[r-man]

Ok, so I was looking at planetfear's bouldering records and I wondered what the uk list of first problems at each grade would be. Just going off that list, plus the obvious V15:

V9 - Walk on by - Curbar - Rob Gawthorpe
V11 - Slingshot - Frogatt - Jerry Moffatt
V15 - Walk Away ss - Fairysteps - John Gaskins

What are the rest?

[a dense loner]

walk on by is V10. it is certainly not V9

[cofe]

also, moffatt top-roped slingshot.

[dave]

didn't jezzer do superman bout the same time as slingshizzle?

[andy_e]

slingshot route, E10 7b!

[r-man]

walk on by is V10. it is certainly not V9

didn't jezzer do superman bout the same time as slingshizzle?

Ok then:

V8 ?
V9 ?
V10 - Walk on by - Curbar - Rob Gawthorpe 1960s?
V11 - Slingshot - Frogatt - Jerry Moffatt - 1988
V12 - Superman - Crag X - Jerry Moffatt - 1988
V13 - Isla de Enchanta - John Gaskins - 1999
V14 - Kaizen - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2001
V15 - Walk Away ss - Fairysteps - John Gaskins - 2002

Just going off the lakesbloc history section, which says that Isla... and Kaizen were the hardest problems in the country at that time, though 10 years between V11 and V12 seems a very long time...

Still, I guess there's an even longer gap between V10 and V11.

..And yeah I know Jerry top-roped Slingshot, but like it says on planetfear, bouldering mats weren't invented, and I'm sure he would have used em if they were.

[andy_e]

il pirata, V15 trowbarrow, Johnny G
Keel Boulder traverse, V10 6c+ Keel boulder almscliffe

[Scouse D]

Think Gawthorpe was '83 word-certainly not the 60s

[(woz)]

A bit off topic, but in the first ascents list of an old peak (routes) guide it says that rob gawthawp climbed walk on by to the break by 'combined tactics' e.g. cheating, before topping out. Can he still be given the first ascent if thats right? If it is true, when was the second ascent? Not sure how true this is tho.
dan

[r-man]

il pirata, V15 trowbarrow, Johnny G
Keel Boulder traverse, V10 6c+ Keel boulder almscliffe

RTQ! Come on, how are you ever going to pass your A-levels if you don't Read The Question?  :wink:

Think Gawthorpe was '83 word-certainly not the 60s

Cool in the gang:

V8 ?
V9 ?
V10 - Walk on by - Curbar - Rob Gawthorpe - 1983
V11 - Slingshot - Frogatt - Jerry Moffatt - 1988
V12 - Superman - Crag X - Jerry Moffatt - 1988
V13 - Isla de Enchanta - Trowbarrow - John Gaskins - 1999
V14 - Kaizen - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2001
V15 - Walk Away ss - Fairysteps - John Gaskins - 2002

[Ru]

Think the Superman Sitter was done before Isla De Encanta, and if we stretch the rules a bit, Hubble is 8b and was climbed in 1990.

[moose]

how about Careless Torque in '87 - doesn't that get V12 in new money?

[Mr.Burns]

Was Slingshot climbed before Careless Torque?

[Mr.Burns]

I though Smith said it felt like V11... I could be wrong though.

[Mr.Burns]

If we stretch it to include Hubble in 1982 Rob Gawthorpe did the direct start to central wall at Dib Scar, I think this is about V9.

[squeek]

Desert Island Arete low start V7 was climbed in the 60s I think, maybe early 70s.  Super Bald Pate arete, or whatever it is at Ilkley was climbed very early wasn't it?  What about Syrett's Sauter/Pebble wall at Caley, wasn't that climbed early as it V8.  I'll have to start bringing my guides into work...

[r-man]

V5 ?
V6 ?
V7 ?
V8 ?
V9 - Cental Wall Direct - Dib Scar - Rob Gawthorpe - 1982
V10 - Walk on by - Curbar - Rob Gawthorpe - 1983
V11 - Slingshot - Frogatt - Jerry Moffatt - 1988
V12 - Superman - Crag X - Jerry Moffatt - 1988
V13 - Hubble - Raven tor - Ben Moon - 1992
V13 - Superman ss - Ben Moon - ?
V14 - Kaizen - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2001
V15 - Walk Away ss - Fairysteps - John Gaskins - 2002

What about Leviathan? Done in 1994. Is that 8b or 8b+?

[Graeme]

Leviathan 8b+, done around '93 '94 I think.

[webbo]

steve foster used combined tactics on walk on by not rob gawthorpe.pebble wall,bald pate super direct and d.i.a are all mid to late 70s.al manson,andy brown, jerry peel did them i think.theres also jerrys arete[bridies] and red baron from the 70s.

[r-man]

I asked cos Malcolm Smith said it was 8b, but everyone else seems to say 8b+

There's two, there's Leviathan and Lothlorian which has a slightly different finish, but they're both font 8b's or f9a.

But 8b+ seems to be the consensus (though how many have repeated it?)

so...

V1 ?
V2 ?
V3 ?
V4 ?
V5 ?
V6 ?
V7 - Desert Island Arete - ? - ? - 60s/70s?
V8 - Super Bald Arete - Ilkley - ? - ?
V8 - Syrett's Sauter/Pebble wall - Caley - ? - ?
V9 - Cental Wall Direct - Dib Scar - Rob Gawthorpe - 1982
V10 - Walk on by - Curbar - Rob Gawthorpe - 1983
V11 - Slingshot - Frogatt - Jerry Moffatt - 1988
V12 - Superman - Crag X - Jerry Moffatt - 1988
V13 - Hubble - Raven Tor - Ben Moon - 1992
V13 - Superman ss - Ben Moon - ?
V14 - Leviathan - Kyloe in the Woods - Malcolm Smith - 1994
V15 - Walk Away ss - Fairysteps - John Gaskins - 2002

[cofe]

i can't believe slingshot is still on the list. HE TOPROPED IT. ron didn't toprope FA of careless torque.

what is hubble doing on a bouldering list?

you people, jesus. :roll:

[moose]

a bit off-topic - have many of Gaskins' hard problems been repeated (il pirata, walk away ss, anaethesia, etc)? Is there any consensus on their precise degree of hideousness?  

In spite of never so much as seeing the problems, I have a knawing feeling that they are even harder than supposed and that Gaskins is possessed of terrible (possibly alien) powers that could destroy us all Akira-style (maybe when he runs out of stuff in the South Lakes he'll crimp his way to nuclear fusion?).

So if any wealthy, bouldering-obsessed, maniacs are reading... could they please kidnapp some international waddage (Graham, Loskot, Nicole etc) in a "The Beast  Must Die" stylee, force them to partake in a grading session, and put my mind at rest.

[r-man]

i can't believe slingshot is still on the list. HE TOPROPED IT. ron didn't toprope FA of careless torque.

what is hubble doing on a bouldering list?

Alright, alright, keep your pants on.  

I left them on the list cos I thought that the hardest pieces of climbing are relevant to the bouldering scene, given that that is what bouldering is essentially about. When did Ron do careless torque?

PURE BOULDERING:

V1 ?
V2 ?
V3 ?
V4 ?
V5 ?
V6 ?
V7 - Desert Island Arete - ? - ? - 60s/70s?
V8 - Super Bald Arete - Ilkley - ? - ?
V8 - Syrett's Sauter/Pebble wall - Caley - ? - ?
V9 - Cental Wall Direct - Dib Scar - Rob Gawthorpe - 1982
V10 - Walk on by - Curbar - Rob Gawthorpe - 1983
V11 - Careless Torque - Stanage - Ron Fawcett - ?
V12 - Superman - Crag X - Jerry Moffatt - 1988
V13 - Superman ss - Ben Moon - ?
V14 - Leviathan - Kyloe in the Woods - Malcolm Smith - 1994
V15 - Walk Away ss - Fairysteps - John Gaskins - 2002

Of note:
V11 - Slingshot - Frogatt - Jerry Moffatt - 1988
V13 - Hubble - Raven Tor - Ben Moon - 1992

[cofe]

get your 89 stanage guide out yoof.

"of note". my arse.

<blows raspberry and makes gesture with thumb on nose while wiggling fingers>

[squeek]

V9 - Jerry's Arete Bridestones as noted by webbo above.

Re: Gaskins - I think a lot of stuff is unrepeated, there are people knocking about this forum who know a lot more than me, but I was told by a local wad that the SS shelf to the right of Isla de enchanta hasn't been repeated (V8?)

Axions (maybe Aeons?) the blunt arete to the right of Walk-away hasn't been repeated, and some strong people have tried it, although I don't know how extensively.  I'm sure there's much better examples of some harsh grades he's given that the local gurus know of.