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Traverses - Uk firsts (Read 11517 times)

r-man

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Traverses - Uk firsts
April 29, 2005, 04:01:34 pm
First traverse problems at each grade (no eliminates)

-following on from bouldering firsts:
Bouldering firsts

V1
V2
V3
V4 - Virgin Traverse - ? - ? - ?
V5 - Traverse - Shipley Glen - ? - 1950s?
V6 - Bluebell Wall Traverse - The Breck - Al Rouse - 1968
V7
V8
V8+ - Mid-level Traverse - The Breck - Mike Collins - 1979
V9
V10 - Keel Boulder traverse - Almscliff - ? - ?
V11
V12 - Inertia Reel Traverse - Jerry Moffatt - Roaches - 1980s?
V13
V14 - Anesthesia - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2000
V15 - History awaits...

So what about stuff like Powerband - when was that first done?

Stubbs

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#1 Traverses - Uk firsts
April 29, 2005, 04:03:48 pm
Three swings traverse at almscliff - V2? That must be very old, probably pre WWII at least

webbo

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#2 Traverses - Uk firsts
April 29, 2005, 04:13:51 pm
whats the v5 traverse at shipley glen

r-man

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#3 Traverses - Uk firsts
April 29, 2005, 04:15:54 pm
Quote
what's the v5 traverse


copy and pasting mistake. should be v3.

Quote from: "Stubbs"
Three swings traverse at almscliff - V2? That must be very old, probably pre WWII at least


Good start. And I'll fill in some of the blanks with the first things I can think of to get the ball rolling:

V1
V2 - Three Swings Traverse - Almscliff - ? - 1940s?
V3 - Traverse - Shipley Glen - ? - 1950s?
V4 - Virgin Traverse - ? - ? - ?
V5 -
V6 - Bluebell Wall Traverse - The Breck - Al Rouse - 1968
V7
V8
V8+ - Mid-level Traverse - The Breck - Mike Collins - 1979
V9 - Powerband - Raven Tor - Jerry Moffatt - ?
V10 - Keel Boulder traverse - Almscliff - ? - ?
V11 - Traverse of the Gods - Craig Y Longrdige - Dave Kenyon - late 1980s?
V12 - Inertia Reel Traverse - Jerry Moffatt - Roaches - 1980s?
V13
V14 - Anesthesia - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2000
V15 - History awaits...

webbo

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#4 Traverses - Uk firsts
April 29, 2005, 04:25:53 pm
the virgin traverse would be 70s.the traverse below crucifix/pebble wall v6 in the guide was probably done around the same time n.b. the lip level one.
also there is a traverse above the lip on demon wall roof i.e.feet above lip hands below break at about v5 done very early 70s.
pebble mill traverse v7 1978 cool pete[ mate of nicky stokes]

r-man

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#5 Traverses - Uk firsts
April 29, 2005, 04:36:00 pm
Quote from: "webbo"
the virgin traverse would be 70s.the traverse below crucifix/pebble wall v6 in the guide was probably done around the same time n.b. the lip level one.
also there is a traverse above the lip on demon wall roof i.e.feet above lip hands below break at about v5 done very early 70s.
pebble mill traverse v7 1978 cool pete[ mate of nicky stokes]


All good, though the v6 doesn't quite compete with the bluebell traverse if it was done in the 70s...

V1
V2 - Three Swings Traverse - Almscliff - ? - 1940s?
V3 - Traverse - Shipley Glen - ? - 1950s?
V4 - Virgin Traverse - ? - ? - 1970s?
V5 - Demon Wall Roof Traverse - Almscliff - ? - 1970s?
V6 - Bluebell Wall Traverse - The Breck - Al Rouse - 1968
V7 - Pebble Mill Traverse - Burbage South - Cool Pete? - 1978
V8 -
V8+ - Mid-level Traverse - The Breck - Mike Collins - 1979
V9 - Powerband - Raven Tor - Jerry Moffatt - ?
V10 - Keel Boulder traverse - Almscliff - ? - ?
V11 - Traverse of the Gods - Craig Y Longrdige - Dave Kenyon - late 1980s?
V12 - Inertia Reel Traverse - Jerry Moffatt - Roaches - 1980s?
V13
V14 - Anesthesia - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2000
V15 - History awaits...

