[Jeff25]

Going to Mallorca in a week and still not chosen my redpoint project. Anyone got any good ideas?

As its July I reckon we need somewhere high up in the mountains and not to far from the South west corner where well be staying. It also got to be in the shade for as much of the day as possible.

Im climbing better on walls/ slightly overhanging rather than the steeper stuff at the mo. so prefer this style.

im thinking C'an Nyic or Gorg Blau. Both fairly high and quite shady with some wind as well.

Anyone done any of the 7c+ - 8a+ routes here and got any recomendations? - Either at these crags or other good ones to have a go at?

Thanks

Oh and yea the crag needs to have some mid 7s for my partners project as well.

[n_man]

Fraguel is easily the best crag on the island. Heaps to go at of all the grades you are looking at. Not sure if its close to anywhere really as its a bit of a trek up the hillside with all those hairpin bends.

[Nike Air]

Going to Mallorca in a week and still not chosen my redpoint project. Anyone got any good ideas?

As its July I reckon we need somewhere high up in the mountains and not to far from the South west corner where well be staying. It also got to be in the shade for as much of the day as possible.

Im climbing better on walls/ slightly overhanging rather than the steeper stuff at the mo. so prefer this style.

im thinking C'an Nyic or Gorg Blau. Both fairly high and quite shady with some wind as well.

Anyone done any of the 7c+ - 8a+ routes here and got any recomendations? - Either at these crags or other good ones to have a go at?

Thanks

Oh and yea the crag needs to have some mid 7s for my partners project as well.

Hi,
try Les Perxes ==Faces north, plenty steep suff, a few brill mid 7s too.

I would not choose a route before you go either cause it may not inspire you when you see it. Just go off whats looks good when you get there.(but if I must recomend one route, its Pantano Boas at Fraguel, wicked tufa riding leads to some trickery up top-CLASS)

[Stu Littlefair]

Can't recommend Fraguel as a venue for a redpoint project at this time of year as the road up will be closed due to fire hazard, making it a long (and fairly arduous) walk-in.

[Jeff25]

thanks guys,

Yeah, fell in love with Fraguel when I saw it in the guide. Didnt know there were approach road issues though. 

As for Les Perxes, ideal positioning shade wise but my little arms might struggle on the gradient of the overhang.

Anyone had experince of S'estret main crag? (great shade wise) or great lines elsewhere?

[n_man]

Good knowledge Stu - still the best crag on the island for redpointing though!

[moose]

Hi,
try Les Perxes ==Faces north, plenty steep suff, a few brill mid 7s too.

Are there official access problems for the Les Perxes cave?  I tried to visit it last November and was stopped by an angry old farmer who followed my friend and me all the way to the Hairpin Wall - muttering and gesticulating all the while!

[Gus]

Les perxes would be my recommendation, not super high up but plenty of shade. "Toten Hosen" and others are amazing there. access wise, alot of the local Spanish crew were driving down to the crag, Raven Tor Style, but it's probably worth parking on the main road and walking down.

Have a good one!
Gus

[Jeff25]

thanks all for the input. especially news on access.

will try to persuade my partner that he can make it up Hodoo Gurus at Les Perxes despite their being loads of Tufa...

Any further news on access to Les Perxes would be great. Dont want to be going back for the redpoint just to be turned away...

Also going to check out Gorge Blau and C'an Nyic as these are quite high, good grade range and in the shade.

[moose]

Les perxes would be my recommendation... access wise... it's probably worth parking on the main road and walking down.
Gus

I had used the proper parking along the main road - the grouchy farmer turned us away when we tried to use a track down to the cave.  Mind you, I've not heard of anyone else having that problem so hopefully it was just a random incident - I just had the bad luck to be looking disreputable whilst he was feeding his donkeys!

[Jeff25]

I had used the proper parking along the main road - the grouchy farmer turned us away when we tried to use a track down to the cave.  Mind you, I've not heard of anyone else having that problem so hopefully it was just a random incident - I just had the bad luck to be looking disreputable whilst he was feeding his donkeys!
[/quote]

I usually approach the crag in shirt and tie... so should have no issue.

Will update here if there are any access issues.

[Jeff25]

Thanks all.

Mallorca was good but didnt finish my project unfortunately. Found the grades quite stiff compared with Chorro or maybe im just out of shape.

Was told by friend who lives in Mallorca and also confirmed by locals that Fraguel access isnt an issue as theres an alternative approach, with no diff to the walk in.

Had no issues at Les Perxes and we waved to a farmer as he drove by hanging from the face so he coulda stopped and said something.

If youre climbing well and want long overhanging North facing routes in the summmer then Gorg Blau is very well served and has some great lines. Its at Altitude and was one of the coolest places temp wise.
Ermita de Betlem was ok (only went to upper crag) but a bit poo (white rock so hard to onsight!) and grades and route descriptions in rockfax were all over the place.