoor boulder problems?

coz kitty wallace has done an 8a redpoint on the competition wall in london. oh yeah did i mention shes 14?

Outdoor AND  flashes... I am sure Kitty's was a route no?

[r-man]

Good grief, Munkii. 

Outdoor. Bouldering. Flashes. UK.

[Munkii]

what are flashes?

[Jaspersharpe]

It means doing the problem / route at your first attempt.

[r-man]

"Flash" is the term given to a successful first attempt. If you do a problem first go, you are said to have flashed it. You are allowed as much beta as you can gather (beta is info from other people that might help you get up the problem, like which holds to use and how to use them).

[Munkii]

like an onsight?

sorry guys

[slackline]

like an onsight?

sorry guys

Some bedtime reading[/url for you Munkii.

[dobbin]

Malcy? but wasnt that underworld which is now 7c+?

[Munkii]

like an onsight?

sorry guys

Some bedtime reading[/url for you Munkii.

well acording to your link it says a flash is "very similair to an onsight so i wasnt THAT far off.



    what does this smily mean anyways?

[andymarshll]

Read The Fucking Manual.

[Munkii]

ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

ok

[Johnny Brown]

Jvan Tresch - Zoo York

[dave]

Malcy? but wasnt that underworld which is now 7c+?

yep. malc joined the ranks of people like me who haven't flashed 8a in the UK.

[Zods Beard]

I once flashed at some school kids, and was told I'd be put on some sort of list, does that count?

[sasscotty]

I once flashed at some school kids, and was told I'd be put on some sort of list, does that count?

quality

[slackline]

well acording to your link it says a flash is "very similair to an onsight so i wasnt THAT far off.



    what does this smily mean anyways?

  Perhaps you should check out this site ---> (you can click on the emoticon and it will take you there).

Its pretty handy for finding out useful information about a range of subjects, from acronyms (e.g. RTFM, or even enter 'define: RTFM') through to news, images, videos, and is basically the best search engine on the internet.  Another useful place is Wikipedia which is an online version of Britannica Encylopeida, but slightly more accurate (according to a study by the journal Nature, if anyones bothered I can provide the reference).

Apologies for being 

[richdraws]

t.

I once flashed at some school kids, and was told I'd be put on some sort of list, does that count?

I keep almost posting up the Herbert the Pervert clip from Family Guy evertime Munkii posts but so far have had better judgement.

[r-man]

What, that's it?

Inertia Reel Traverse (8A+) - Garth Miller
Staminaband - Garth Miller
The Joker - Scott Mclellan
Zoo York - Jvan Tresch

[dave k]

Inertia reel trav has got to be the hardest to gather info on- I certainly have not seen any videos. The crux is also rediculously sequency (I think!) An impresive flash. It is also so easy to have a go on the crux sequence first and then try the whole thing.

[Kingy]

R-man, I think Andy Earl flashed The Art of Self Destruction.

In the purest sense, Garth's flash of Staminaband was not an actual flash as he had already climbed Powerband before (although i know this has been done to death in another topic a while back  ). I would not count it personally.

[Stubbs]

I would not count it personally.

I'm sure Garth will be gutted 

[Kingy]

Yeah, the dude will be crying himself to sleep for sure!

[r-man]

That was never entirely cleared up (nobody actually asked Garth). It's possible that he flashed staminaband without having climbed powerband, then took the tick for both (but had no beta on the powerband section so claimed it as a seperate onsight).

Anyway, up to five. Still a tiny number considering how many Brits have flashed 8a abroad.

Inertia Reel Traverse (8A+) - Garth Miller
Staminaband - Garth Miller
The Joker - Scott Mclellan
Zoo York - Jvan Tresch
Art of Self Destruction - Andy Earl

[Kingy]

It's possible that he flashed staminaband without having climbed powerband, then took the tick for both (but had no beta on the powerband section so claimed it as a seperate onsight).

I concede this is technically possible but perhaps unlikely  . Anyway, I will shut up now. I wonder if there are any more out there.....

[a dense loner]

no, carry on kingy you're talking sense

so we've got the list back down to 2

[Bonjoy]

I’m with Kingy. If you give Garth the tick for that then you are effectively saying you can work any section of a traverse before the flash attempt so long as you get from your pull on point to the end without falling off.