You'd think there would be something at V4/5 done in the 60s though...

Graeme

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#6 Traverses - Uk firsts
April 29, 2005, 04:37:03 pm
Yeah and leviathan was done before anesthesia, as was lohtlorien, but I don't know if you can really count that, also what grade anesthesia now, I thought Vickers downgraded it?

webbo

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#7 Traverses - Uk firsts
April 29, 2005, 04:38:33 pm
longridge traverse was done by tony mitchell.
there was alot of traverses done at hetchell 70s/80s no idea what grade they would be.they are in the yorks grit cock fax.

you may have major difficulties sorting the sideways stuff out.despite it being all the rage in the 70/80s nothing ever really got recorded.

r-man

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#8 Traverses - Uk firsts
April 29, 2005, 04:41:35 pm
Quote from: "Graeme"
Yeah and leviathan was done before anesthesia, as was lohtlorien, but I don't know if you can really count that, also what grade anesthesia now, I thought Vickers downgraded it?


Yeah, I think someone said Leviathan was an eliminate. Or is one of them an eliminate and the other not?

You're right about Anasthesia, that was another copy and paste mistake...

V1
V2 - Three Swings Traverse - Almscliff - ? - 1940s?
V3 - Traverse - Shipley Glen - ? - 1950s?
V4 - Virgin Traverse - ? - ? - 1970s?
V5 - Demon Wall Roof Traverse - Almscliff - ? - 1970s?
V6 - Bluebell Wall Traverse - The Breck - Al Rouse - 1968
V7 - Pebble Mill Traverse - Burbage South - Cool Pete? - 1978
V8 -
V8+ - Mid-level Traverse - The Breck - Mike Collins - 1979
V9 - Powerband - Raven Tor - Jerry Moffatt - ?
V10 - Keel Boulder traverse - Almscliff - ? - ?
V11 - Traverse of the Gods - Craig Y Longrdige - Dave Kenyon - late 1980s?
V12 - Inertia Reel Traverse - Jerry Moffatt - Roaches - 1980s?
V13 - Anesthesia - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2000
V14
V15 - History awaits...

r-man

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#9 Traverses - Uk firsts
April 29, 2005, 04:50:51 pm
Quote from: "webbo"
longridge traverse was done by tony mitchell.
there was alot of traverses done at hetchell 70s/80s no idea what grade they would be.they are in the yorks grit cock fax.


Really? In the lancs guide it says:

Quote
The big prize at Longridge was the continuous ascent of the traverse. First done by Dave Kenyon in the 1980s


Though it doesn't give a name, so I used the one in a previous post. Am I getting traverses mixed up?

...haven't got the Yorks guide tho. I'm sure someone does...

Quote
you may have major difficulties sorting the sideways stuff out.despite it being all the rage in the 70/80s nothing ever really got recorded.


Yeah. I thought that might be the case, but people are still alive, so the knowledge is still around, even if it might be a bit vague.

...Wonder if anyone knows when the amazing Chimney Buttress traverse at Wilton 1 was done?

moose

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#10 Traverses - Uk firsts
April 29, 2005, 04:55:01 pm
i think both lothlorien and leviathon are eliminates - no jamming in the cracks and no using a shelf for feet.  Don't see why that should exclude them though - they're bloody hard and that's surely what counts (I mean traverses are inherently pointless anyway... you may's well walk!).

webbo

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#11 Traverses - Uk firsts
April 29, 2005, 04:56:48 pm
the full traverse of long ridge was written up in the mags as being done by t.m and graded f8c.

r-man

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#12 Traverses - Uk firsts
April 29, 2005, 05:19:57 pm
Quote from: "moose"
i think both lothlorien and leviathon are eliminates - no jamming in the cracks and no using a shelf for feet.  Don't see why that should exclude them though - they're bloody hard and that's surely what counts (I mean traverses are inherently pointless anyway... you may's well walk!).


