[Fiend]

Not for me, you understand, otherwise it would be "protectable E4-ish downwards" and besides I know all those already. Partly speculation, partly possibly useful for a few good Scottish climbers I've met who've never climbed on grit and really need to suffer flared finger seams, holdless nightmare slabs and unnervingly rounded aretes WITHOUT actually breaking anything.

What is suitable:
Anything classic.
Anything that is in reliable condition.
Anything with fiddly/strenuous gear as long as it's decent.
Anything with a slightly highball start as long as it's sensible with a couple of pads.
Anything that is bold / runout above gear as long as it's not groundfall territory.
Anything with typical gritstone rounded horror climbing.

(Stuff like the Salmon routes, Ikley right side of Cow, Roaches swan area, Curbar thin cracks etc seem perfect to me)

What is NOT suitable:
Anything that is going to be green, grubby, esoteric and not in condition (hence nothing from Guisecliffe Eavestone Churnet Amber Valley etc)
Anything that is an unprotected highball even if it's typically regarded as safe with a dozen pads.
Anything that's more positive / straightforward atypical grit climbing (hence nothing on quarried grit)

I've got a very tentative list (including many "hard?" E5s) based on blindly following guidebook information / misinterpreting the grapevine / inept armchair speculation and it goes something like this:

Yorkshire:

Giggling Crack E6 6c ***
The Bottom Line E7 6c *
Megadoom E5 6b **
The Great Flake E6 6b ***
Adrenaline Rush E5 6b ***
Desert Island Arete E6 6c ***
Milky Way E6 6b ***
Fast Forward E6 6c ***

Staffordshire:

Northern Comfort E6 6c **
Thing On A Spring E6 7a ***
Against The Grain E6 7a ***
Painted Rumour E6 6a ***
Counterstroke To Equity E5 6c *
Nature Trail E5 6b **
Master Of Reality E6 6c ***
National Acrobat E6 6c ***
Ray's Roof E6 6c ***

Cratcliffe etc:

Reticent Mass Murderer E5 6b **
Genocide E6 6c **
Discombobulator E5 6c **
Untoward E5 6b **
Camel Hot E6 6b **
Kaluza Klein E7 6c ***

Eastern Grit:

Trout E6 6b ***
Salmon Direct E6 6c ***
Salmon E7 6c ***
Smoked Salmon E7 7a ***

Sad Amongst Friends E6 7a ***
Warmlove E6 7a *
The Crypt Trip E6 6b ***
Flight Of Ideas E6 7a ***
Scapa Flow E6 6c **
Carpe Diem E6 6c **
The 9 O'Clock Watershed E6 6c **
Master Of Disguise E6 6c **
Little Women E7 7a **
Groove Is In The Heart E7 7a **

Balance It is E7 6c ***
Life Assurance E6 6b *
Offspring E5 6b ***
Pulsar Direct E6 6b **
Linkline E6 6c ***
Moolah E5 6b **
New Mediterranean E5 6c **

The Screaming Dream E7 7a **
Beau Geste E7 6c ***
Janus E6 6b ***
Crack And Slab E6 6c *
Epiphany E6 6b **
Mensa E6 6b **
Linden E6 6b ***
Slab And Crack E7 6b ***
Rigid Digit E5 6b **
Moonshine E5 6b ***

Mickey Finn E6 6b ***
Perfect Day E5 6b ***

 

[lagerstarfish]

Milky Way climbs like quarried/unnatural grit (peg scars innit) to the roof (which is only 5c jamming anyway)

just saying

[benpritch]

a bit unsure if Linden fits the criteria?

[shark]

I suspect Make it Snappy at Gardoms would be suitable

[Will Hunt]

I think I'd take Adrenaline Rush and The Great Flake off the list.

Adrenaline Rush is difficult at the top and if you didn't deck out you'd at least come very very close.

The Great Flake is more often done above a very large pad stack nowadays. In the only photo I've seen of someone doing it on gear, there is also some skyhook shenanigans going on. This belies a lack of confidence in the cam (I think the placement may be flared?). The top is very falloffable.

P.S. I've not done either of these so someone will be along shortly to correct me.

[lagerstarfish]

Life Assurance has solid gear, but the last move is the crux - a fall would be a bit scary

a pad on the starting boulder might prevent most things from breaking

it's not a very hard E6 though...

[Sloper]

What's the E6 to the left of L'Horla?  Then there are the things to the right of Strapadictomy, The Elder Statesman And I wouldn't class Slab & Crack as being safe.