[Stubbs]

Or in this particular case what you would be saying is that you can onsight a recognised shorter version of a traverse and then flash the almost twice as long, two grades harder extension afterwards...

[a dense loner]

no he wouldn't be saying that at all. how can he flash moves he's already done? he's good but he's not that good

[Stubbs]

That's what I was saying! Read what Bonjoy wrote and then what I wrote    I bet he didn't even start from the right place anyway if there wasn't anyone there to tell him he actually needed to be three moves to the right.....

[Paul B]

seems to be common place that the starting position and fixed manner in which you climb some things is flaunted quite often at the minute.

[Kingy]

I bet he didn't even start from the right place anyway

Thats a can of worms alright. There's Welford who apparently swears blind that you haven't done it unless you sit start the flake as for the start to Staminahumps and then there are folk I've heard who pull on with their left hand already down on the crimp and right hand in the good pocket. Personally I don't reckon its safe to start on the twin pockets even. Why not start 2 easy moves further right? it adds nothing and you've covered your back then for no extra effort. As ever, best to bag a local for clarification...

[dave]

harris said start where you want as long as its right of the twin pockets. thats gospel as far as I'm concerned.

[r-man]

I’m with Kingy. If you give Garth the tick for that then you are effectively saying you can work any section of a traverse before the flash attempt so long as you get from your pull on point to the end without falling off.

No, I'm not saying that at all. I'm saying that it's possible he climbed that whole section of rock only once, from the start of staminaband to the finish of powerband, without stepping off, but took two ticks for it. And that he could have taken the onsight for powerband because he had no beta for that section, whereas he did have beta for the staminaband section, hence only a flash.

[Johnny Brown]

Who cares where he started, anyone who travels halfway round the world to drag their arse across Staminaband needs their head examining.

[Stubbs]

Don't worry JB, he did Tsunami as well.

[Fiend]

Who cares where he started, anyone who travels halfway round the world to drag their arse across Staminaband needs their head examining.

One must concede that all the discussion of valid starting points has not been the best sales pitch for the problem...






....a bit like The Joker then  ???

[Jaspersharpe]

I don't know where this grey area has come from. Unless it's altered then Staminaband starts on a big flake thing. Always has.

[Adam Lincoln]

Who cares where he started, anyone who travels halfway round the world to drag their arse across Staminaband needs their head examining.

His wife has family here, so comes over quite a lot. You must be impressed with Inertia Reel though?

[Monolith]

The beast had the misfortune of spending a number of sessions at the Liverpool wall (his wife's from Murkeyside) last year. He displayed a strong interest in a tour of G's hardest numbers but never got round to it. On the strength of seeing him campus big moves between razor blades, he didn't look the most unlikely candidate to be in with a chance of mutilation of some of the demi-god's creations.

[John Cooke]

I don't know where this grey area has come from. Unless it's altered then Staminaband starts on a big flake thing. Always has.

It comes from Moony starting from the pockets in One Summer. When i did it it was from the flake as i agree this seems the most logical place.  I have however seen folk starting off pocket with right hand and crimp on left Welford has muddied the waters further by insisting it starts from a sitter!

[Jaspersharpe]

French starting The Pinch, using the crack on Play Hard and now missing out the start on Staminaband? It's a good job Moony's got a couple of decent ascents under his belt or there'd be questions to answer. 

[dave]

but if ben didn't do the proper start does that mean he's just lost the FA to whoever did the first repeat?

[Jaspersharpe]

No he's lost it to Welford doing the sitter. 

[dave]

probably best that welford didn't actually get the FA or it'd have been masquerading as a 7b+ all these years.

[SA Chris]

Glad this came up. Things were a bit listless here for a while.

[n_man]

As not many folks seem to have flashed 8A would dropping the grade to 7C+ make much difference to the length of list?

[BenF]

Glad this came up. Things were a bit listless here for a while.

Were you feelling a bit list off about that Chris?

[SA Chris]

indeed.

r-man needs a new avatar

[Jim]

I see what you've done there. Nice