[chriss]

News, but only really of interest to a few. On 4.9.09 Peter Wycislck made the first ascent of Dont Pierdol, which is the sit down to The Wish at High Rocks & graded it 8a+ making it the hardest thing down this way.
I have robbed the info off of the Facebook group 'Southern Sandstone- The Hard Routes' so apologies if any facts/details are wrong.
Think there is a video floating about of him trying it on another thread.

[Jaspersharpe]

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11509.msg197842.html#msg197842

Nice.

[joel]

Good effort! 

An inspiring problem with lovely little crimps...

[Ben Read]

Yeah it was really good for him to get it done as he has been trying it for a while. A lot of strong people have tried it in the past.
Just need it to get a repeat so the grade can be confirmed but in my opinion theres no doubt of that.
There are still some projects out there to be had.
Note to anyone who is thinking of going to high Rocks though. Access is currently going through some rocky times. Check out UKC for more details but if you are thinking of going there and not paying then you may end up pushing it over the edge and climbing might get banned!

[chriss]

To save you having to visit nasty UKC the basic deal is climbers are jumping over the broken fence again, not paying & using chalk like paint.
Climbing is now £10 per day rather than £5 & the season ticket is £45 rather than £35.
Whilst I don't agree with the price hike High Rocks is on PRIVATE land so they can do what they like. Some staff have been verbally abused & people keep taking the piss, if climbers keep going the way they are we will get banned which would be a real shame for genuine lovers of the place.
The next BMC Sandstone meeting is this Sunday 11th at Bowles, so go have a rant/listen there.

[Jaspersharpe]

£10 is a fucking disgrace but jumping the fence and risking losing access altogether is unbelievably stupid.

[Jaspersharpe]

Just read the cocktalk thread. My God there are some fucking idiots on there. 

[chriss]

the full problem......

[i_a_coops]

It's had a repeat - and is clearly possible for shorter people too! (Well, ludicrously strong shorter people).

Don't Pierdol]
[url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BCKVeLyaGuk#ws]Don't Pierdol[/url]

What other projects are common knowledge then? The only ones I know of (that aren't routes) are the Infidel slab and the direct start to Chimaera...

[chriss]

Bit late buddy, check Significant repeats & non quality vids.......

[Jaspersharpe]

Re projects: It's a route rather than a problem (although now with enough pads....) but I believe my project next to The Beguiled at Eridge still hasn't been done. Seems ridiculous as I nearly did it almost 20 years ago and it's amazing but whenever I've asked the question it appears that no ones even tried it.
 

[i.munro]

I'd have to check to be sure but I think that's in the banned bit.
If so, let's hope nobody has tried it.

[chriss]

Yes it's been done at English 6c. I'm not sure if it's in the banned bit though.

[Jaspersharpe]

Oh it has? Excellent! I thought it was just outside the banned bit but as none of it was banned the last time I was there I can't be certain.

[Ben Read]

Hi Jasper,

I was the one who climbed the line to the right of the Beguiled (now called Judamondo) Its a great line and would love to know how you were trying it to see if we had the same ideas and what you thought the crux was! But if it was 20 years ago then not sure if you will still remember....
It is just outside the banned area so it is all good to climb on!

To reply to others about projects, there are loads! Many of them are at least english 6C but I know of at least 20 routes now that will go at some point. Boulder problems are rarer but there are a few good lines still to go and some really hard eliminates that have not been done that im aware of!

I think alot of people think that the sandstone is all dried up of routes but im predicting this summer it is going to get a bit of a new routes boom......

[Jaspersharpe]

Looking back through the mists of time......

I remember the start was a bit of laybacking on a sidepull/crack/ slot thing. Had to get really bunched up with a high LF on an edge, work LH to the top of the sidepull thing and then get a shit little pinch with RH. Move RF onto a smear which was nearly always wet (major reason I didn't do it) and then go again to a better pinch made of two shallow pockets. That was the crux for me (and Dave Turner who tried it a bit too) but it was still really sustained with tricky moves on pockets from there to the top although I can't remember any particular moves.

Does that sound like it?

Good effort by the way. Top quality route.

[Ben Read]

That sounds almpost exactly like my sequence.

I will try and upload a shot of me on it as I have some good photos of my sequence (just got to work out how to pu photos on this forum)

What other project lines were you trying back then? I have a few on the go at the moment but would be great to hear about any new ones!

[Ben Read]

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3668695&l=ac4b15e154&id=511489846

Here is the best I can do for now!