But then you could say, hey my sequence was a lot harder, so instead of a V5 I climbed a V7... Plus it takes a bit of vision to find a completely new line that looks imposible and to climb it before any else does, but an eliminate is essentially just making an natural line artificially harder by removing holds. It's not much different than climbing on plastic in that sense. And I doubt most people would imagine first ascents on plastic to be that important. I know what you mean, I just think eliminates are a very different entity. If you're talking about eliminates then you're getting towards trying to isolate the hardest ever moves, or the most sustained ever moves - testing pure strength or stamina, rather than overall difficulty of a problem, which (though not usually complicated by the fear factor as in trad) is still something a lot more complex than just the strongest muscle.

...And you may as well walk to the top of a boulder for that matter. It's the same argument trad climbers always use to point out how pointless bouldering is.  :roll:

dave

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#13 Traverses - Uk firsts
April 29, 2005, 07:03:21 pm
powerband 87
staminaband 88

r-man

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#14 Traverses - Uk firsts
April 29, 2005, 07:13:59 pm
Quote
the full traverse of long ridge was written up in the mags as being done by t.m and graded f8c.


Odd, I wonder what's going on? I'll put both names in until someone can shed some light on the matter.

Quote
powerband 87
staminaband 88


ok...

Oh, and what about Pilgrimmage at V14? It's not that sidewards, but it's a monster stamina problem...

V1
V2 - Three Swings Traverse - Almscliff - ? - 1940s?
V3 - Traverse - Shipley Glen - ? - 1950s?
V4 - Virgin Traverse - ? - ? - 1970s?
V5 - Demon Wall Roof Traverse - Almscliff - ? - 1970s?
V6 - Bluebell Wall Traverse - The Breck - Al Rouse - 1968
V7 - Pebble Mill Traverse - Burbage South - Cool Pete? - 1978
V8 -
V8+ - Mid-level Traverse - The Breck - Mike Collins - 1979
V9 - Powerband - Raven Tor - Jerry Moffatt - 1987
V10 - (Keel) Natural Traverse - Almscliff - ? - ?
V11 - Staminaband - Raven Tor - Ben Moon - 1988
V11 - Traverse of the Gods - Craig Y Longrdige - Tony Mitchell/Dave Kenyon - late 1980s?
V12 - Inertia Reel Traverse - Jerry Moffatt - Roaches - 1980s?
V13 - Anesthesia - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2000
V14 - Pilgrimmage - Parisellas Cave - Malcolm Smith - 2004
V15 - History awaits...

Terrace Ghost

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#15 Traverses - Uk firsts
April 30, 2005, 10:06:18 am
is this what this forum has come to, threads on traverses.

we must be desperate :rip:

a dense loner

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#16 Traverses - Uk firsts
April 30, 2005, 11:22:39 am
not if we don't reply to it :wink:

webbo

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#17 Traverses - Uk firsts
May 03, 2005, 10:31:40 am
but i will.

cool pete=pete lowe i think, memorys working again.

fatneck

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#18 Traverses - Uk firsts
May 03, 2005, 10:59:44 am
Virgin Wall Traverse is at Churnet (somewhere)

Andy Harris

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#19 traversing.
May 03, 2005, 01:11:30 pm
Pockets traverse @ Back Bowden Doors N'umberland Pete Curtain 7c+ mid 80's.

Moffatrocity 1983? 7c

Cubby must have done some hard traversing in Scotland way back when.

When did Ron do the full pebble traverse at Stanage.

It's an eliminate but the big 8c+/9a traverse Ben did at cragx up and down and along Moffatrocity and agaian and again.

