[Krank]

Does anyone have a good suggestions for venues in Spain for good beach bouldering. I'm not after the worlds best problems just somewhere i can go for a bit of a break sit chill on the beach and do a bit of bouldering between beers. I went to Nerja at xmas and climbed the beach there which was good so anymore suggestions would be sweet. cheers

[Dolly]

Whats Nerja like then ?
Got any pics please ?

[Krank]

i thought that Nerja was sweet, lots of power style probs and we found a perfect wall with a load of 2/3 finger first joint pockets on a 30-40 degree angle (i didn't have the fingers for more than 2 move but the moon board has been used since so the next visit i might make 3 moves ). i have got some pics but not with me i will try to post a few when i get home.

[LucP]

Can Boquet....near Barcelona.  The bouldering is not on the beach but just a little inland.  That said you get nice tree cover and a fine grained granite akin to gritstone.  The problems there are great and it's undergone quite a lot of development over the years.  A stay in the area is recommended by bouldering in the morning and the the late afternoon/evening and the rest of the day on the beach or doing the tourist thing in Barcelona.

The boulders are about 30km North up the coast and only a couple of Km inland at the most.  There's a great campsite to stay at which is not, granted, where the boulders are but is the best of the sites we sought out. "El Globo Rojo" in Canet De Mar.  So nice we stopped here nearly 3 weeks!  Bar, pool, small shop, restau and only a couple of mins from the beach.

Cheers
Luc

[LucP]

I know this isn't Spain but I thought that you'd appreciate it anyway.....Corsica...here's a link to some pics.

http://lezartistes.org/modele.php?cat=corse

Cheers
Luc

[Dolly]

That looks great.
Are the beaches sandy ? - hard to tell from the pics

[LucP]

It's hard to tell.  I don't think the shots of problems by the sea are above beaches.  It looks like big smooth granite platforms.  I really like the rock formations and would go there just for that!  They look incredible.

[Krank]

Corsica looks sweet, i think my search may be over. all i need now is a campsite and some cheap flights and im off. Cheers LucP that was a good find. anyone else been here?

[LucP]

Hey  ClimbinJohn

Hope that you have a great time.  I've never been so it'd be good to hear back from you on what it's like.  There is a super steep bouldering area inland called La Restonica.  Infact I've just dug up a load of info in an old copy of RockNWall.

Here goes (it's a quick rough,translation from the magazine):

A couple of recommended gites:  "I Muntagnoli Corsi"  04 92 78 64 05 and another "Poggio de Venaco" 04 95 47 07 45

Recommmended maps:   IGN Maps 1/100 000 No.74 (Ajaccio/Bonfacio) and No.73 (Bastia/Corte)

Names of a selection of bouldering areas: 
Ghisoni (map 73)...boulders are on the right as you exit the village when following the road up to the Col De Verde.  In a pine forest, 2 minutes walk.  A couple of very big boulders there have belay points and chains!!  Other boulders in the forest.  On average problems are quite difficult....don't ask what that means!?!!

Pianotolli-Caldarello (Map.74)  Just before the airport de Figari on the route to Bonifacio.  A Pianotolli take the road towards the sea towards Caldarello and drive all the way to the Cape.  Take a path on the left for about 500m to the Punta Di Capineru.  You'll arrive at the beach and a chaos of boulders...sounds, good, eh?  Lots of climbing to be had and discovered...all grades.

Valle De La Restonica (Map73)  The vallee is just about Corte.  Access is well indicated.  The boulders are just about everywhere!?!  If you can find the falaise "Troisieme Ecole" you'll come across some bouldering here.  There's a massive overhanging boulder covered in slopers.  The big secteur here can be found 50 metres higher up on the right.  Not individual boulders but the bottoms of small crags (I guess they mean bluffs or something?)  Anyway the photos are of very steep rock....and it's dead hard!

La Punta di Sette Nave (Map 74)  Small venue by the sea.  Not many holds on the boulders!!  Worth a visit for the beauty of the place, if anything.  Easy climbing.

No topos (at time the article was printed...may have changed now)

There are campsites on the island.  I remember this from a planned, but aborted, trip there.  Can't remember where but they'll show up on the IGN maps.  Of course there is the tourist info office too.

I hope that you find this helpful.  The mag photos look awesome.  If you can get hold of a copy of RockNWall no.55 (1999) it's a special on bouldering...ok probably a bit dated now but still packed with lots of helpful info.

Cheers
Luc

[Krank]

more quality info cheers mate . i checked my travel today and can get to the island for £100. but to hire a car for a week is £190 and its some crappy little Citroen bubble car but never mind mats on the roof and sleep in the car or bivy.

[LucP]

Hi Climbingjohn

I reckon you can get there for less than I can and I'm in France already! 

Have a great time.

Cheers
Luc

PS.  I just found this on ZEBLOC.....http://www.zebloc.com/sites/affiche.php?id=20  Click on the bold text where the info is...they're links.  There's topo info etc....might be useful.  For La Grimpouille you need to go into the site and look down the left hand column.  There is link to La Corse....quite a lot of info here...lots of problems.  If I unearth anything else useful I'll pass it on.

[Krank]

you are the fountain of all Corsica knowledge .  have some waddage