[andy popp]

Yes, neither Linden nor Adrenalin Rush really fit the bill. Linden, especially, is potentially quite dangerous. You'd take a pearler if you came off the top move of The Salmon. I think Slab and Crack is E8.

Make it Snappy fits though, as does Lost World at Carl's Wark. Moon Crack and Moonshine at Curbar (warming up on Usurper, hahaha) would make a good Curbar day. Cool Moon with the side runner is a very onsightable E6. Barriers in Time fits. I'll probably think of some more later.

Reticent is a great little challenge. Moolah and New Mediterranean are both great fun but don't feel like huge ticks.

[tc]

Moon Crack and Moonshine at Curbar (warming up on Usurper, hahaha) would make a good Curbar day.

I found Usurper a good Curbar day on its own. Bancroft had this down as "5b+" in his old "Recent Developments" guide. Yeah, right.

[cheque]

Discombobulator E5 6c **
Untoward E5 6b **
Camel Hot E6 6b **

Not sure how clean these are (I think Discombobulator is OK)- I'll have a look for you when I'm there next (this week hopefully).

[Bonjoy]

I cleaned and did Untoward a few year ago but it might need redoing. Think the other two should be ok.

[mark20]

Spanish Fly at Gardoms, I cleaned it the other day

[andy popp]

Moon Crack and Moonshine at Curbar (warming up on Usurper, hahaha) would make a good Curbar day.

I found Usurper a good Curbar day on its own. Bancroft had this down as "5b+" in his old "Recent Developments" guide. Yeah, right.

Hence the "Hahaha".

[tc]

Yes, I thought I'd detected an element of irony!

[Fiend]

Milky Way - that's okay, will need something to cater to the stamina monsters.
Linden - will take that off, didn't really know how the gear situation worked. It has been onsighted tho, yes?
Make It Snappy - good stuff will put that on.
Life Assurance - I think that would be okay, I'm assuming swift running belayers, pads over boulders etc.
Adrenaline Rush - doesn't the same apply to that?
Great Flake - skyhooks are okay. Didn't it get led a lot in the past?
Barriers In Time - ah, perfect, can't believe I forgot that.
Slab And Crack - E8s are okay. Is it properly dangerous?
Moon Crack - is in as part of Crack And Slab.
Lost World - is a bit off-piste.
Spanish Fly - yup that could be good, I assume the pre-placed wire is de-rigeur?

[Bonjoy]

The Eighth Fold E6 6c ** and Fist of Fun E6 6c**, both totally fit the bill.
Best mention a couple that aren't mine just for balance, hmmm, Flabby Crack E6 6c** at Hen Cloud and A Step in the Green Light E6 6b ** at Heptonstall.

[lagerstarfish]

Messiah?

I know the first bit of gear is a bit high up, but it's before the crux

[Sloper]

Moon Crack and Moonshine at Curbar (warming up on Usurper, hahaha) would make a good Curbar day.

I found Usurper a good Curbar day on its own. Bancroft had this down as "5b+" in his old "Recent Developments" guide. Yeah, right.

It's certainly harder than 5b (i.e almost 6b), I found the bottom part desperate and it's not exactly a good landing is it? Is there a trick to the start that I missed?

[Bonjoy]

Messiah?

I know the first bit of gear is a bit high up, but it's before the crux

I know a guy who fell of that ripped the cam and decked.

[Boredboy]

Lost world isn't to off piste and fits the bill perfectly. Font 7b with gear at your feet = E6 6C

Why the list?   

[Sloper]

Fiend is developing his trolling skills, he'll be up to E0 in about a year if he carries on making this sort of progress.

But what about Pearson's arete at B North with a reasonable side runner, or Gazebo Watusi, or indeed that thing to the left of the arete at Birch Tree Wall at B NOrth?

[Boredboy]

Fiend is developing his trolling skills

Uh huh 

[andy popp]

Lost World isn't off piste at all and bloomin great. Really memorable sequence.

I thought the gear on Adrenalin Rush was low and not that great but maybe modern cams are better.  That said it's pretty easy,  easier than High Noon.

The first half of Slab and Crack certainly used to be dangerous.  Haven't seen it in ages so can't picture how much difference pads would make. It would still feel pretty scary I imagine.

[bigtuboflard]

I'd not put Adrenaline Rush on either. Good gear at half height where the crack kinks slightly but the crack flares above that and people often get tempted to throw loads in there only for it to pop. That said I did it before pads. And it's technically pretty easy though felt quite bold (for me at least).


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[Falling Down]

Reticent is a great little challenge.

Belayed you on that on our first day out climbing together.   .