Author Topic: [Yorkshire][Cliff][Mag-Dick Rehash 7c]  (Read 754 times)

Offline ed brown

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[Yorkshire][Cliff][Mag-Dick Rehash 7c]
« on: March 10, 2011, 09:28:12 pm »
Ok sticking my head above the parapet I know but with all this poor weather 7b+/7c folks might be interested in this perma dry link-up. Remains dry even in driving rain if the westerlies are right.

The beautiful overhanging aręte lying between Magnum-Opus Direct and Dick Hymen on the Virgin starting with your bum on the ground at the two side pulls and climbing up past the pocket  to a wild slap with the right for the sloping ramp above. Matching this and getting established is non-trivial.

Sounds like Dick Hymen? Well it is almost. But why did Tim put in that horribly hard jump for the pocket when you can reach out to the layaway in the groove with your left and then make a lovely compressional slap into a slopey undercut, rearrange feet and pop for the pocket. All that is left is the aforementioned slap…

Done before? Undoubtedly.

Offline RichK

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Re: [Yorkshire][Cliff][Mag-Dick Rehash 7c]
« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2011, 09:36:35 pm »
 :thumbsup:
Frank put on top forty station, got on the Hollywood Freeway....headed north. Never could stand that dog.

Offline Pantontino

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Re: [Yorkshire][Cliff][Mag-Dick Rehash 7c]
« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2011, 09:42:23 am »
Done before? Undoubtedly.

Never say never, eh Ed. Good to hear that you are still getting out  - with the help of zimmer frame no doubt - these days.

Almscliff, the 'cliff that keeps on giving, even after all these years. I'll raise a toast to that.  :icon_beerchug:


Offline TomP

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Re: [Yorkshire][Cliff][Mag-Dick Rehash 7c]
« Reply #3 on: March 14, 2011, 03:03:31 pm »
Nice one Ed, sounds interesting. Glad to see a new (sort of) line at the Cliff. I've done DH lots of times but the thought had never occured that you can reach out right. I suppose this is because when you get the sidepull and crimp you just focus on the pocket and don't think about other possibilities. Do you reckon this makes DH an eliminate and yours the true problem? Strange how a different pair of eyes can interpret something totally differently.
How about linking Virgin Trav into it? Or even Virgin Trav to that thing of James's you repeated? Pointless but worth doing? Yes, that is an oxymoron.

Offline ed brown

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Re: [Yorkshire][Cliff][Mag-Dick Rehash 7c]
« Reply #4 on: March 16, 2011, 12:21:10 pm »
Hey Tom. Just thought this bit of rock needs a bit of bigging up. I can think of 6 7b+-7c+ problems crossing it, all on fairly skin friendly holds. AS Paul C put it "an Eggy Face for the year 2011...".

Now I've ticked the easy variation whats your beta for DH. RH sidepull LF heel hook, but where are the RF and LH before you pounce for the pocket?

Offline andy_e

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Re: [Yorkshire][Cliff][Mag-Dick Rehash 7c]
« Reply #5 on: March 16, 2011, 12:26:10 pm »
RF on a high smear, LH on an obvious sidepull thingy on the lip (I think).