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Bird Brain, E7 6b. Nesscliffe (Read 4512 times)

Tommy

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Bird Brain, E7 6b. Nesscliffe
April 28, 2010, 08:56:30 am
Name: Bird Brain
Grade: E7 6b
Gear: Nuts, smallish cams and one small angle peg hand placed

Line: takes the wall bewteen 10 O'clock Saturday Morning and Tombola. Climb straight up on sandy pockets, to make crux moves just below the 2/3 height break with an assortment of poor gear below. Arrange bomber gear in break and then shuffle rightward to join the top crux of Tombola. Good sustained climbing (only 1 rest), which needs a bit more trafffic to settle the sandyness.

Harder than 7 O'clock and Tombola and Yukan II by some way. About the same as Gathering Sun.

Interestingly the true line on this wall is yet to be done. Where my route cops out right, you could finish direct on very small crimp in a very, very run out position!! Would be a total beast route - probably the hardest at Nesscliffe at a guess.

Johnny Brown

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#1 Re: Bird Brain, E7 6b. Nesscliffe
April 28, 2010, 09:09:51 am
Effort! Disappointed not to have made it over yet, looks like weather might crap out for this weekend.

Tommy

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#2 Re: Bird Brain, E7 6b. Nesscliffe
April 28, 2010, 11:30:30 am
I'm well for a trip any time you fancy. I've said the same to Nige. 

Fiend

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#3 Re: Bird Brain, E7 6b. Nesscliffe
April 28, 2010, 11:34:14 am
Big tings, nice one Tommy, although I am confused, this news report doesn't mention any 10m roof cracks, are you sure you've got the right line??

This is on the main back wall, right??

Pity it's no longer my neck of the woods, I got quite rad and syked for those two routes left of the Marlene corner.

Tommy

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#4 Re: Bird Brain, E7 6b. Nesscliffe
April 29, 2010, 11:20:37 pm
Yes, yes Fiend - I know. But that's so yesterday... No more 10m roof cracks to do now, so got to find something else to pass my obsession onto! That's if you haven't spotted any beastly crack up there in bonnie Scotland by any chance......?

We'll do an exchange - you come climbing at Nessie and I'll come an get cold/bitten North of the border. Deal?  ;D

SA Chris

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#5 Re: Bird Brain, E7 6b. Nesscliffe
April 30, 2010, 09:35:55 am
Tommy, as said before, you need to do North West Eliminate at Sheigra, and Burning Desire at Ardmair. Plus that remote thing of Simon Nadin's in the middle of nowhere.

Tommy

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#6 Re: Bird Brain, E7 6b. Nesscliffe
May 04, 2010, 10:10:12 pm
Chris, I'm all over it. Planning a trip! Do you live up that way? Any resources you can recommend for putting togther a tick list of doom for the trip?

SA Chris

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#7 Re: Bird Brain, E7 6b. Nesscliffe
May 05, 2010, 10:18:53 am
I'm in Aberdeen, so yes(ish), but limited time at the moment. Get hold of Richie Betts or Ian Taylor. I'm sure either of them would be up for some daftness. I think both have done BD, I saw Richie's war wounds anyway.

Both routes are in the SMC Northern Highlands North guide, and BD is in Garry Latter's Scottish Rock Guide Vol 2, but I don't think NWE is.

 

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