UKBouldering.com

Satin -v6/Font 7a at Stanage Plantation (Read 4064 times)

joswald

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 24
  • Karma: +0/-2
Satin -v6/Font 7a at Stanage Plantation
March 31, 2009, 10:54:14 am
Has anyone done this problem? What sequence did you use?
I've been trying it the following way.
Jump on and grab the break and smear feet up higher.
Then when my feet are high enough I grab the undercut with my left hand and smear my feet far enough to the to allow myself the grab the farish righthand crimp. I then flag my left foot behind my right leg to prevent barndooring and reach out for the crimp just to the left with my right hand. I then readjust my feet and rock up onto the less reasonable (but lower down) crimp with my right foot. I then slowly ease my weight over the crimp and push,push push up with my right leg. I then slowly work my left foot up kicking up on smears below. I then reach the very shallow mono and tend to fall off.
How did you do it? Any advice? Such a good problem!
Thanks
James

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13453
  • Karma: +679/-67
  • Whut
There's no mystery to it - rock over rightwards onto the massive holds, press down with left fingertips, use whatever holds on the slab above to keep your balance and step onto the fingerholds.

Highball V4 btw.

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4009
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams

I use the leftmost of the three obvious crimps above the overlap and rockover as Fiend describes.

The shallow mono I take like the fella in this picture, pinching on the pebble:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=101559

Then I think you use another pebble to stand up for the break.

And I agree with Fiend, pretty soft for 7a, 6b+/6c probably more like it.

Good Luck, it is quality.


Jerry Morefat

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 140
  • Karma: +7/-0
hmm, I'll try and be a bit more helpful than Fiend. It sounds like you are going about it the right way. The crucial thing that I found, was when you reached the shallow mono with your right, was to try fully straighten and stand up on your right leg. As soon as you do so, you find yourself in balance. This may sound a bit obvious, but actually straightening your right leg can feel very insecure and this coupled with the height of the problem is perhaps what puts people off committing 100% to the move.

I have to agree with Fiend, it does feel easier than Font 7a, but saying that I know of a fair few people who climb harder than 7a and struggle on it. How hard it feels, probably comes down to how much it suits you I suppose, like a lot of boulder problems.

jonjon

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 149
  • Karma: +10/-2
I think 7a is reasonable, it's not that hard, but 6b+ isn't really in keeping with the rest of the grades in the area/ Peak.

And the trick is just rock up, get in balance, then keep cool for the pebbly move up.

Ironically Pressure Drop aint a deal harder.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13453
  • Karma: +679/-67
  • Whut
I think 7a is reasonable, it's not that hard, but 6b+ isn't really in keeping with the rest of the grades in the area/ Peak.

Wot like Honourary Caley or the 7a Slab @ Robin Hood's Stride?? :lol: Satin is committing not hard. I think we're all agreed it is very good though.

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4009
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
Quote

Wot like Honourary Caley or the 7a Slab @ Robin Hood's Stride?? :lol: Satin is committing not hard. I think we're all agreed it is very good though.

Definitely easier than HC & Crescent Slab.  Would it be fair to compare it with Nicotine Stain for difficulty?  It's a long time since I did Nicotine Stain.




Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13453
  • Karma: +679/-67
  • Whut
A wee bit harder than NS I think, although both had that air of committment about them. I liked NS too.

bigphil

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 241
  • Karma: +2/-0
Keen on both, but I've not done either.  Though that might be rectified soon.

aly

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 129
  • Karma: +6/-0

Ironically Pressure Drop aint a deal harder.


Is that the 'real' Pressure Drop or the thing everyone does thinking it's Pressure Drop?  Just asking as I've heard there is a problem a bit left of Satin that is a similar grade, but PD is further left again and is absolutely nails.  I'm happy to be corrected however  :shrug:

jonjon

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 149
  • Karma: +10/-2
the real one^

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal