[Houdini]

There I was, pondering the nature of English 7b - and how very very little I know of it...


Would those in the know list problems/boulderable micro-routes (Warm Love?) with a genuine English 7b crux, please. 

[Johnny Brown]

There was a long debate about the uk 7a/ 7b boundary a year os so back. Do a search for the full story but twas vaguely agreed to be about font 8a/8a+

[Houdini]

I'll do that search, but before, would a one/two move 7b problem really be worth V12?  eg.  Nicks Sexual Problem at the Gravestones.  I thought it much less.

EDIT.  You're correct, it's all there after a search.  The Joker/Ace and something at the school.  Bummer: I'd rather give-up climbing than train at the School.  But thanks.

[r-man]

EDIT.  You're correct, it's all there after a search.  The Joker/Ace and something at the school.  Bummer: I'd rather give-up climbing than train at the School.  But thanks.

I think you're reffering to something Andy Harris said:

7b moves in the UK: hubble crux, sampson, Gaskins problems, Quintessence, No of things at School, foundry pinch problem

easy 7a: crux of evolution/jehovakill/ bens drop down move/JA/
solid 7a: revelations crux, sweetest thing, pinch 2, pink indians eliminate, joker, Quintessence
hard 7a: superman, , 2nd crux hubble
easy 7b: hubble crux, sampson?
solid 7b: snot/pinky perky at school, crux brandenburg gate
Don't think the jump from 6c to 7a is bigger than from 6a-6b but when you can just climb a hard 6a, 6b is miles off and a hard 6b move would be the living end. It's just as things get harder more people are ruled out and progress within the grade gets slower.

But the thread boiled down to a difference of opinion - the School boys who maintained (as above) that 7b was the living end, versus the non-school people who reckoned 7a started around 7b+ and 7b started around 8a/+. If you opt for the latter theory, there are bound to be a few more 7b moves around...

Hmmm, Quintessence is given first as 7b, then as solid 7a... Example of obsessive compulsive downgrading? 

For those that missed it: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3409.0.html

[Pantontino]

Nick's Sexual Problem might be Font 7b, but it is a million miles from british tech 7b, more like sturdy 6c.

[Houdini]

Watching Hocking very nearly static this über-move last year also convinced me of this.  However this move is harder than 6c, Si.

[ferret]

the mythical english tech grade, above 6c does anyone really know wot it means? if you look at some grit routes once given 7a, westside story, desparete, partheon shot, the crux is no harder than font 7c, and others like who needs ready brek weigh in at 7c+.
in comparison this should really make any reasonable short 8a british 7b, the real question is wot british tech grade is a short font 8b+?!
as for samson, 7b yor avin a laugh.

[Houdini]

There is, of course, The Spoon Machine on the Pac Man boulder.  This line repulses me, aesthetically speaking.  I guess what I was after were boulder problems with Eng. 7b to try, and satisfy my curiosity.


One of the funniest things Dawes ever said to me was - Are you familiar with what English 7a means?

[Johnny Brown]

Its in the other thread, but the start to Careless torque is the one I've heard most often quoted as being 'technical' 7b (Dave Pegg; Dangerous Crocodile Snogging); the rest are just glorified weightlifting

[unclesomebody]

Its in the other thread, but the start to Careless torque is the one I've heard most often quoted as being 'technical' 7b (Dave Pegg; Dangerous Crocodile Snogging); the rest are just glorified weightlifting

So this means that someone has flashed english 7b if what you're saying is to be believed.  my beard itches...

[Bonjoy]

 Who's flashed Careless Torque?

[Doylo]

Who's flashed Careless Torque?

i'm gonna own up, it was me.

[Houdini]

Liar.  It was me!

[BenF]

I'm keeping quiet about it.  You know, staying elusive and all that.

[Bonjoy]

Obviously there was Rich's ground up, but I've not heard of a flash

[r-man]

I think Unclesomebody is pointing out that if all 7bs other than CT are so technically straightforward ("glorified weightlifting"), someone must have flashed them...

[Pantontino]

Don't give the wood monkey the benefit of the doubt. Don't you realise that there are social divisions at stake here? He's a fully paid up member of the 'School', whilst you are not, and never will be. He can do one armers off a half joint edge with a fully grown labrador strapped to his back, whereas you can't. He can't do the simplest of mantels, but you're probably quite good at them. etc... It's like the Indian caste system: the line must never be crossed!

To slightly paraphrase the great Micky Johnston: "7b? Never seen 7b!"

Just realised that Nick's sexual Problem uses a genuine split finger 'spock' arrangement and a 'hockstack' press - maybe it is 7b after all.

[Houdini]

Yes yes!  That's what I saw:  a Hockstack press/Spock combo.  I couldn't believe how close he came - but he's no slouch is Adam.

And if anyone gets jiggy with their wirebrush on this goddam problem anymore I am going to get quite annoyed.  Fuck off will you!  All those tiny hyphens and dinks that have been pointlessly scarred on this problem...the holds are there gaylords - learn to use them better.

[unclesomebody]

As Panton says, don't give me the benefit of any doubt. I was under the impression that there is a man out there who has flashed the start of careless torque. I did not imply that anybody has actually flashed the whole problem.  There may be more but on that I couldn't comment. My point was that careless torque is definitely not english 7b.

Another good point Panton, everybody has to choose, which side of the line are you on? Come join the winners...
As for social divisions and that underhand attack of my mantle skills, FUCK YOU.

note; if that last bit gets taken seriously I will be leaving UKB for a place that understands sarcasm.

[Stubbs]

An anonymous man? The made which you quote at the bottom of your posts (not Rodney)? Who?

[unclesomebody]

sorry, just realised there was some ambiguity in my post. This is what I meant; I thought there was a foreigner who had flashed the start of careless torque. I also thought that Ivan Tresch got past the start second go. My comment about there may be more simply meant the following; there may be more people who have flashed the start too, but I don't know. I didn't mean to imply anything else along the lines of I know someone who has flashed it but I'm not telling because if that were the case I wouldn't even post on here. 

[Pantontino]

Awesome! I've got the official invitation to join, the ticket to turbo charged arms of justice! I can provide a list of notables who I've burned off (even if it was only once and they were probably ill and won't remember anyway), and references from all the top stars if needed. I can even spill the dirt on various gritstone slab fags. Whatever it takes to get through the final selection process, I'll do it (with the obvious disclaimer regarding the imbibement of unsavioury body fluids).

Can't wait to get back to seiging Woodology - I'm assuming you new boys haven't taken it down.

[Houdini]

Ah ya mingers!  You don't mean to say that selection for school-room entry actually involves the Digestive game?


Well...on the other hand I believe it is rich in magnesium and fructose...


These arcane rituals!  You're worse than masons! 

[Doylo]

Can't wait to get back to seiging Woodology - I'm assuming you new boys haven't taken it down.

Hell no!

[unclesomebody]

woah there tiger. I have neither the will nor the authority to be offering school invites. Please don't let my words misrepresent me. I didn't mean to get your hopes up only to break your heart, but I'm sure there are plenty of 7B's outdoors that you can continue sieging.