Greg C

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#20 Traverses - Uk firsts
May 03, 2005, 01:22:47 pm
RE: Anesthesia
As far as I can remember Ian Vickers did not actually down grade this problem, he merely commented that it felt like an 8c/+ route.
From what I can ascertain he climbed it from where John climbs it in "Stick It", i.e. 3 to 5 hand movements right of where John actually climbed it from originally. For some reason they edited these moves out of the released version of "Stick It". This is a reasonable thing to do on Vickers part, as this was the only beta he had to go on. This version is thought to be around V12, thus Mr. Vickers assessment that it felt like an 8c route was roughly correct.

As for the original problem - This has not been repeated and it would be unfair to downgrade it from its original grade of V13/14, therefore it must still be considered as one the (if not “the”) hardest traverse in the UK.

andy_e

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#21 Traverses - Uk firsts
May 03, 2005, 02:47:40 pm
Quote from: "Graeme"
Yeah and leviathan was done before anesthesia, as was lohtlorien, but I don't know if you can really count that, also what grade anesthesia now, I thought Vickers downgraded it?

Anaesthesia is V14, but the way Ian did it started 1.5m from the Gaskins start, at V13. it's V14 and unrepeated the entire way.

r-man

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#22 Traverses - Uk firsts
May 03, 2005, 02:48:39 pm
Quote
cool pete=pete lowe i think, memorys working again
.

Good stuff.

Quote
Virgin Wall Traverse is at Churnet (somewhere)


Yep, just checked, turns out it's at Ousal. Gets 6b+ in the new guide.

Quote
Pockets traverse @ Back Bowden Doors N'umberland Pete Curtain 7c+ mid 80's.


Good, we needed a V10.

Quote
Moffatrocity 1983? 7c


Found this on ukc -written in 2001:

Quote
Is this the same Moffatrocity that JM did c13 years ago


Which would make it 1988ish. I'll stick it in alongside powerband until someone knows for sure...

Quote
Cubby must have done some hard traversing in Scotland way back when.


When was beetle back done? Are there lots of others?

Quote
When did Ron do the full pebble traverse at Stanage.


70s/80s? Gets hard 7b in the new guide, so I'll stick it in at V8.

Quote
It's an eliminate but...


No eliminates or this will just become way too complicated...

Quote
RE: Anesthesia
As for the original problem - This has not been repeated and it would be unfair to downgrade it from its original grade of V13/14.


Well it's in at V13 at the moment, so I take it you reckon it should be in at V14? Ok then...

V1
V2 - Three Swings Traverse - Almscliff - ? - 1940s?
V3 - Traverse - Shipley Glen - ? - 1950s?
V4 - Virgin Traverse - Ousal Crag - ? - 1970s?
V5 - Demon Wall Roof Traverse - Almscliff - ? - 1970s?
V6 - Bluebell Wall Traverse - The Breck - Al Rouse - 1968
V7 - Pebble Mill Traverse - Burbage South - Pete Lowe - 1978
V8 - Pebble Traverse - Stanage - Ron Fawcett - 70s/80s?
V8+ - Mid-level Traverse - The Breck - Mike Collins - 1979
V9 - Moffatrocity - Crag X - Jerry Moffatt - 1980s?
V9 - Powerband - Raven Tor - Jerry Moffatt - 1987
V10 - Pockets traverse - Back Bowden Doors - Pete Curtain - mid 80's
V11 - Staminaband - Raven Tor - Ben Moon - 1988
V11 - Traverse of the Gods - Craig Y Longrdige - Tony Mitchell/Dave Kenyon - late 1980s?
V12 - Inertia Reel Traverse - Jerry Moffatt - Roaches - 1980s?
V13 -
V14 - Anesthesia - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2000
V15 - History awaits...

andy_e

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#23 Traverses - Uk firsts
May 03, 2005, 02:49:36 pm
Sorry Greg, didn't see that, just been reading the Woodwell guide!

fatneck

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#24 Traverses - Uk firsts
May 03, 2005, 10:32:08 pm
"Yep, just checked, turns out it's at Ousal."

Not quite, it's somewhere between Gentlemans and Ousal and requires a certain amount of bushwacking, uphill...

 

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