This buttress was first climbed on in the 70s, with some of the more obvious lines climbed as trad routes. With a bit of effort this year (getting rid of brambles/loose bits) it has turned into a nice bouldering venue. There is a variety of problems to do, with highballs, cracks, slabs and steep stuff. All the landings are fine, and the rock is sound - but covered in little fossils (crinoids) which are sharp on the hands. It dries very quickly as it catches the sun, doesn't really seep, and stays dry in light rain.
It is located beside the A6, close to the Demon's dale carpark (just up from Toad Hall). Park here, cross over the road, and go down the main path(out of the bus stop) which leads into Monsall Dale. Just after you cross the stream, take the left turn uphill. Climb the steps until the path turns at a right angle rightwards (v. short section of fence). 20 meters later, take the very vague path leftwards. Follow this (past fallen tree) until you reach the beginnings of an edge. Follow the base of this leftwards as it develops, cross the fence and you are there (total = 10mins)
Problems (Right to Left):
Avenue Q - 6c. Climb the wall right of Pterodactyl from a sit start. Finish at a high jug.
Pterodactyl - 4. The crack
Schadenfreude - 7a+. The right arete via undercuts, trending left at the top to a jug in the centre of the wall
Lost Sequence - 7c+. Sit start the wall to the right of the crack, finishing at the same jug as Shadenfreude. Sharp 7c from standing.
Death Crack - 5. Big crack.
Project. Wall via hideous crimps and monos
Sunshine - 6b. Climb the arete, then break right along the traverse line to the big hole with thread.
Flake - 4. SS the blocky flake
6b. The smooth wall just left from a sit start
6b. Traverse the slab L-R, finishing up the Flake
Chubby Arete - 7a. The very rounded arete from sitting. Also nice from standing
Homecoming - 5+. Boulder out the start to the trad route up the finger crack
4. Very pleasant slabby wall just left.
Diagonal crack - 6a. Obvious short crack at the far left of the edge.
Video (Schadenfreude, Flake, Avenue Q, Pterodactyl, Lost Sequence SS):