[Three Nine]

hi all,

do people who've bouldered on the grit for some time reckon it has taught them stuff which has helped them get up limestone routes? Yes, it might be fun and have some intrinsic value etc., but as someone whose aspirations atm lie fairly exclusively in the domain of bolted lime routes, I wondered how much 'training' value people thought there was in it?

I'm being newly exposed to grit bouldering, and keep on being surprised by all the silly things I have to do, and how different it is from my normal diet of moves. Its all fairly entertaining, but the issue of 'relevance' keeps flitting through my mind.

interested to know thoughts anyway.

[psychomansam]

It'll make you a better climber while providing some of the best movement on rock, but i think the best thing for you would be to go home, campus and leave the rock to us.

 

[Three Nine]

Well that was unhelpful and sanctimonious, but then this is the internet!

[andy popp]

Its all fairly entertaining, but the issue of 'relevance' keeps flitting through my mind.

I think, given this statement, you got away pretty lightly.

[tomtom]

It's better training than drawing cocks on things..


Mods, can this be moved from power club to bouldering or STS or log?

[Three Nine]

Ok, well - in The Real Thing, Jerry says one of the things he likes about bouldering is that its 'such good training for routes'. Just wondered if people thought this applied to grit bouldering and limestone routes?

[Three Nine]

And why should it be removed or relocated? I'm not trying to suggest that grit bouldering is shit. Surely its allowed on here to suggest that for some people much of the value of bouldering comes from its training value? I think that this sentiment is probably shared by at least one of the mods.

My proclivities as concerns rock art are perhaps a separate issue.

[slackline]

And why should it be removed or relocated?

Because the Power Club sub-forum is for Power Club, not general bouldering/training questions.  Just take a look at all the other threads in this sub-forum, bar one joke they're all Power Club threads on the weeks training activities.

[Johnny Brown]

In my experience, grit bouldering is only second to yoga when training for limestone.

[Three Nine]

Oh - sorry i meant to post it in the main DT&I board.

[JohnM]

We were discussing this on our way to some grit bouldering yesterday.  I was saying that grit bouldering is fun but it's not going to help much with our goal of getting fit and strong for a trip to Spain at easter.  So in terms of cross over to steep limestone sport it probably has limited value and it is more beneficial doing stamina training on an indoor wall and steep more basic moves on a board in a power and PE capacity.  However, it is fun and its nice to leave the wall and get out into the winter sun occasionally and it is more beneficial than not going and sitting at home eating pies.  So bascially if grit bouldering makes up most of your training you will get spanked on long steep limestone. 

[shark]

Some of the grit traverses are quite good training for limestone.

[abarro81]

Max hangs, core, and/or aerocap/ARC after going out on the grit. Sorted.

[account_inactive]

Max hangs, core, and/or aerocap/ARC after going out on the grit. Sorted.

Plus some power endurance......

[Norton Sharley]

Some of the grit traverses limestone are quite good training for limestone grit traverses.

 

[SA Chris]

I think it also depends on what limestone you are training for. I wish I had actually done some gritstone climbing before being confronted with those slopey pockets and dishes in Ceuse for example. Coming from predominantly climbing on quartzite and blocky sandstone, where crimps and pinches are king, I had my arse sorely spanked.

[ghisino]

I think it also depends on what limestone you are training for. I wish I had actually done some gritstone climbing before being confronted with those slopey pockets and dishes in Ceuse for example. Coming from predominantly climbing on quartzite and blocky sandstone, where crimps and pinches are king, I had my arse sorely spanked.

my 2 cents is that it would have changed little.
in my experience the only thing that really prepares you for climbing in Ceuse is climbing in Ceuse.
been 6 times and during the first 3-4 days of each trip i've always been somehow spanked, even when i knew what to expect and trained for it...always been my strongest at the end of the trip, no matter how long...always getting better and better.
The ideal strategy for ticking hard would be to stay there all season.

...in comparison, this summer i went to FJ and had the opposite experience. Much quicker adaptation to the style, felt much closer to my "physical" limit, but in the end of the trip i was a bit sore. I think that if i could manage to stay longer than 2 consecutive weeks, i'd get nothing but a greater chance of injury...

[Ru]

When I had time to spend 6 months of the summer doing routes on the lime and 6 months bouldering on the grit the changeover always involved getting spanked for a couple of sessions.

When moving from the grit to the lime I wouldn't be aggressive enough and my fingers would hurt from crimping. I'd forget how to pull. When moving from lime to grit I wouldn't be able to smear and I'd try and pull my way up problems that revolved around friction and a bit of finesse.

So no, but that's the joy of it.

[Baron]

So no, but that's the joy of it.

Well said

[Drew]

and it is more beneficial than not going and sitting at home eating pies.

How did you know what I was doing?


In response to the OP, I'd say it was utterly useless.

[lagerstarfish]

If you want to have fun, boulder on grit.

If you only want to get better at routes on lime, bouldering on grit is not the best use of your time.

That'll be £75 please

[mrjonathanr]

It's the title, innit?